Scott roy

Thanks for all the info. I’m trying to find an Ai offset crank, if I do I will probably do the build over. Anyone know if my rockshox monarch XX will fit? I believe it should

Unfortunately I didn’t have my normal stuff with me so I made a mix with sunlight and water and rinsed it off throughly

Would a Sram XX1 crank work? I do have on lying around

Hi thanks for all the info. I’m between selling the bike as is and getting a large or doing the frame switch. Cannondale parts can be problematic as specially on the older ones so since it looks like it won’t just be as simple as taking the parts of one frame and putting them on the other so maybe selling and buying a large is for the best

Hi all. I currently have a 2016 cannondale scalpel si team in size M. My problem is that I require a L, I have found a size L high mod on the hub here however it is a 2018 model and I am not 100% sure if the rear wheel and fork will fit it. Any opinions on whether it will fit or not will be appreciated as I don’t want to buy a frame that won’t work for me. here is my scalpel and the frame I am considering

I would definitely recommend the lazer Z1/blade

I have seen this guy. Was a bit suspicious but still enquired about a frame he had up for sale. I told him that I wanted to pay through bikehub pay and he immediately refused and then went dark…

I’ll never use anything else but an XX1 chain again on my Sram drivetrain My current XX1 chain is just passed 0.5 and I’ve got about 4300km on it.

I have some friends who are sponsored by cst, they run patrols and I’m very impressed when watching them. My next set of tyres is definitely going to be cst

I would consider a maxis ardent 2.4 front and ikon 2.2 rear. I’m currently running that setup and and I find that the maxxis ardent lasts about 4000/4500km and the ikon about 2000/2500km. I do about 65% of my riding on tar so I’m not complaining. Hope this helps

Thanks. I think I’m going to have to go a diet of chocolate and ice cream because I eat plenary but just don’t gain weight????

I do max it out on steep climbs although I do try my hardest not to. I train with Amric most of the time so we have a program. I’ve been trying since last year to get a climbing strategy that works well with me and I was recommended recently to get a smaller chainring but then I rode a bike with a 34t and yes it climbs a lot better but I felt like I lost my top end

Unfortunately I don’t have any to lose...I am just short of 6 foot and weigh 60kg

I do about 4.1W/kg

I generally only go to the 50t on very steep gravel climbs and normally only above half way up

I’m fairly fit I have no trouble with group rides and such but when I’m training the guys who I train with who are seriously tough I get behind on the climbs and then have to really put the hammer down to catch up.

I already have. It’s sitting at just over 9kg

I don’t really go above 40km/h on flats but even on the slightest downhills I do 45-50km/h

I do a fair amount of climbing so like on a 30-40km ride I climb 500-1000m. Yes I do ride wtf a lot also mooikloof wall

I have considered going back to 2x but my frame is 1x specific

I’m from Pretoria. I ride out in zwavelspoort side

Thanks. That’s what I’ve been wondering if it’s better to climb faster and then go a bit slower on flats or downhills or climb even slower but blast flats

Hi all. Ever since I rebuilt my bike with lighter components I’ve felt it just wants to go faster and faster. I’m currently running a 36t chainring with Sram xx1 10-50t cassette. I have a hard time on serious climbs so I want to go to a smaller chainring like a 34t but I am afraid of loosing out on my top speed. then on flats my 36t feels to small and I want a 38t chainring so I’m wondering should I go the 38t direction and maybe get out the saddle more on climbs or the 34t option and loose my top speed a bit? I’ve also thaught of going oval but I am not to sure about it’s benefits and loses