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NickD

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Everything posted by NickD

  1. Yes. Shimano Tourny but you may have to change the rear derailleur as well. The stuff is quite cheap though.
  2. Bicicletta
  3. NickD

    STI Repair

    Best bet is to take it to Alone at Solomons Pta. You cant get parts for them but he gets a pile of crashed ones from the distributer -Coolheat and then recovers the required part from scrap.
  4. In a nutshell: 1.0 Rim brakes have significant pure mechanical advantage over discs. Try and stop a spinning wheel by the tyre as opposed to the hub. 2.0 The mechanical advantage of hydraulic brakes is gained by the size of the piston at relative to the piston/s at the caliper. The pressure in the system is the same when the lever is depressed, therefore the gain is directly in proportion to the relative sizes of the pistons. 3.0 The biggest advantage of disc brakes would likely be that the rims are not heated up by prolonged braking. Remember Joseba Beloki's fall when the rim overheated and the tubby rolled off the rim. 4.0 Disc brakes would require cross lacing on both the front and the brear wheels.
  5. You need to take one complete link out of the chain, lower the front derailleur and adjust the cable tension. Removing the link is optional providing that you dont use small/small Regards
  6. Thanks Wannabe! I am fine, incredibly blessed. Apparantly I did a full summie and landed flat on my back and backside, then rolled a couple of times. Some roasties and a stiff left bum but I rode on Sunday and again today. Just as lucky with the bike which landed upside down on the saddle, writing off the saddle in the process, ripping the body off the rails. Some small scratches on the levers and the rear derailleur. I am grateful.
  7. So on Saturday I did my most spectacular fall to date. I hit a speedbump at 60km/h at the back of Valhalla during a group ride. A lady who lives close by saw the fall and phoned her husband who promptly came to my assistance. The gentleman loaded our bikes and took my wife and I to the Little Company of Mary hospital. He wouldnt leave until the doctor had examined me and even wanted to take our bikes to my house! So to ANDRE JOUBERT who didnt know us from a bar of soap, a huge thanks from everyone in the group, and I would almost be so bold to say from all cyclists. I certainly am hugely indebted to you. Nick and Denise Dekker and all of the Fanie Fourie group.
  8. Hi Asterix, This is normal although I use a thinner washer behind the casette. The 11 spd casette cantilevers behind the freewheel and that causes the binding. Not mad about the extra washer. Cheers
  9. The best commentator/starter/MC Reminded of this again at the Ride for Sight. Take a bow Johnny!
  10. How about bib-shorts guaranteed to have been worn by Jennifer Lopez - sworn affadavit included?
  11. Following a post-ride coffee session the following was raised: What wouldnt you buy off the Hub? Cycling shoes? Cycling helmets? Bib shorts?
  12. Cycling Power Most of us don't want to spend large amounts of money on a Cycling Power Meter for our bikes, and unless we are training very hard and with particular goals it is more of a luxury than a necessity. But it is still useful and interesting to know how much power we can generate when we cycle and an understanding of cycling power also makes it clear why we can all increase our speed quite quickly when we start, but it becomes progressively harder to make small improvements as we get faster! The basic idea is that we need power to overcome air resistance (more important on flat / downhill sections) and gravity (important when going up hills!). There is also a small amount of friction to overcome, both in the bike and between the bike and the road (hence the use of smoother, thinner tyres). As a guide, below are some approximate cycling power figures for various speeds of cycling: Speed - kmh (mph) Power (watts) Increase in power needed to increase speed by 2.5kmh 20 (12.5) 75 22.5 (14) 95 20 25 (15.6) 120 25 27.5 (17.2) 148 28 30 (18.7) 180 32 32.5 (20.3) 218 38 35 (21.9) 262 46 37.5 (23.4) 311 49 40 (25) 366 55 Figures assume a flat road on a windless day. The exact figures will change according to rider and bike weight, air temperature and position on the bike but the principle is the same and the figures are quite similar. The numbers explain immediately why cyclists find it hard to keep getting faster - the faster you are going, the larger the increase in power needed to keep improving - for example, increasing your power by 50% (no mean feat) will only increase your speed from 15.6 mph to 18.7 mph. Similarly, increasing your average speed from 20 kmh to 25 kmh requires that you produce an extra 45 watts of energy, while the same increase in speed, from 35 to 40 kmh, needs an increase of over 100 watts - and you need to already be producing over 250 watts, which is already quite an achievement for most of us apart from shorter stretches of road! This is because, in maths speak, 'wind resistance increases with the square of the velocity' - in non-maths terms, going 25% faster needs much more than a 25% increase in the power you produce! At lower speeds air resistance is much less important (ie much easier to overcome) but the faster you travel the more of your energy goes in just pushing the air out of the way. Hence of course the reason to try and be quite aerodynamic on your bike - the faster you are riding, the more important this becomes. It is useful to find