Jagermeister

I believe the flammable liquid is lighter fluid, also butane gas is used for seating 4x4 tyres. I worry about the safety as well, but also concerned about the effects fire has on such a thin MTB tyre (nowhere close to the thickness of a 4x4 tyre!)

I have also ridden in bunches who disobey traffic rules, needless to say I now choose my riding bunch carefully. We all have drivers' licenses, so we are all aware of the rules - not so? Yes the general standard of raod users has deteriorated, and I find myself more on my MTB instead of my road bike. In my humble opinion,there's the law, and then there's Survival. Take the correct line and oobey the law, set an example for everyone to follow. Up to you guys... Cheers,

One medium Boerie roll today, with a generous smothering of tomato Pesto baby! Leftovers from National Braai day!

Yeah Karma, I guess it just depends on the width of your foot

I think you're on the money saying it's a setup issue. I would also check the shoes, but two things in particular: 1. the position where the pedal axle lies under the foot (should be under the ball of your foot) if not will cause a type of 'stud pressure' known by soccer players. 2. the shoes may be too tight and disrupt the blood flow into your toes. I now use the Olympic MTB shoes - they are excellent value for money and have a large toe-box so I can move my toes around during a ride. Their 3 velcro straps also let you adjust the pressure along the arch of your foot. Good luck, Cheers

P.S. I also use Rudy Project Racing Red lenses all the time, because I believe these are excellent lenses.

Hi Guys, My eyes do suffer from fatigue on long rides .5 hours and above, although this is directly related to the exertion that I am under i.e. on high intensity rides my eyes suffer early, and on low exertion rides I can go for longer before my eyes become strained. Also due to a previous medical injury, I suffer from Dyplopia (Double Vision) although in my case this is minor (about 5%). WHen fatigue sets in, so does the Dbl Vision which can make it very tricky negotiating obstacles. I also think Bianchi's comment above is relevant "scan more than just the area in front of you". I studied some SWAT training years ago and they recommend different techniques for surveying an area - two techniques would be useful here: 1. Sweep your vision constantly, from left-to-right 2. Change your vision from Far to Near in a straight line, i.e. from your front wheel to the horizon in front of you. In my experience these techniques do help to an extent, a bit like working on a computer screen can be tolerated for longer periods, if you look out the window at a far-away focal point. Good luck!

farrelc, I also bought me a Scott 940 today - my old Scott 26" broke after 7 years. So not upset at all because I got excellent service from the old one. I rode the 940 briefly down the road - feels huge but I'm hoping to adapt! Left the 940 at the shop to fit tubeless tyres and will collect in the morning - That's why I can't sleep - too excited!! Respect...

Hairy, I really enjoyed this video thanks!I think this may be the reason Led Zeppelin wrote rock music! Cheers,

Just my 10c worth - I started as a Roadie some 23 years ago, now mainly MTB. The size of a bicycle frame (road or MTB) has more to do with the inside leg measurement, and less to do with your height. I'm 1.82m tall but inner leg measures 92cm. My advice is get sized properly by the 'old' guy in the LBS i.e. not the youngster. Let them measure your inside leg, and let that be the basis of the frame size. You may still be a 'Large' frame though - depending on the manufacturer this can vary anywhere from 19 inches to 21 inches. So by changing bike brands the frame (although a Large) may differ quite a lot. Cheers,

hey Delgado, HHeeeellll Yeah, I also carry a spydeco Native - it's in my pocket every day, since I bought it in 1998. I have a few others like a Leatherman Super Tool and a Kershaw pocket knife, but the Spyderco does 99% of the work. Heck I use this knife almots every day. Also in 1998 I used to have a Spyderco Civilian (big hooked blade) in the right-hand pocket and a smaller Spyderco Endura. These knives saved my bacon one night when a guy tried to mug me on the pavement. I pulled both knives out and he decided to high-tail it outta there. Sadly both these knives were stolen off me one night when I was involved in a serious motor accident (probably while I was being resuscitated). So I bought the Native which I carry permanently. So I guess for me it's the stories that accompany the knives, in addition to their use-value. I'm a real fan of Spyderco, made in Golden, Colorado, USA, Earth.

