jatho

Yeah using stans.

Jees then maybe I've just had bad luck. What do you guys inflate your tyres to?

Yup, snakeskin.

I put a brand new set of Racing Ralphs on my Cannondale about 6 months ago, I've been riding my single speed a lot more so the Ralphs haven't seen much use, I recon around 600km. Anyway, I got a front puncture about 2 months ago at Modders, didn't think much of it, did a race this weekend which had a few rocky sections and punctured the front, fixed it carried on, then punctured the back, fixed it carried on but it had a slow leak but got to the finish after bombing it a couple of times. Got home and thought I'd find the slow leak and fix it which I did, inflated the tyre to around 2.5 bar to check for leaks and noticed the sealant coming out of tiny holes all over the top of the tyres between the tread, not in any specific order sort of riddled across the tyre so its not linked to the tyre design. I have Vredesteins on my SS have done loads of mileage on them even did Van Gaalens on it and haven't had a single puncture, my previous bike with Conti's same thing, had no punctures. Its got me thinking, have I just been unlucky or are Racing Ralphs just not good tyres? The back tyre is basically toast at this point so I need to replace it but I'm hesitant to replace it with another Ralph. I inflate my tyres to about 2 bar, its on a hardtail and I weigh around 73kg. Would like some feedback from the clever hubbers out there.

Completely agree especially at Modders, my true debate is that its a rigid which is OK in the daytime but not so OK at night

I seriously doubt they'll get to 500 riders, you'd probably be able to do a line entry.

I'm definitely doing it, still debating if I must do it on the SS or geared MTB.

Vernon Koekemoer....... because chicks dig him!

It actually depends on the wheel and the spacing, you shouldn't need the spacer but if you have say 2 sets of wheels and the gearing is right on one but not the other then you'd be able to correct it with a spacer.

That's a pretty darn decent price but like meentb said you need the 11spd freebody and that's assuming they make one for your hub.

This thread is all boring now, I miss Wyatt and Someguy. I'm gonna start a Bianchi is better than Pina thread!

Long answer: read all these posts, short answer: just don't ride if there's thunder!

But surely you can call that office, place the order, have the discount applied, do an EFT and have the order shipped? I doubt they'd expect you to physically go to their office.

Couldn't you just order something from them over the phone and they send you the invoice with the 20% discount applied and ship the item to you? Or am I missing something?

Agree, he irritates the crap out of me, his pranks seriously aren't funny anymore and the moronic callers that call in after the pranks with their fake laughs praising him are even more irritating.

I'd rather face the stampede than do that tunnel

That's weird, they're usually really good with their comms and Mark Wolff is one hardcore IM athlete and always willing to answer questions. Follow them on Facebook they post frequently about their product and nutrition in general, his blog is also worth checking out.

Well you lose the FD, Shifter, Cable & 1 Chainring, depending on what you're taking off I recon there's a saving of between 400gms to 700gms, but I think the shift to 1x10 or 1x11 is more about the simplicity and not really the weight, that's added bonus.

I agree with copperhead, I've got a similar issue although is its manageable, I sized my chain with the old smaller sized cassette (put chain on largest ring at the back without routing it through the RD, ran it over the chain ring and then cut it with 2 links to spare, I used 4 to be safe) when I shift up to the largest sprocket on the GL the RD hanger body momentarily touches the cassette ever so slightly, I'll play with it this weekend but think if my chain had 2 more links it would be spot on. Pop the bike on a work stand and do some slow shifts onto the big sprocket at the back and keep an eye on the RD hanger to see if it clears, you may need to adjust the screw that Flowta has pointed out. Bear in mind as well that when you have have such big jumps between sprocket sizes on the cassette shifting isn't exactly going to be crisp and you'll need to edge it on easily between shifts.

That rocks

Be careful when using the tyre levers to put the tyre back onto the rim, its common for people to pinch the tube when doing this and when they re inflate the rim the tube has a puncture. Maybe take the tube out, inflate it and run it through a bucket of water to locate the puncture, could either be your repair job wasn't done correctly or you've pinched the tube when re installing or as other hubbers have pointed out, there may be something in the tyre still that is puncturing it. Either way, try persevere, its painful but will teach you what to look out for and you'll be sorted going forward, if you're stuck on the side of the road one day, its not so easy to take it to the LBS.

Darn, I'm gonna miss his random snide remarks

Build something like Training Peaks that integrates with your app and you'll have a winner, you'd then be able to charge for the app, but like most have said, its quite a broad scope with tons of other good apps already out there with millions of followers, its a tall ask to beat that. A nice integrated API for parsing the ride data onto all the current apps (Strava, Endomondo, Training Peaks, Garmin etc...) would also be a big plus, would save a lot of people a lot of hassles.

Sad that some hubbers handle posts like this with such a poor attitude, the time it took most of you to ridicule the OP could easily have been spent helping the guy! We all started out here but it seems that the know it all's would rather spend their time picking on someone new to the forum than actually helping.... Not everyone has a high post count on thehub with a big brand name bike that apparently makes them a specialist in the industry!

Hooray