droo

FIT4 with lsc adjust. As per the links in my last post. 15cc in the damper leg, 25cc in the spring leg.

A few points here. 1 - IRD is an electronic lockout, you'd know if you had it. It would be paired with an electronic lockout on the shock, and would have a bar mounted remote, some annoying cables, and a battery you'd have to charge every few weeks. On the compression adjuster on top of the damper leg it should tell you which damper you have. 2 - Air sleeve and lowers services are easy enough, damper services are not. If you're looking to do 50 hour services, you've found the right info. When it gets to the 150 hour services you're going to need some tooling. Instructions here, and assuming the fork is a FIT4, here and here. If you're having issues identifying it, post a photo of the compression adjuster and I'll tell you what you've got.

Someone's got to ask the stupid questions, and it's usually me. If you're not in a position to spend on a new brakeset, the next step would be to do a caliper service - pop the pistons out, carefully remove the piston seals, clean out all the gunk, apply DOT grease to everything, reassemble and bleed again. Instructions here. This should get the calipers working again for at least as long as the levers last. This is probably only worth it if you can do it yourself though. Otherwise, as DND says, just replace.

Have you bled the brakes?

They haven't even launched yet, should be ready to ship next week.

Take the Roval to your local Spez dealer and see what they can do - I'm not sure if it's possible to convert those hubs to QR, but if anyone knows it's them.

Useful info, thanks.

Missed the part about it being a 1.0 - get it properly (and I mean properly) assessed before you buy. There are no spares available for those things anymore, so it'll be pretty easy to buy yourself a paperweight.

If you're just using it on the IDT then keep the hub and flush and relube the freehub - instructions here. If it doesn't work, you won't be stuck out on the trail. If it does, you've saved yourself R 900 and serviced your hub at the same time.

We can service Leftys, so can RBC. The Project321 kit is probably your best bet, just make sure the clamps on the Lefty are far enough apart to fit your head tube and headset.

Maybe, will be a last minute decision if I do.

You're not going to service a Shimano freehub with cone spanners I'm afraid, you'll need a special tool to get in there. And it's a massive faff, and it's not guaranteed to work afterwards. It'll probably be cheaper and easier to replace if you can find a compatible one.

What hub is it? Decent cup and cone hubs can last for years if you look after them. But once the cups start pitting you may as well replace them with sealed bearing. That said, at R 2k including the wheel build you're most likely not going to improve your life much at all.

Nope, on a NW ring it shouldn't skip. But get a new chain at the same time and try it on the old cassette - if it skips, put the old chain back on. If it doesn't, you won't need a new cassette.

Are you upsizing the chainring to move the "favourite gear" to somewhere else on the cassette?

If your chain is that gone, a new chainring is a waste - the worn chain will trash the ring in one or two rides. Replace the chain and ring (new chain on your current chainring will chainsuck like a beast) and hope it doesn't skip on the cassette. If it does, put all the old stuff back on and ride it till it falls off, then replace the whole drivetrain.

As with most things I take this with a pinch of salt, but some interesting observations that coincide with my experiences as well, bearing in mind that while I can strip and reassemble a bike to a degree most can't, I kinda suck at riding them. He does state at the beginning that his is a subjective approach, and your average recreational MTBer (internationally, the average in SA is a marathon rider and therefore a completely different animal) cares not much for power outputs and efficiency and would rather just have a jol on the bike. In my case I was willing to take the knock on leverage (which is noticeable, but not insurmountable) for the benefit of kicking way fewer rocks. And so far I haven't regretted my decision. Which goes (I think) a fair way towards explaining why someone might want shorter cranks, and would consider modding a stuffed pair since they're not always easy to find, cos efficiency etc. OP - Lyne have just released 165 AMP cranks, which are a pretty affordable way of testing whether or not you'll agree with them.

I'm 1.82 and ride 165mm cranks on my MTB. Much preferring them to the 175mm I was on before, although they take a bit of getting used to on steeper climbs.

Ciovita FTW. Not cheap, but proper kit. I've been well impressed with the rain jacket and base layers I've bought from them recently. Waterproof socks - I'll send you the rep's number. I can't remember the brand, but he'll be able to tell you where to get them.

Sell them to Berg Man, he'll appreciate them. Great brakes, good power, well priced, reliable and well supported. If I didn't have a perfectly good set of Codes I'd be running Curas for sure.

We can do them, but considering the machine you need to bleed it is about R 60k and a basic seal kit is close to R 700, you'll have to define "an arm and a leg"...

It's threaded in, and in this case the thread has stripped. Seen it happen quite often. I'd try the repair first out of curiosity if it were my hub, but I wouldn't expect it to last long. But then I'm inclined to use things well beyond their intended lifespan. If it were for a client I'd bin it, not worth the comeback when it pops.

Yeah, I reckon Loctite is going to do exactly nothing aside from make a dent in your wallet. Epoxy should work if you can get the drive ring out and prep the mating surfaces properly though.

Dropper and fatter tyres and be done. Save the rest towards the new bike when that day comes. If the drivetrain is knackered, 1x11 would be a decent option as well. That fork should be able to go to 120mm just by removing a spacer in the air spring next time it gets serviced, check with whoever does it for you.

To add to the chorus, get it serviced. Hopefully you've caught it in time.