JTK

if you can stretch your budget a little then you can get a decent bike second hand. One that will tick all the boxes. Those steel frame makro jobbies are really a bad idea. it will frustrate you and put you off biking. I bought myself as a first proper mtb a Trek 26r with rim brakes for R900. Everything was working 100% on the bike and I still have it in the family. Love the frame. Still the most fun I had on a mtb. ps: if you do buy a "makro" bike then please make sure it is not FS. front fork is OK but the suspension linkages on these are so heavy and sloppy it will cause you more issues than fun

I have been alive a little longer than that though Or are they even more clever and saying "lifetime of frame"? That would really make it nice a grey

perhaps a 5y transferable warranty is more desirable than a limited lifetime one?

I think this is a little more clever than we give them credit for. Suppliers know that frames get used till they break. However most people that can afford to buy new will sell the bike and buy a new one within 5y. Thus they actually only need to worry about the first 5y on average. Saying lifetime is more a gimmic in my opinion

So... which bikes actually transfers warrantee after first owner? I seem to recall somewhere Cannondale did this but dont know for sure...

Where can one get the best deal nowadays for an Ant+ dongle... thanks

Tickr on special for today at Takealot for R699 for those in the market....

power is going to be my pick...

too true. but you know what... given the fact that I was helped by measuring my ass without any indication that they had the pre-requisit for me buying a saddle... I think I may just go back there and buy one

so my ass needs a 143 saddle... go figure. all my saddles other than my wife's are smaller... shopping tomorrow!

:D

cool. there is one in centurion. will visit

road bike for trianer. dont road bike though...

Anyone knows of a good place to have a proper measurement done for saddle fitment? Closest to Centurion... Thanks!

I would imagine it the case. But I have checked the geometry and all seems 100% legit. I have however never gone for a professional "saddle setup" measuring my pelvic bones etc.. Perhaps a good idea...

perhaps off topic a little... but how do you guys handle your rear ends? I zwift and my ass really gets very sore. Riding mtb in general it isnt as much an issue, but in the trainer it really gets sore. I have even tried cycling with liv saddles. best at the moment seems to be a giant liv. But I still get sore and rarely go further than an hour in...

I went for a ride some months ago and had my fenix on my handle bar and strap on my chest. Left home and my first bit of ride is a long steep downhill which I needless to say always gun it down.. At the bottom my fenix almost (if it could out loud it would have) told me I was busy dying... heart rate was 220+... stopped to try and find out what was up. turns out the wrist sensor and strap got mixed up and it was probably picking up handle bar vibration along with the strap count. Hasnt happened again though.. so yes. Almost shat myself but soon enough realised I was just fine

Perhaps some 9sp road cassettes and chains. Am sure there is some old stock around

So I have been Zwifting a little. I use both my fenix and Zwift to track the activity. I connect zwift to garmin connect to upload. Why do I do both? Because the swift activity tracking has other date like elevation tracking etc which the garmin does not track indoors. And Garming has some fitness lated activity it tracks that the zwift tracket does not. However I now always have two activities uploaded. I am also still not sure if it is doubling up on certain stats? What do you guys do?

Thought i would post my findings here for the guys that want to try this setup as well. . I want to use a mtb frame because i have one laying around. I realised from research the a mtb and or long cage derailer is not usable on the flux. Well this is not true. With a compromise up front you are set to go. If you play with the chain lenth and be prepared to have a 1x setup then you are able to make it work. I set up a 1x9 36 at the back with no issues on either a 42 and 36 chainring. At the correct chainlength the derailer will move past the leg before high enough up to touch it... This is a long cage shadow derailer btw....

1x works.. as long as you adjust chain length to pull derailer in front of the leg at right sprocket

OK. seems 1x anything is possible. You make the chain length to pull the derailer in front of the foot on the larger sprockets. Rather put it this way. 1x9 works... I must just decide chainring before chain length adjustment... Am sure 1x10 should work the same way. 1x11 may just also work as long as the large chainring is not to severe

If I had to go the road frame route. How would I bridge the size diffs? I am 175 and she around 166. So probably a 53cm?

Have given this some thought. The only issue I face with a MTB vs Road frame is really the compatibility between sizing. Let me explain.. I want my wife to make use of the trainer as well. It is, to me anyways (and not really knowing road frames) much easier to make the MTB frame compatible between us as what it appears to be making a road frame? Or am I mistaken. About 10cm height diffs between us...

HI guys, not knowing anything about road bikes and not wanting to learn by buying... Lets say I have a MTB specific frame. Any issues runniing a road casette derailer on there? Question stems from wanting to use a mtb frame on my tacxflux. From what I gather on the net... up to 9speed you can use mtb shifters for road kit. lLease assist if I am mistaken. If this is the case. then I can put a 9spd 11/28 shimano casette and road derailer on a mtb frame and run it with a mtb front crank using perhaps the top two rings only to account for obvious chain length issues... All this whiles using 9spd shifter front and back off a mtb? Am I missing the boat? and then also, where can I find a functional set of 9spd cassette/derailer to use perhaps?