techguy

Haha welcome to the trade, been down that road, found loopholes, bob and weave, bob and weave...

It was worth a shot, I was not aware that they had lost/dropped Magura, but they never really carried spares for the forks anyway...

Check out the Magura website there's a recall on the Durin forks...

info@cyclesafrica.co.za they are the Magura Agents...

if you use builders foam then throw the wheels away, have you tried to clean that stuff off something? Run flats rely on the strength of the side walls of the tyre, so more material = more weight...

EPO can cause the blood to thicken (more red blood cells and the like) thus the heart is under pressure to pump the blood around. But the report says the dude had arythmia a couple years back, so who knows? Unfortunetly, and I don't mean this in a nasty way at all, but if its your time then it's your time to go...RIP

Draw a sraight line between the centr of the BB and the centre of the pedal axle and what do you get? A straight line! that's the line the force will follow, same as a standard crank...

A chain in relative good condition shouldn't break unless it is forced in some way that it is not designed to move in, otherwise if it hasn't been joined properly, namley the Shimano system with the replacement pins...I have ridden the same chain (in an experiment) for over two years and it didn't fail suddenly, the sprockets etc caused so much grief in shifting long before there was any sign of the chain failing.

If you are using the IS mount then yes you can use the front caliper on the rear with a 140 rotor, there is printing on the caliper stating that the caliper is 160F/140R...if its a post mount then it won't be a problem either, just get the adapter braket for a 140 rotor...

I've been running my XTR as a dual set up for 4years now so Sram isn't the first to think of it' date=' they were the first to market it in a groupset...The new XTR will have a similar setup Its hard for me as I like both groupsets, both have their positives and negatives...[/quote'] How have you been running dual,chainrings in inner and middle or middle and outer. What size chainrings are you using? I have been running the outer and middle and I'm using the standard 32/44 rings with a 11-32 casette...

I've been running my XTR as a dual set up for 4years now so Sram isn't the first to think of it' date=' they were the first to market it in a groupset...The new XTR will have a similar setup Its hard for me as I like both groupsets, both have their positives and negatives...[/quote'] Thning is that XTR dual doesn't give you the chainring flexibility unless you use the after market stuff. The debate is about XX and the new XX has a proprietry BCD bein 120mm so NO other rings will fit, whereas the current XTR can be fitted with SLX rings if need be.

And the stupid chain rings. When will they wake up and make them plain like Truvativ or FSA. You mean like the FSA 3 bolt ones? or the Sram/Truvativ 120 BCD ones that will only work on the XX cranks? As for the rubbing, I've had my XTR cranks for 5 years now and I have never rubbed them, they have stone hits but no rubbing...

Here's XTR's wake up...

I've been running my XTR as a dual set up for 4years now so Sram isn't the first to think of it, they were the first to market it in a groupset...The new XTR will have a similar setup Its hard for me as I like both groupsets, both have their positives and negatives...

The best are the original ones

Is it a local Omega? or the british version? If its a local version then I think you should know the guys doing the brand went under about 5 years ago so you're looking at a fairly old bike...

You need the Shimano Wheels, As far as I know Shimano are one of the few companies doing the 15mm thru axle hubs at the moment. whether the discs are centre lock or 6-bolt doesn't matter, its that front axle that will determine the wheelset

I agree that the FS is the fastest and will get you out of situations that you don't know how you got into them...But you're like me Started on a rigid bike and learnt how to shred that then moved onto a HT then FS and by far the FS is the better bike, Problem I've seen tho is that the majority of guys haven't progressed, they go straight to a FS and don't know their or their bike's abilities.

Oh well glad we could help even tho it's not really what you wanted to hear...

Maybe Steve can post a couple of "spy" pics for us?

Rigid! learn to ride! it teaches you skill

The mechanic is doff if he thinks that's not serious! normally those wear marks will start by the bush where it rubs which is a good 10-15mm below the dust wipers, so once it becomes visible above the dust wipers there's a problem!