droo

Chain whip or just hold the crank in place with either your hand or your foot on the pedal. Just make sure you've either bolted the lockring tool to the spindle or someone's helping you so it doesn't slip on the spline.

Width? On bikes with skinny(ish) tyres it's all about depth isn't it?

Return to sender. That will blow up at some point, probably an inconvenient one.

Sometimes (most times really) the long way is actually the quick way... And yes, Bosch lockrings are left hand thread.

Not really. Just speak to your LBS and they'll build you whatever you want, although it may not be the cheapest solution. Or buy from Lyne. They usually have most widths in stock.

I would assume you bought a wheel, not a rim. If it was Boost and your frame wasn't you would have had to bend the dropouts open by 6mm to get the wheel in, and your through axle wouldn't be long enough. What you have there is a wheel that's out of dish - any half-decent wheel builder can sort that out for you. As D&D says, Cannondale wheels from that era need to be dished 6mm to the left - it evens out spoke tension and makes for a stronger wheel.

A problem that could easily be solved with the lockring tool so you could take the spider off. Worth the investment if you plan to do this more than once, and essential if you're fitting a 32 cos it doesn't fit over the spider...

Sounds like the end cap hasn't been properly tightened onto the axle. They quite often work loose when they're threaded on, so do need to be checked occasionally. If you ride it like that it's likely you'll break the axle. Sometimes there's a hex socket in the axle, usually a 12mm, sometimes a slot, and sometimes a hole, to help secure the axle while tightening the end cap. The proper torque and some blue Loctite will help it stay put, but it's something to check whenever you remove the wheel or wash the bike. Also, if the mechanic didn't know to check this when you brought it in the second time I'd suggest you have a word with the shop owner or workshop manager. It's pretty basic stuff for someone who does this for a living.

Roll the update back if you can - if it was working before, this should solve it unless the problem lies elsewhere. Also check the Garmin forums - if it is an update issue someone will most likely have identified it and possibly have a fix.

80% chance...

Fox, mostly for spares availability. RS are great while they work, but the assemblies you need to replace when they go wrong are bigger and will cost more. Also with the Fox you'll have the option of ditching the remote lockout.

Do the job properly, and know what you're worth. There are a million online discounters out there who will beat you on price, you need to beat them on knowledge and service. Not everyone will come back, but the ones that do will keep you alive and tell their friends.

Yup, not rubbish. They used to suck (ITO design, not quality), but no longer. The only gripe I have with them is that the lens quality isn't quite Oakley HDO level, and my old slightly useless eyes have issues with that in low light, which is about 80% of what I ride. This is specifically the photochromic lenses, since they don't do a true clear one in any of the styles I want. Aside from that they're about the best value brand out there.

Luxottica. If they don't have, good luck.

0.5% and a new chain will slip. Ride it into the ground and replace it when it's properly dead - you'd be surprised how far you can push a SRAM drivetrain. I'll carry on with my 5 year old Eagle cassette in the meantime. Onto my 4th chain and still going strong.

Both will last a very long time if you replace your chain before it hist 0.5% wear. Run your chain past that and they'll both be toast. Drivetrain wear is caused by chains, not soft cassettes.

Not if he can wheelie it...

Fit it and see if anything interferes. If it doesn't you should be fine. As for the leaking - check the valve stem and damper shaft for cracks. Damper shaft cracks can be hard to spot, but will usually be at the first thread on the eyelet end. Also check for wear on the inside of the air can between the wiper and quad seal - this can indicate frame misalignment. Also check pivot bearings for play, and frame alignment at both ends of the stroke.

I know what he's looking for, I have one. But only one, sadly. A proper speciality tool shop will be the best place to find one. In CT - Wurth, RS Components or Topfast. No idea about the rest of the country though.

Also known as a flare nut wrench. A tool shop should be able to help you.

Nils. There's even a courier out in Paarl this afternoon if you want to get it delivered instead of driving in.

What makes it rubbish? Never used one cos I have the Topeak, but interested to know which bullet I dodged.

Can you replace the battery on the new PRO ones? The old ones the battery was soldered to the board. On principle I won't buy anything that's deliberately engineered to be thrown away.

Topeak / Maxxis. The end. Same product, different printing. We have if you don't manage to find closer to home.

It's definitely waterproof. I sized down cos I wanted it a bit tighter (flappy rainwear annoys me) and have done a few rides in it so far with no issues. It does get a bit sweaty if you're using it as a windjammer, but it's got a mesh lining so you don't really notice until you take it off. Bottom line - can't be beaten at the price.