NINER_boy

IMO This applies exactly to 26" bikes as well. Not one design is the same in geometry and tube lengths. So, you will (and had to) play around on your 26" bike to get your fit right, Fit is to make us be comfortable on a rigid and fixed system, so therefore you change saddle height, fore aft position, stem length and handlebar width. My advice would be to RIDE before you buy. Happy fitting

Grondpad You need to shop around more. Some links... http://www.rushsportscycling.com/Store/Buy/Rockshox/Reba-29er-RLT-Fork.aspx http://www.rushsportscycling.com/Store/Buy/Rockshox/Reba-29er-XX-Fork.aspx And there are some Fox's as well, but more expensive. More important, what frame are you building it onto, and what is the manufacturers recommendations??? Different frames are designed around different Front suspension travel lengths. Steps to take... Check what the manufacturer recommendation is for front suspension travel. Decide on a brand (RockShox, Fox, DT Swiss) Find out how easy it is to service and maintain the shock (do you have to send send it away like with DT Swiss, or can well trained mechs service and replace seals for you). These forks come in 100mm, 120mm and 140mm with options to "reduce" travel. EG, I have a 100mm Reba XX, running at 80mm on my SS 29er bike. Frame design recommendation will be the telling factor, and if not adhered to, your bike's front might stand "tall" and flop when you turn, or visa versa... Happy building!!!

+1 on the wheels!!!

Toxic IMO, you can do a lot more with the 50k. There are other bikes and with that budget, you should be able to go XX and a decent set of wheels!!! Shop around. My suggestions: Mike's Bikes, Greenside Eagle Canyon Cycles, Fourways Happy shopping

Are you sitting in front OR will she be sitting in front...???

Reason for "new" bikes on 2x10... All the new groupsets come in the 2x10 configuration. The main thing is, to have a 1:1.5 ratio on the front chainrings, and also to opt for the smaller sizes (26x39) on 29" bike. Happy Hoopin

Hey Bra Anyone shouting at me like that, is BOUND to be ignored!!! LoL's anyway at the slanting... Still will kick ALL our asses, hands down, any day of the week. Oh yes, and that is in the H20, road and running dept, AND that by a guy, probably DOUBLE our Hubbers ave age... Think again... Like Iron's signature reads; "listen to the old guys, they did not get old by being stupid..."

Hey guys Something from my wishlist...

flymango Where do you get hold of ANY Vermarc clothing??? I can shop in jhb area

Caerus If you could spend R1500 on a pair of Anatomics, then you can fork out R19oo for a pair of Assos T FI Mille S5 Bibs. It is the most comfortable bib on the road and in the bush, and will last at LEAST twice as long as the Anatomic. For my money, twice the return on your investment, excluding the hours of additional comfort... Happy shopping

Sorry guys, That was me...

I'll take her now, ALL THE WAY

A little something from the HIT charts...

k

k

+1

Hey guys IMO, wondering what he makes of the Epic, is like a stranger coming to you and the first thing they as is; "Hey, how much did your bike cost???" Well, I think it is bad manners, and my answer to this is usually; "None of your business..."

Welcome in 2012 dude... :rolleyes: Happy to have you here

26” / 27.5” / 29” Facts, Debates and Opinions (in this case, mine...) Hubbers, this piece is written to all of us, “above average” riders, and NOT referring to the PRO’s (the guys with sponsorship and who gets paid to ride) I call us “above average”, as I believe that anyone that rides a bike with the passion and dedication, as we all do, IMO, is an above average human being!!! Here some of my views RE the 26” / 27.5” / 29” debate 26” Stronger; Less lateral flex and forces (obvious) F Lighter; Well, depend on your build preference D Less material to make O Faster; Well, less inertia to roll F/D/O 27.5” I’ll get there... 29” “Weaker”; More lateral flex due to radius D/O I do not agree, STRONG rims available “Heavier”; Well, more material to make product F/D Light strong stuff available How much heavier is heavy??? I see the 360 Life guys 29”HT weigh in at 8.7kg F “Slower”; More inertia to roll... D/O Here comes the bun fight!!! If you are sprinting / climbing against the likes of Stander, Sauser, George and Evans, maybe then does an additional 500g make a difference? If your performance determines your position / pay check / sponsor, then do the fewer less grams count!!! Us as mere mortals, who ride for the love and passion, should we get bogged down by shaving grams and spending THOUSANDS of R’s??? Maybe not??? Now, the 27.5” Stronger; In theory stronger than 29”. Less lateral flex and forces (obvious) In theory weaker than 26”. More lateral flex and forces (obvious) Lighter; In theory lighter than 29”. Less material In theory heavier than 26”. More material Faster; In theory faster than 29”. Less inertia to roll In theory slower than 26”. More inertia to roll FACT: Nino could not get his fit right on a 29”, but wanted the added advantage of a bigger wheel. FACT: 5 years ago 29” wheels also had a “cult” followingFACT: We do not have a GREAT range and variety of 29” tyres available in SA yet, and 29” bikes have been on the go for (well mainstream) 4 years, and now we want to go for another size...??? FACT: Top end riders make a living / earn money / live off cycling; therefore they will have the right tools for a job at hand. OPINION: I think that the cycling industry saw what 29” did for the industry, and wanted another “injection” like that. Maybe a year or two to soon...??? OPINION: Maybe the following setup, in UTOPIA for us all: 26” for downhill (FS) and serious XC (HT 26” choice option) 27.5” for XC and trail (HT / FS choice option for trail) 29” for trail, marathon and endurance (HT / FS) Guys, IMO, horses for courses... Heavier / lighter than the next, maybe should be a factor if you compete against the pro’s (and not break your b@&&5 and the bank) to shed 700g on your bike. Lose the 15kg you carry around your gut (as mentioned the above average cyclist, like us all), and save your cash for a bike holiday somewhere... For wheel size choice, ride what you want / like (if your life doesn’t depend on it...) For cycling; Ride for the love of riding Live to ride, and ride to live... That’s me, over and out on this topic

Oh yes, what I meant to add, I take a No1 before a ride, shed around 300g, and save myself a couple of thousand R's upgrades!!!

Hey Hubbers I run a the following: NINER RIP9 Large XX Groupset RockShox REBA Ti dual air Thomson bolt on kit Wheels: RIM Stan's FLOW HUB Hope PRO II evo Conti Xking (regular, not the protection, they were not available at the time) Absolutely BOMB Proof setup Bike and main components are 3years old now, and still going like a Boeing!!! Bike weighs 12.8kg For me, to lower the weight, it will cost more that the weights worth in gold. On the other hand, I am a 100kg guy, and will easily; Brake something lighter anyway Save a LOT of money by shaving 10kg from myself... I am shaving and shaving... (the weight that is... )

And then, the 2012 model... Funny, price doesn't show on the pic. R47 500 (as per web info)

Oh yes, how dare I forget... :drool:

Would your bud consider this bike? With some spare change... I would NOT MIND THAT AT ALL!!!

+1 +1 +1 +1 +1 +1 on that Baby!!! :drool: Rocky Mountain