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No the wavey washer sits against the chainring (spider) then fit the spacer and then fit the rubber seal. torque the crank to specified torque setting (40Nm) I think (sitting in my office not near the bike) and you should be sorted.
If the crank tightens up or doesn't spin at the correct torque with all the hardware correctly fitted, then you have another problem with the press fit bearings not being correct or not fitted properly.
Your crank should spin freely after you tightened everything up
You will note in the picture that the "Non Drive side" bearing is different from the drive side as it has a boss on the inner race which faces inside the BB. I've seen many fitted incorrectly by LBS, either facing out or bearings fitted on opposite sides.
Thanks, I think the best thing will be I take it to a TREK dealer, because I have checked it and made sure everything is fitted correctly and it is still tightening up.
I think you might me right regarding the non drive side bearing. I noticed that it looked different than the drive side, and that it has a little step down but it is facing outward. You are saying that it should be facing inward correct? Ill take a pic of it and PM it to you to help me out
Oops my bad!!!! the wavey washer goes on first and the 2.0mm spacer on second then the rubber seal
Yip so the spacer sits right against the chainring.
I have just checked it again with and without the spacer.
Without the spacer I can tighten the crank nicely but thenb the chainring touches the chainstay
With the spacer I cannot tighten the crank to the suggested setting but then it does not touch the chainstay... If I tighten it all the way the crank does not move...
I'm assuming the OP bike is a TREK Superfly, if he is running a 2 X 10 with 39 big ring on a GXP crank then that gap looks about right.
The only spacer you will need is the 2.0mm spacer on the chainring side which slides on first, then the wavy washer and then the rubber seal. The spacer has nothing to do with moving the crank over it is there to increase the presuure on the wavy washer which holds the seal against the bearing keeping out dirt.
Trust me I rode my superfly without the spacer for months and the cranks were not loose and the position of the chain ring is the same now that I have installed the spacer.
Good to know that it looks the same on your bike as well. When I took the crank off there was no spacer in there, just the rubber seal thingy.
Thanks for the help
I agree with the shops, the spacing is alright. The press fit BB needs a tapered/stepped spacer to run on the inner race of the BB bearing. I use one when I run a 36 tooth on my DS frame.
Chain suck should never be a problem, as the guide/protector plate should be enough to keep the chain from sticking in the small ring.
On a 34 tooth have 3-4 mm clearance, on the 36 its 1-2mm, I run a 1.5mm stepped shim to prevent the 36 from grinding on the plate. Don't forget as your suspension squats, the chain stay moves away from the chain ring. Your clearance looks like a 3-4mm.
Clearance without the spacer is 1mm if it is that much... Where do you get these tapered spacers you are referring to?
I service my own bike, so I know when to change chains etc. This excessive wear was caused by all the mud riding the last few months.
I had to change the chain now as well as the jockey wheels which was completely shot, so I just want ahead and changed everything.
Ill check the spacing without the spacer again, but if its 1mm its a lot...
Okay so I have found the spacer and installed it on the Drive side to move my chainline out a bit, but now I have a new problem.
If I tighten the Crank the suggested torque setting it barely moves. If I loosen it a bit it works nicely, but I am not sure how safe this is.
There is no play in the crank with the slightly loosened setting. Am I looking for trouble or should I be okay?
Kevin Evans @kevinevansracin 6m
-@AbsaCapeEpic my intention was to pass outcasts who get in the way. Not to gain 6 places. Apologies for upsetting anyone.
How many outcasts was there in front of him? I did not see any on the video... And it was a long line of riders, no one was getting in the way
I think the bigger problem here is how the team reacted. They would obviously have seen this footage last night already but all over twitter they complain about double standards and they got screwed for cutting 5 metres.
Looking at the footage it is clear as day that he gained an advantage. If they came out and said, **** sorry guys Kevin had a brainfart and we accept the penalty, this thread would have been over on page 1 already...
also remember it includes all your accommodation and meals for the three days as well
Lol yeah I know it does look like an o - rings but its actually hard plastic. If you were to use rubber there it would not serve any purpose as you would actually compress it when you tighten the crank.
Haha ya I figured that much. Now just to find a shop who have those spacers for me. What are they called?
What frame is that lapa? You can measure the bb shell size , pity, I'm in CPT i could give you some spacers, I've got enough for your next 10 builds too... B)
Its a Trek Superfly with the BB95 as per the link I posted earlier.
As you can see in this internet pic, the TREK frame does not have the exterior BB cups
http://www.switchbackmb.com/contentimages/Trek_Superfly_2.jpg
sorry posted the wrong link
http://www.mymountain.com.au/p/5434285/trek-bb95-press-fit-bottom-bracket-sram-gxp.html
How will I be able to see if that one spacer is in there or not?
Where will these GXP spacers fit into this setup?
http://www.mymountain.com.au/p/5433802/trek-bb95-press-fit-bottom-bracket-shimano.html
Two shops have had a look at it and told me its fine which really irritates me!!!
Cant see if this is BB30 or GXP. If GXP do you have any spacers between the drive side bearing cup and the frame?
It is GXP. I am not sure if there is a spacer in there and I specifically asked my LBS to check the spacing of the crank as I was concerned about it, so I would be pretty pissed off if its not right.
Where do I get the spacers and what is the ideal spacing?
It runs very close to the chain stay. I've had it checked out twice before and both time I've been told that its fine like that. It still concerns me that there is nearly no clearance between the chainring and chain stay.
Im doing sani in May month and wouldn't want to go there with an old stuffed up drivetrain...
Does anybody know which jockey wheels I need to get for a X0 derailleur. I also see that the truvativ replacements chainring sets are sold with the spider. Is it really necessary to get a new spider as well?
I would say about 3500 - 4000km
Just how stuffed is my drivetrain?
in Technical Q&A
Posted
Just some feedback regarding this.
I went to Cyclelab this morning and spoke to Andrew Mclean regarding the issue. The bikeshop which installed the bearings on my bike pressed the non drive side bearing in wrong way round and then conveniently left out the spacer and the wavy washer in order for everything to work.
Andrew's technician quickly sorted everything out and installed the crank correctly with the spacers and washers and he didn't charge me a cent for the job.
The clearance between my chainstay and chainring is a lot better now as well.
I just want to say thanks to Andrew and his team at cycle lab for helping me out even though they did not cause any of the problems to start with. Great service like that means that I will definitely use them in the future!!!