nox1111

as with any other bike - if you maintain it properly it will be a good bike. The only problem with buying a more expensive secondhand bike is that maintenance - as with all toys - the more expensive the toy, the more expensive the parts.

https://silverbacklab.com/bike-model/mountainbikes/stride-29-md-2/ Ask your bikeshop to do you a deal for R5k - as good as you'll get for a new bike!

Sh*#balls race nerves already set in for me also. First race in a long time. Did an early morning Plumber today and actually had a semi decent run. Not fast, but controlled at least. If I can do that again on raceday I'll be happy. Bike's in one piece, didn't crash or die.

I've got one on my enduro bike. I'm struggling to get used to it - supposed to prevent tjommie pressure, but my sit bones are feeling it!

Am I missing the part you've actually put a Rand number to your budget? That would make a huge difference. Then: Are you dead set on Carbon or would top-end alloy be cool?

Mmmm, I don't know. Feels like a hoax, even though the new climb st is absolutely fantastic, I don't think it cuts actual climbing time to saaltjie. My times on both is within 2mins of one another to the top.

I've had the same issue previously and only realized after getting the wheels built. Tubeless and all ready to ride...so my deepest empahthy. My Fox 36 came with a broken cable guide from CRC - I fought with them for a while and they ended up sending me a new billet one. I reckon stand your ground and ask at least for the adapters for free.

Yassie, just checked all the POV's from top to bottom all stages - moerdyk, in for a lot of time in the hurtbox. Fitness at 1/10 is not really a good place to start...

Flip, seems I'm also in - haven't raced an enduro in a while. Looking forward along with serious nerves...

If anyone is interested, I'm going to be selling my Slade Trail frame with accompanying Corse Carbon wheelset.

My Slade trail - custom build kit, custom paint job (shabby paint job unfortunately) with fashionable enduuuuro wheelsize mashup 27.5" rear, 29" front.

That cover should be on neatly- it is essentially 'external internal routing', cables hidden without the need for internal fishing for cables. For ease of maintenance and installation - basic two screw undo to access cables. Makes sense to me. I've had a long frustrating day working on my bike looking for the flippen cables without luck. Taking a break/beer and then starting again.

As far as I know and remember; Trek, similar to Silverback offer limited lifetime warranties on their frames. The fine print says - 'reasonable lifetime of a bicycle with a single owner'. And that, sadly enough is becoming shorter periods of time. So if I'm not mistaken, it is around 5 years warranty period on these in the case of alloy frames. Anyhow, just my 5c: The Stratos AL5 is not a trail bike per se. It started life as an XC race bike as was dialed over to the 'light trail' category to make it more fun to ride for the weekend warrior and more forgiving on technical rides than an XC race bike. There's a whole lot of serious tech in the design of the frame - completely asymmetric to deal with different forces, pedaling, braking etc. Sure the part list is similar, and at this price point not that exciting ( or light), but the AL5 frame is the exact same frame you'll get on the AL1. So you are getting a great frame at an entry level price. Easy to upgrade parts in the long run also. In my opinion, anyone not a serious racer, should be riding something like this.

1. Measure steerer tube properly before cutting. Measure three times before cutting. Include top cap, spacers stem and headset cap in that measurement and then take around 5mm off that overall length to make sure that it is good to go. 2. As the other guys said - don't do a big race or day out on a freshly serviced or newly built bike. Ride it at least once before to settle in and suss out issues.

1. In general - it is better to do-over than to overdo. 2. I have gotten a bearing press stuck in a frame after pressing in chainstay bearings... and I had to get in a second opinion to come up with a plan to get it out. There's a lesson in there - make sure the press removes to the outside, not the inside of the stays. 3. After getting silicon sealant on my rear rotor, there's only one way to get it off (and I tried everything else first). Get a small plate, douse brake pads in around a shot of spirits and burn them with the brake surface up. Wait for flame to go out completely (this is important - otherwise you will end up without facial hair). And redo. Redo another three or four times. You'll hear them boil and see the bubbles and eventually they burn silent. Then, wait to cool, sand lightly with 350grit and wipe off dust with a paper towel. Then also burn your rotor brake surface 2 or 3 times - until it is clean - you can actually see the contaminant burn off. Fit and go (don't touch the brake surfaces again with your fingers) - best braking I've ever had! 3B. Apparently silicon sealant makes a moeruva good lubricant. 4. Soldering cut cable ends (I hear superglue works just as well and is easier). 5. I still (to the irritation of my colleagues and riding partners) fit my tyres wrong way around pretty often... but can not tell the difference on the trail tbh, so I just leave them that way. 6. Emergency valve core in your spares can save you a long walk home. 7. Building solid & straight wheels are actually easy - the 5th time around. 8. Calculating spoke lengths for said wheel is not in my list of talents.

If that's aggressive, then you really don't want to see me peeved. Aggressive, not really. Annoyed and entertained most definitely. So, honest mistake would go something like this: Ad: Wanted: Bikerack. Offended/confused buyer guy: How'd you know I wanted one?! Sure do. (thinking to himself) Also the correct phrasing would have been: "Do you want a bikerack?", but that's OK, I won't point out the obvious here. Ad details: Looking for one or two bikeracks to go on my roofrack. Needs to be in good condition. Offended/confused buyer guy: This must be one of those question ads like Verimark does; "looking for one or two bikeracks to go on your roofrack?" "Needs to be in good condition?" Offended/confused buyer guy: Sure do and yes please! (thinking to himself) This guy is not good at writing ads, I can see why he missed inserting price. And I have to ask him for an actual photo of the items, stock images is just not representative of actual condition... Listen; I am just having fun with this now. But surely that mistake is made because the guy did not spend more than 10secs to look at the ad.

And one of my favourites when I post a wanted ad: And then this pearler of a conversation:

I'm of the opinion that most brand name brakes will be good if set up correctly. I've, up to recently, ridden with the new Deore M6000's and they were great - not a minute worth of hassle. Good modulation, plenty of power. I did however manage to get silicone sealant on my rotor which caused me hours of trouble - and then I figured out how to clean it properly and back to good braking. I moved on to new Zees and they are better yes - but not by an arm's length. Decent brakes are one thing - but you have to match them to good pads and good quality rotors. I've even ridden the new Acera, Altus or Alivio's (they look very alike if you don't pay them too much attention) on a demo ebike and they were very good -considering they are dirt cheap.

Please post some pics when you get it!

Jy al jou bike gaan ry? nope - ekt noggie

Ito value - you won't beat the Stratos AL5 for bang for your bucks. That is the identical frame used on the AL1 - the top end Alloy machine that costs around R40k. This has new school geometry (very similar to the Stratos SBC bikes) and fit for purpose parts. It is internal dropper post ready and if you're not going to be rallying enduro stages, there's nothing wrong with that fork. The Skyrim is not even close to the same type of bike... different categories

Good looking enough to leave on my car permanently?

Anyone us this ugly duckling that can give me some feedback? Seems like good value for a two-bike carrier. How does bikes actually secure to the upright part? Easy to use? Solid quality? Any security - bike lock etc? How does it look folded - semi neat? Thanks

Day made: https://www.pinkbike.com/news/must-watch-reece-wallace-goes-huge-in-utah-for-flight-path.html

any pics - sounds rad?