TheoG

I'm trying my best to ignore it, but this one take the cake. In what fn universe is cycling shoes called pedals? https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/shoes/566922/look-pedals-new

Thanks Matt, if I think of any suggestions I will get back to you, but at the moment, like you said, the only way I also see is to unfortunately vet each and every ad .... 🙈

2 years ago the PO still sort of function, now not so much ...

Now don't you come spoil my fun with the truth and the facts ... 🤪. Remove however many spokes you want, if it is still able to suspend the hub more or less where its supposed to be, I would term that as an incomplete wheel ... 😂

Well done Frosty, that's an awesome time !!!

Now that we back at comments on ads (see I got it right @Jono), this thread will self delete in: 5s, 4s, 3s, 2s ....

Hmmm .... , that never occurred to me, but now that you mention it .... 🤪🙈

ja ja ....☺️

True, you got a point there ....

Nope, that's just fine ☺️, since its adding to the description.

I get it, its not going to help to bitch about it. Its just frustrating to search for something specific, you need to look all over and not only in the "correct" place ....

A hoop is a k@k word for a rim 😂

I'm getting increasingly irritated with "WHEEL" adds that are placed under "RIMS" and vice versa (to a lesser extend): A wheel without a tyre is still a "COMPLETE WHEEL" !!!! (a lot adds like this) A rim without a hub & spokes is a "RIM" not a wheel (a few adds like this) If it contain a rim, hub & spokes its a WHEEL, if its only a rim (no hub and spokes) its a RIM. How difficult is that to comprehend? Anyone reading this and you need to place a rim or wheel add in future, PLEASE get it right .... 🙈🤪☺️ @Matt is there anything you guys can do to force guys to post adds in the correct category? In the past I did sent PM's requesting to fix, put I'm just over it, there are way too many for wheels & rims, in fact, I think the majority of RIM adds are actually complete wheels !!!

You 100% correct, I had a bit of a brain fart there .... 🙈

It mostly depend on you axle width (end cap to end cap), in your case either std (142mm) or maybe boost (148mm). What is the offset on your current 32T ring and can you back pedal without the chain coming off in the biggest cog at the back? If yes, stick to the same offset, if no increase the offset with the 3mm. alternatively follow these guidelines. 135 & 142 axle spacing - ZERO offset 148 (boost) - 3mm offset 6mm offset is for super boost, I'm pretty sure you don't have that on your Scott.

I'm searching for a long time now and no luck yet 😞. Will keep looking though .... I'm with you on the 2022 frame, slacker head angle, closer to a trail bike, but I will take one model older also hands down IF I can find one. There was a 999 RSL 2017 on the hub about 2 years ago, I wasted to much time and it was sold from under my nose ... 😥. Since then there were one or two others but nothing in a L or XL frame 🙈.

Awesome bike ! I would love to get my hands on one of those frames or even a 2017 - 2021 model frame to upgrade my 2013 RM Element but they are as scarce as chicken teeth 😥. If I may ask where did you get hold of this bike?

Not sure why this was the case for you, maybe because it would be tricky to assemble since the gaps (3mm each side) needs to be closed and you would require more than 2 hands to do it.

I have a Rapidé Tigre and also both a 142 and 148 wheels and I can interchange them without even adjusting the caliper position, just saying ... Even my gearing work without adjusting the derailleur, both is Shimano 12 speed. Also have a Rocky Mountain Element 970 RSL (Carbon frame), and same thing, I can swap the 142 & 148 without adjusting anything. Just maybe I'm lucky, but I don't think so. If you look at the sizes in detail, it is supposed to work.

And the rotor spacing stays spot on for both std & boost .... 🤪 And that is the case for any frame, provided that it allow enough flex without stressing it.

Because the caliper is on the frame it also move out by 3mm, hence it work, and the alignment stays the same. The rotor also "effectively" move out by 3mm. Only its position relative to the endcap stays the same, which is exactly what you want.

This is why it work to fit a boost (148mm) wheel into a std (142mm) frame. The distance between the rotor and the edge of the end-cap remain the same regardless if its boost or std, hence the rotor will still align 100% with the brake caliper position. Just make 100% sure your frame is flexible enough so that minimal stress is caused due to "forcing it open" by 3mm a side (6mm in total), and as pointed out already, you will need a boost thru axle (longer). Edit: Not a good idea to try and do it on your fork however, its way to stiff to accommodate the flex of 10mm, the left pictures is only for illustration purpose.

Seen it before, still very funny and probably true .... 🙈

Same here, cant stop "monitoring things" .... 🤪😂

Yes definitely need a longer thru axle.