techguy

If you turn the knob towards the + it will preload the fork more and make it slightly stiffer and vise a versa.

A carbon frame does not degrade in any form or way. The only way it will flex is if its cracked. As an average rider its highly unlikely that you can feel a frame flex "more than it did when it was new". These frames are tested to destruction in the development stage and when they do fail it's been through the equivelent as (eg) 100 000kms on the road... It is difficult (impossible) to gauge by riding it, you need the relevant stress gauges etc and compare it to a new frame out the mould...

Think about this - females have it much worse than males. They actually have to piss their pants or stop and de-bib. Have you ever seen a female cyclist squat on the pavement or start pen? Ihave seen this at Epic, the world cup in Pmb...the europeans have no inhibitations. I worked with a dutchman (from Holland) at the Epic a few years back and a dutch ladies team squatted at the back of our van and had a pee while talking to Robert who was standing in front of them...

The only special coating is on the shift cable itself, The main difference comes in the fact that the ends have better sealing to stop cr@p getting in thus increasing the lifespan of the cable set. At R220 for set, buy the whole lot!!!

Assuming you have the newer 105, which will use the external (Hollowtech 2, Shimano TM) BB then you can fit any Hollowtech 2 crankset to that. The old 105 system with the Octalink BB is generally a 109mm length and that will fit most frames, excluding the italian BB frames, of which there seem to be fewer and fewer these days as most manufacturers are going to the english thread...

Get hold of Neil Macdonald from team medscheme, he used to bring in the equinox stuff and he said to me a while ago he's still got some stock. Tubbies are nice, but the cost can be a bit hectic, if you consider the cheapest tubbies you can buy retail at +-R450 and the price goes up from there, whereas a top end clincher can go for +-R6-700. Also with tubbies to repair them is a hassle, it can be done, I've done it plenty, whereas a clincher you just change the tube @ an average of R50...

Also just check that you have an 11t lockring as a 12t lockring is bigger and doesn't allow the chain to sit properly on the sprocket and will cause the same symptoms as you have descibed...I doubt very much the teeth are bent...its nigh impossible to do...

There can be a very slight differnce in loads between the road and the stand, but its very rare that the difference is that big to cause a huge hiccup...

Have a look at www.specialized-sa.co.za they have some good saddles for ladies and tri...

I have also opened up the stitching on tubbies and repaired the tube and stitched it up again...

Thinners, parrafin, white spirits etc will all work just be careful of the decals, i've seen a new set of Eastons require new decals after the dude splashed thinners everywhere because he managed to get glue everywhere... However having said that i agree with desmondalie and leave the glue on as it gives a better bond...so long as theres no glue on the braking surfaces...

It is possible that its worn out, they generally have steel pivot pins that the aluminium parts move on and over time the pivots (and springs) do wear out. Also keep in mind that th RD is close to the ground and will always get dust on it thereby speeding up the process...

I've used grass to fill my tyre on more than one ocassion, take the tube out and fill the tyre wil grass to get home when you've used up all the tubes you have, its not permenant but it works...

Now,now . We all know that mineral oil can also be used to remove makeup unlike brake-fluid that just good for brakes and removing paint from your neightbours car . Haha, when I did my apprenticeship in motor mechanics, my journeyman told me a story of a collegue who put brake fluid on any spanner rash he got thru the day, it worked beautifully as an antiseptic and when he died from brake fluid poisoning he had no scars!

Hey Chucky, that bike's missing pedals! Haha good luck!

I know someone who lost their 20month old little girl to cancer, I wouldn't care what it took to ride in a cow suit, wether the people at the charity got paid or not, I would do what it took to raise money for that charity especially if my son was diagnosed with cancer...

How bout American Classic hubs? The problem is that 18 hole front hub... to order one seperatly may be a problem as that spoke count normally come as a wheelset... phone Doug Patterson, he does DT Swiss maybe he can help you out by ordering a hub for you...

I agree with JB, check first, but if there's no spacer in the fork then you can't increase travel, also if the bushings can take it. Normally you'll find that a fork that can go to 120mm will be at 120mm out of the factory. Like Jb says as well that extra 20mm of travel will affect the geometries of the frame, making the angles more "slack" and thus making the bike slower in turning at slow speed...

Those are also alu spacers on the fork...

Try letting all the air out of both chambers and repump them, top side first, to the reccomended pressures. If its stuck halfway thru the travel its more likely an air chamber problem than the damper side. I had it recently with a new reba on crater cruise the customers fork became very stiff and lost half the travel. Cajees may be right, if a fork sits in the shop for two years the air seals can deteriorate and air can move between the positive and negative chambers and efectivley "locking" the fork as there is more air in the negative chamber than there should be...

Can like to be pretty...Watching The Paris Tours race on super sport last night I saw one of the AG2r riders on one...

True' date=' but the topic says XT Cassette and you do get a CS-M770 which is a cassette. Here is the complete list of M775 items from Shimano: BL-M775 Disc Brake Lever BR-M775 Disc Brake FH-M775 Rear Freehub HB-M775 Front Hub ST-M775 Dual Control Lever for Disc Brake WH-M775 Deore XT Disc Brake Wheels 2wh33ls, if you want to get the details of any given part, just go to http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/index.jsp and put in the product code.[/quote'] I agree the topic says cassette, but the question is the difference between 770 and 775, there is a CS-M770 cassette but no CS-M775 cassette which is the crux of the question...

The post mount on the fork will still need an adapter and longer bolts, the post to post Avid adapter to fit 185mm (avid don't do 180mm rotors) is basically a spacer that moves the caliper out. The rear will also need an adapter but be carefull cuz there is a difference between front and rear adapters for the 185mm rotors. the most common mount on the rear is still I.S. so you shouldn't have a problem there.