NINER_boy

Me thinks it is about TITS... No not those ones!!! Time In The Saddle!!! Maybe a recommended amount of Hrs in the saddle might be "more accurate". Keep me posted

Check this out for the "hole" in the gearing when you play with FRONT ratios outside 1 x 1.5... https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/111975-hole-in-my-2x9-gearing/page__hl__hole+in+__fromsearch__1 Referring to doc with the 42/26 ratio...

Hi Kandui Sounds like the legs would take a pounding on that day, even with you on a motorcycle. Keep em going on the Q's. Remember the "stroke length" IS longer, and you will feel it when pushing like that. I fell a "better workout" on the quads as well after a hard Qring ride. Just stick it out, and in a week or so you will not look back. Rotorbike recommends a 200km adaptation phase. Check the attached document. Happy Hoopin Q-Ring_adaption_setupguide.pdf

PS, I say again... WARNING, you might NEVER ride your other bike again!!!

Some pics

All depends on the budget, You can get a Rotor crank or even a SRAM X0 crank (the 3x10 cranks will work, they have a BCD of 104mm, what you need for dedicated SS chain-rings). RE the fork, that will be your preference. The rigid is REALLY hardcore SS-ers vs. slightly more compliant / comfortable 100mm shocks. My advice on chains, go straight for a 1/8" chain and sprockets. PS, look for the ones with the wide foot!!! It will help stop the sprocket from eating into the aluminum freebody. Go for a 32T chainring, and a selection of 2-3 sprocets, 17,18,19. Chain-tensioner, DaBomb is quite good. That should do for now. WARNING: You might not ride your other bike again...

Here my latest acquisition for ye old SS-bike...

It's really quick, but use your bike as a guinea-pig. You will not need to adjust the rear deralleur, unless is was set up wrong from the start. Just a small "lift" in the FR, that should be it. Please report back on your feelings about the Q rings. Something I have noticed: Climbing and grinding the dead spot is smaller. When powering on, on the flats, I find that a SLIGHT lower cadence brings better results. That said, I am a spinner of around 95-100rpm's (I know because that is how I gauge my SS speeding). Lower cadence & (slightly) less effort results in the same or slightly higher speed on the flats. Thus, more efficient pedal-stroke. Have fun

More fit instructions Chainset fit pics.pdf

You will enjoy them! RE your chain question, no you don't need to shorten your chain. Just fit EXACTLY as the manufacturers specify: pics attached You might have to lift your FD slightly. Install so that there is around a 1mm gap between your FR and the HIGHEST point (curve) of the Q ring. NOTE, your chain might "catch" (on and off) on the FD lower middle plate when pedaling in gears 9 and 10 on the smaller chainring. This is due to the oval trajectory of the chain. Happy hoopin XX Chain fit instructions.pdf

Ranga, Go for the ZTR-Flow rims. Maybe 45g heavier per rim, but free-ride type rims. REALLY strong

Hi Kandui The XX BCD is much different from the XTR, so you will need to decide witch ones to get and then buy for that system. Here is a website where I got my cranks and Q rings from... http://www.velotechs...co.uk/index.asp Sram XX BCD is 120/80mm XTR BCD is 110/74mm

Hi Kandui Especially on 29ers, the bigger chainrings need more torque to turn. The recommended size for 29ers is 26/39 and smaller. I have recently moved over to Rotor crank and Qrings on my Niner RIP9, size 25/38. My bike feels like a nimble little beast. Yes the Q rings make a difference, not acceleration but more on the power-drive part. Yes my gears are all "shorter" and I top out at around 55km/h, but then again, how much of your time do you spend at these speeds. Go smaller, you will not regret it. PS, this is probably the ONLY instance where going smaller is beneficial... Happy Hoopin

This dude must have smoked some of the "special" stuff down there in J-Bay...

Hi there http://www.buycycle.co.za/buyparts/shifters-mtb/sram-en-2-3/sram-shifter-x4-trigger-set-8sp-rear-index-front-sram.html A complete set, NEW shifters @ R289. Was the wait and frustration worth that to you???

PICHAS PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sounds like a solid PIMP ride you are building!!! I wish you a lot of happy miles dude

Mike's Bikes Greenside JHB 0118888868 Jason is the Wheel-man

+1 on all the comments above. Front chainring configurations should be in the region of 1 / 1.5. IE, 26/39 (26*1.5=39) On a 29er, you need more power to get going, so the recommendation for F chain-ring ratios are 26/39 or 27/40. Anything bigger than that you WILL STRUGGLE!!!!!! Like mentioned on top by Azonic, riding a 30, IT IS TOO BIG!!!! If you want to ride a 42 big blade, you will need the smaller chain-ring to be 28, or the ratios will be to big between jumps when you change gears on the cassette. Remember, we ride MTB,'s and the jump in tooth count is not a 1+1+1+1+1 like on "most" roadbike configurations. Jumps are sometimes 2 - 3 teeth at a go, so with your chainring ratios out, you will feel one gear is too big and the next too small. Get your chain-ring ratios sorted for the bike you ride, and 2x10 will be the best move you made since you started using the internet for information research!!! Happy hooping

Those pics AFTER your ride???? Must have been on tar then, ... cheater Good looking bike!!! Welcome to the 29er-verse!! You're gonna love it!!!

Yip, I have the KASK K10, and the first one that doesn't look like a mushroom on my head. Really comfy lid!!! PS, still on special at Buycycle

Hi there Hubbers I love my SportTraks, but have a question or two about equipment monitoring; I have 2x Bikes loaded, with sub loaded components I want to track and monitor usage of Upon importing into SportTraks, the additional equipment shows up separately from the bikes I loaded them to, and thus no accumulation of data to the components. Please can you assist, that I can select a bike, and all the loaded components allocate automatically to the bike chosen? Looking forward to hear from you experienced SportTraks users I found it!!!

Dude, its like asking: "Why do car manufacturers still make sedans, if everybody is driving SUV's???"...

Is it the appropriate chain, eg. 7spd, 8spd, 9spd??? Could be an easy / cheap fix. Hope you get it sorted PS, take to your LBS and have them check the hanger. Visually impossible to inspect... Even small deviations make a big difference

No Lycra, but NOT my SSWC2012 outfit!!! Will save that one for September! 34x19 will be my gear of choice, gear ratio to ride and not gear to ride in... Looking forward to grind some gears and beers with you SS-guys

Delamitaion of the tyre tread from the carcass. Change it ASAP, it will go. "SOME" tyre suppliers could exchange the tyre, bot most will void the warranty due to use of sealant. But try anyway, if the tyre is as new as I understand. Good luck