HI Kiwi, I found your website by accident, and have a number of questions. Seems most customers are happy with Mosso. I cracked my Scott 'Boulder' HT frame after 6-7 years of service. The Scott frame was a 20" (now this range is called the 'Aspect') which was more of a recreational frameset. Apparently I should have been riding a 'Scale' frame which is more race-oriented. Finding a 26" frame these days is quite a tall order! So looking at your Mosso 652XC Pro 18" Frame, I could build my parts across and possibly get an awesome Dual-Susser! My parts are Mavic Cross-Ride wheels, SLX Disc brakes, Rock Shox Reba dual air, SRAM X-7 gears with a LX Crank. I plan to buy a new Ritchey bar, seat pillar & stem because my Scott parts are also 6-7 years old! Question relating to the frame size - I see your largest is 18" but this is obviously 2" short of my HT size. I have heard that sizing between HT & Dual Suss can vary, obviously I am interested to get your advice here. My height is 180cm and my inside leg seam is 92cm. I weigh 80Kg. Relating to the warranty, which I saw is 2 years: Does this warranty depend on regular servicing and if so, what is the cost of an annual Rear Shock service / link / bushes / bearings, or does this depend on the actual wear & tear i.e. service interval might be longer than a year, only if bushes / bearings are worn? I ride only on Sundays at the moment - average ride varies between 60-100Km. Mostly distance on tar & dirt road with a bit of Braamfontein Spruit here & there. Then also who would carry out the repairs / service? Does the rear shock have a remote lever which can be mounted on the handle bar? A general question, not knowing this Mosso brand at all (please excuse my ignorance, the Mosso website was blocked by the Antivirus program, so could not view it). How long have Mosso been making bikes, and what's the expected lifespan of this frame? I was reading on some forums that these Mosso brand frames looked delicate, although no-one had experienced troubles? Thanks, looking forward to your reply! Cheers,

hi Mopkop, I have a similar problem, my Scott 26" frame bust 2 weeks ago, cracked between the seat clamp and the top-tube weld. Frame is 6-7 years old so no complaints there. I'm interested in contacting your LBS for that Giant frame, would be keen on doing a build-over. Could you please PM me their details? Thanks a mil! I have also read your thread and I will probably buy a 29er HT - busy checking stock levels as there is NO stock at the moment here in Joburg. Thanks, appreciate your discussion here. Cheers,

Hey Tarmac, I don't think it's all about the weight - my opinion is the bikes have bottomed-out at 6 or 7Kg, why bother going lighter? No benefit in my view, in fact the weight does help the ride in various ways like maintaining momentum and stability. I'd venture to say 6 or 7Kg is about perfect. The discs would bring other more valuable benefits, I would think. Let's also keep in mind the bicycle reached it's pinnacle in engineering terms somewhere in the 1800's, and has not advanced beyond the basic principle since then. Yes it can be lighter, equipped with electronics etc. but the principles have not evolved. Just my 10c, Cheers,

Here's my 10c worth guys: In my view there are a few problems with spin bikes: Saddle is only adjusted in inches, not millimeters so although you will never be able to replicate your bike setup, you might get within the nearest 2cm. Regarding the knees, I NEVER let the flywheel 'pull' my leg around. This can only cause damage - your knee was not engineered to be pulled, ever. To guard against this, I ALWAYS make sure I have resistance on the flywheel so that I always have to pedal the cranks around. The top-speed spinning does absolutely nothing for you as a cyclist i.e. In reality, you will NEVER pedal that fast when riding your proper bike so it cannot help you, it only risks damaging your knees on a spin bike. The class never caters for the serious cyclst - the 'popcorn' up-down-up-down mentioned in the thread above is more of a nuisance than anything else. Also I have never see a spin instructor who even owns (yet alone trains) with a HR monitor. I usually sit at the back of the class and train in my target HR zone. Just my opinion, but think hard before you strap your knees to a spinning wheel... Cheers,

LibrariesPicturesBike.jpgMan, I miss Alan van Heerden. He used to be the Colnago agent. I bought two Colnago’s from The Legend himself. My first one was a Superissimo (steel frame) in deep purple colour, then replaced it with my Dream (aluminium frame) in Rabobank colours just like MacDaddy’s although his looks likem a C40 Carbon model NICE DUDE! My Dream alley is a sweet ride still today! RIP Alan... I took a photo of my bike but sorry boys, can't seem to figure out how to attach it...mebbe my internet connection is too slow! Cheers,

RIP Ertjies, we will remember you... condolences to the family.

