NINER_boy

Oh, I see the link has been posted.. http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer/mountain-bike Here you go for your own calculations

Hi Neg I am a big guy as well (95-100kg) Currently I am running like this; 1.7bar F 1.9bar R and never hit through to the rim. Once the tyres are sealed, they should stay like that, sealed. Also depends on your type of tyre (some have more volume, if you look from the rim out to the rolling surface). Be warned of tyre burping and the carcass coming off the rim at low pressures. How did the tyre mount the rim before you started the tubeless setup? What tyre and rim are you using? Because some tyre beads and rims just work better...

Hi guys Also had the "freezing" issue... Had a nerve wrecking moment or two, because my Garmin is about two weeks old Leave it for a while, after the update. The Garmin will restart by itself, and whoilla... Update done

Hey guys Did mine now in one go. Took probably about 5min in total... Really easy and cool. PS, had a polar bike computer for 2years, NEVER got an update of a day old. GARMIN, I am a converted ambassador!!!!

Hi there NEG It sounds like its leaking between the valve and the tape. Re tape your rim. Then, take a drill, and a wood bit (I think a 6mm is the one), and on a SLOW speed, "cut) a new hole in the tape for the valve. That should do the trick.

With the bigger jump 26 / 42 the "hole" in between gears will be just too big. In the one you will spin and the next you will need to upshift. 1x1.5 is the best combo for sizes in F shifting.

Anyone???

Anyone???

Go for a set of Flow rims. Only 70g a rim heavier, but freeride type rim. BOMBPROOF!!!!!!! On a set of Hope hubs... The shizzzz

Hi there Hubbers I read a thread about the SportsTrack software use with Garmin edge500. Now, I cannot find it again, and I need to ask some user questions, and DO NOT want to be skelled and threads merged... Please point me in the right direction

Hi NSBB The Racing Ralphs are the snakeskin protection versions, and are GREAT!!! The regular versions cut and leak. I have had these for a year now and logged over 4000km on the set, with ONLY 1puncture!!!! It was a "pendoring" that I pulled out at home after a ride and plugged. Otherwise, NEVER let me down, ever!!! Fits like a glove and inflated with a footpump (on a set of Stan's rims). Great tyres. The Conti's are good to, but in the protection versions. Regular tyres cut and leak easily.

It all depends on what you want from it and your general type and style of riding... I have both 29" dual and HT. I love my HT (SS) for acceleration and the short course type stuff. I love my dual (Niner RIP9) for the comfort and plush ride it gives me on longer day in the saddle type rides. If you have to chose one, chose on your general type and style of riding; Aggressive, fast accelerate and decelerate; HT More marathon style and long hrs clocked; dual

Here's mine...

Niner RIP9 dual suspension 120mm F&R 2x10 Momsen Twen9AL 80mm travel F SS

Guys I bet you this F^@6-nut is one of those FAT idiots looking for a parking RIGHT in front of the gym, with his BIG SUV... He has no ambition and cannot partake in any kind of sport besides weekend armchair commenting on how wrong this and how bad that. Also, he will be one of those guys with the whole family on quad bikes on the weekend. Well, should I mention the noise and air-pollution from all of that... Needless to say how that stuff up the karma of nature Cyclists have full right to the road The problem is the absence of law enforcement looking after all of us, yes all of us, motorists, taxi-drivers and cyclists included. Poor sod, he thinks cycling started with the Armstrong era, well how misinformed the poor sod. I really feel sorry for people with built up anger issues like that, probably not a happy chap at ALL, not at home, work or play. Poor sod That is my 5c

That means your brake was pulled with no rotor in between pads. Remove the pads, do the piston push thing, and re fit the pads. This should sort that issue. You aslo get an Avid bleed block that can squeeze in between the pads and do the necessary piston push, if you have the block. Hope this helps and sorts the issue

Hi there With the caliper loosened, take an elastic band, wrap it around the brake lever and the handlebar, TIGHT, so the brake "pulls". Slowly, with small turns tighten the caliper, slowly... Now, with it close to being tight, remove the elastic band and inspect for rubbing. If it is still rubbing, push the caliper by hand and re tighten. I know it can be a pain, but keep on trying.

Hi Goodbadugly I have a set of Stan's ZTR Flow rims laced to Hope Pro II evo hubs. BOMBPROOF, same setup as some free-ride wheelsets. My set came in at 1750g, and strong!!! Did I mention BOMBPROOF???

Here is my trip today... Take with my BlackBerry Game farm between Potch and Parys, trails that we frequent, close to the Vredefort Dome

Mmmaybe, but I'm not telling Oh yes, maybe they don't sell 29ers because the guys at SW thinks a bike is a bike

I love riding past the golf course, and as the guys T up, freewheel... That expression is priceless, because they think I am watching them play Well...

If you buy a bike from a shop like Sportsmans Warehouse, you qualify under the following: Someone who buys a TV from a blind man Someone who buys Hi Def audio equipment from a deaf man Eating steak at Fish-Aways Come now, really...

No, stock standard stuff. The same F hub for a 20mm / 15mm / QR setup!!! I wish the other manufacturers catch on soon. LOVE my sets, I have 2 sets of Hope hubs = 0min of maintenance or trouble!!! A set on my SS 29" Momsen and anoter on my NINER RIP9 (2x10). REALLY, a fit and forget item...

Here's mine... Saddle form my SS 29er Momsen, READY for SSWC2012!!! Garmin for both my bikes, to get READY for SSWC2012 of course...

PS, the difference in weight in between a Flow rim and old generation Arch is 70g, so well...