Sawdust

You also get a rubbery type epoxy, which is black and flexible. Once repaired a road tyre with it. Think it is called "Wondafix car" made by pratley.

Not sure if anyone has mentioned it, but make sure the valve is at the top or on the side when using a bomb. When the valve is at the bottom, so is the majority of the latex solution which will remove the latex from suspension and 'dry' it out.

My training partner had to pull in next to me a few times on a ride, so that I could shift the front derailleur for him. He wasn't wearing gloves and could not get a proper grip to twist the shifter. It should be ok with gloves and a new cable.

You will get it next week. Mine was shipped on 3rd March and arrived 2 days ago.

I had 2 orders in the last 2 months with Royal Mail. The 1t one was 1 day short of 3 weeks and the 2nd one I picked up yesterday took 3.5 weeks.

You could do that, but most of us are weight concious. The idea of the design is that the cable does not whiplash and hit you on the knuckels. That is why the cable will always be slightly shorter than the condute.

A piece of 25mm condute, 3-4mm thick cable folded in half so it fits inside the tube. Cast some lead on the tips of the cable ends. Drill a 10mm hole into a block of wood and use that to cast the lead. Insert the folded cable into the tube and fit a bolt through on close to the end of the tube to keep the cable inside. It is important to allow enough space between the bolt and the tube tip for the lead ends. The bolt also prevents the lead ends to go inside too deep, keeping the cable inside and to prevent it from falling out the bottom. It is actually easier to make the cable first and then cut the tube to length. Also fit a small piece of wire on the cable bend to prevent it from sliding past the bolt when you are swinging the whip. The wife also wanted one, but I refused. If your attacker takes this thing off you, you might end up bleeding quite a bit. If don't have the confidence to defend yourself with a weapon, don't carry one.

On the older Stans bottles there used to be a patent number. Now google this number and it will take you to Patent Storm. The recipe is on there.

I have a few of these lying around the house and in the car. It is light and takes around 30 mins to make one. It will really hurt. All the weight is in the head so it fits in your shirt pocket and doesn't fall out. You can make any length you need. The wip section slides out when you swing it. Long enough to even keep a chasing dog at bay. Only hit them if you really have to. This will draw blood.

Guess it is marketing driven. If you haven't tried it, you wouldn't know any better. Years ago I ordered a bike which was specced with a Fox shoc. When the bike arrived it had a RS Reba on. I was not happy at all. Eventually took the bike. Will never buy anything else now than a RS. I had a good experience and will be hard pushed to change.

As of 1st of March I've been running on my own mix for 2 years now. Use it on 3 bikes. No problems so far. Even cheaper than Joes. I've had no corrosion and only 2 punctures which were caused by cuts.

I wouldn't ride on that side of the valley anymore without a gun. A real pity since there are great trails there. I hope this incident will be one of the last. Did any of the boys get hurt?

I have ridden an Anthem for 4 years. Nothing wrong with the suspension. It is a pain to service and clean all those bearings once the bike gets older. Now on a Morewood with single pivot and I am convinced the ride is better. No bobbing at all but with the Anthem I always had some at high speed.

Sheez man!! We will either need proof of this or at least your address for those helpline okes..

I am often amazed at how light some racers are. Some of us are limited by our height (or length )so the weight will never come down to that level. So I was wondering, what is the height and weight of the average cyclist? I'll go first: 1.82m weighing 73kg (naked)

You are light enough. Spend the extra moola now and get the SID.

Plugs often don't work well on a sidewall cut. The sidewall also flexes a lot which is why is might not hold. Go to a motor bike repair shop and have them fit a decent patch on the inside of the tyre.

I once made that mistake by shortening a riser bar, only to find the shifters hit the handle bar afterwards. I had to use shorter grips to overcome the issue. Luckily it was el-cheapo bars.

I'm not sure on the current length, but I'll probably go a bit wider. I have dropped the saddle around 3mm since that photo and for XC I normally go down another 3mm.

I figured I'd probably only need a 20mm rise, but if I go for 40mm rise, I can remove a spacer. Will that work?

It's a large.

I only have this photo with me at the moment.

I currently have a flat bar on the Zula and I am pretty useless on drop-offs. I was thinking of fitting a riser bar to help with that. I also have too many spacers below the stem and was therefore thinking of going with 40mm rise, so I can maybe remove a spacer or 2 at the same time. I need a 25.4mm diameter bar to fit my current stem. Will a 40mm riser bar look/work ok on a Zula? No bar-ends of course.

Thanks, but its a HE

My Zula, now 3 weeks old and not so clean anymore.