I cramped for 17 years, basically tried everything. The theory I have eventually settled on, is the same as Garfield2010 said above. It's basically illustrated like this: you sweat out water and electrolytes, but drink only water to 'rehydrate'. If the water (or your choice rehydration formula you drink) does not replace these electrolytes at the rate you are sweating them out, you start cramping, which gets worse over time. The solution which helped me the most, was to dissolve a normal Salt Tablet into my bottles or throw 3 of them into my CamelBak bladder. It works like a charm, but I believe we also cramp for different reasons. Funny thing is the salt tablets are the cheapest option, which work after years of experimenting with various things including Calcium Sandoz-Forte, Spirulina tablets, Slow Mag, more training, stretching etc.etc. The USN Cramp Stop tablets work for me OK too, but are expensive. I get the same relief from using salt tablets. Buy them at Dischem. I urge you to try this before you criticise my suggestion. After cramping for 17 years, I have managed to ride for the past 6 years with much reduced cramps. They have not totally gone away, but are completelly manageable. Cheers,

Lewis is cool, only because he dated Nicole Scherzinger (formerly known as a PussyCat Doll!) Otherwise he's a bit of an arrogant dude, and dangerous on the track when he's upset. The personality is at fault, but the team is uber-cool What say you?

I use Solgar V2000 vitamins, one tablet a day. Only available from Health Shops, usually in malls like Eastgate and Cresta. They are expensive, but I only take one tablet a day. So a bottle of 180 tablets costs R520 and lasts me 6 months. I don't get colds & 'flu any more (for about 4 years now). I also eat FutureLife breakfast cereal in the morning (the chocolate one is great). This supplements the vitamins too. Try it for yourself, smaller bottles of 30 tablets are available. Solgar is a great product and not to be confused with the Dischem rip-off in the same colour packaging. The ingredients label says it all - one Solgar is about the equivalent of any two tablets from other manufacturers. Cheers,

I own a thule 3-bike towbar carrier, it is excellent. Perhaps get the 4th bike adaptor for the towbar, or put it into the boot? The roof-rack option is expensive and creates drag which impacts on your fuel consumption. If you go the roof-rack route, I would recommend putting one of the small kids bikes on the roof, because it would be less wind resistance, also puts less strain on the vehicle gutters. The towbar carriers can support more than three bikes, certified and tested so they are more than adequate to hold the weight of the big bikes. Cheers,

An excellent idea methinks, obviously I am concerned if the trust will be administered in a fair and transparent fashion. Otherwise something that will server a much-needed purpose in a time of need.

RIP my man, RIP. Guys please be careful out there - wear bright clothing, buy some bright lights (Front and Rear). What I have found is that at dawn (about 5:30 - 6am) is when the motorists have trouble distinguishing cyclists, simply due to the medium ambient light levels. The answer here is to switch your Front light to Flashing mode - this makes you visible at the time. Put your lights on all the time, not just when it's dark. Cheers and ride safe people...

In my experience, the best mud tyre is the Vredestein Killer Bee. Their manufacture has been discontinued, but some shops still have stock - there was even a guy on the Hub classifieds selling old stock last week. I also agree with Showtime, narrow tyres are better - they cut through the mud to find the hard turf at the bottom. Depends on the type of mud too - you may reach a point where if the mud is hectically bad of the sticky clay type, it really does not matter what you're riding - it may just be a bog of note! In these cases, the weight does not matter at all. Cheers

Yes Cassie, I have also been told at my bike shop that the only difference between the range of Shimano chains, is the plating used. Makes no sense to me, but may be the cause of the rust. Cheers,