a flat stretch of road a few miles long if possible, and every month or two see what average speed you can maintain on the same stretch or road - this will give you a guide to your power output, so you can compare your own performance over time. It is also worth noting your weight at the same time, so you can see a 'cycling power to weight' figure. You can also use a 'cycling power calculator' (eg this one here) to come up with an estimate of your power. It is this number that gets you up the hills faster and that you want to improve! For example,if you are gaining speed on hills but losing lots of weight over the same period it is possible that your actual cycling power is unchanged, but your 'power per kilogramme' is increasing. Maximum power output is of course much higher than the average you can sustain over a long distance, at least 50% extra would be typical - so if you can cycle at 15.6 mph for a long distance it is probable that you can manage at least 19 mph for short distances. Note: It is said that top riders produce 450 - 500 watts over reasonably extended stretches (e.g. a hill climb) and that sprinters at maximum output during the last 100 metres of a race produce 1000 - 1200 watts. Most of us will have to settle for something rather less!
  13. I have also looked at the differences between the 10spd and 11 spd cranks. The spiders are the same thickness but the following differences are noted: The tooth profile on the blades is narrower and the profile on the small blade is offset to the right to line up with ramp on the big blade. None of these differences can prevent an 11spd chain working on the 10spd crankset.As for dropping a chain between blades, that is more dependent on the angle of the shifting ramp on the big blade than the spacing between the rings. FSA is notorious for this when the ramps become a bit worn. I have sorted this problem on two FSA chainsets simply by replacing the blades with Shimano (130BCD) For those people driving Shimano casettes with Campy mechs (10spd) try this: Take the 1mm washer behind the casette (9spd freewheel) and place between 7/8 sprocket. If the lockring allows it place another 1mm washer between 3/4 sprocket. You have just corrected the full 2mm error. It doesnt have to be done per shift as the overshift is .22mm per shift. I did it on an Easton freewheel but it wont work with all freewheels. Of course just setting up for a lazy shift between 1/2 is fine.
  14. Compact cranksets use a BCD of 110mm as opposed to 130mm (Shimano) and 135mm (Campy), in order to accomodate the small 34 blade. The biggest blade for a 110mm BCD is a 52, made by FSA, Sram and some others. Hope this helps. Regards, Nick
  15. My twocents worth: The best lube a chain has on is when it comes out of the packet, ie it has been through a grease bath. So if you want to replicate that do the following: Remove the chain, place in a can with thinners, shake leave for a while, remove and hang up to dry. Place chain in a tin and cover with lithium grease. Now place tin on gas braai and heat up. The grease will melt completely, (sometimes it catches fire). Cool and wipe thoroughly. You now have a chain lubed with something that has the film strength to resist loading normal to the loaded surfaces, whereas any lube that can get into the roller is on the thin side. The same method can be used to re-lube sealed ball bearings. I dont do this. I just wipe the chain and lube it with Motorex, use it and keep wiping it until it is dryish. Regards, Nick
  16. Hi Johan, Just too pleased that you are ok! Without quoting formulas ( cant use eq. editor in here and just too lazy to type separate text and paste) just consider the wheel as a free body. With the vehicle travelling at a constant speed the wheel has the following forces applied to it: A driving force at the hub which is in equilibrium with the friction times the vertical reaction acting at the contact point. Effectively both forces are removed when the wheel leaves the axle. However, because the wheel is turning it has an amount of kinetic energy stored which is a function of the mass of the wheel and the angular velocity. The problem is therefore the same as spinning up the wheel in a stationary position and releasing it. Think what would happen if the wheel had no mass? On the subject of linear momentum, a story I heard many years ago when the Rhodesian bush war was still on: A senior citizen converted an old Peugot station wagon to a gunbus by adding a machine gun to fire through the grill. Then, deciding that the rear was vulnerable, he installed a chute ( probably a piece of water pipe from the front to the rear so that he could chuck a hand grenade down it while driving. The vehicle did not survive the test run. Why? Regards and glad you are ok. Nick
  17. Would like to post a sincere thanks to Johan Bornman. He travelled all the way to Pretoria today and presented the final year Civil Engineering students at Tuks with an excellent, down to earth explanation of the structural mechanics of bicycle wheels. My motive was partly selfish but I also wished to expose students to the fact that structures are all around us and we dont even notice or try and understand how they work. On behalf of the Dept of Civil Engineering, thanks a mil JB!!!!!!!!!! Seriously effective marketing for cycling. Nick Dekker Professor of Structural Engineering. Dept Civil Engineering University of Pretoria
  18. On a point of curiousity, any reason why a tiagra rear deraileur shouldnt work with 10 sdp shifters and casette? The converse works. Regards
  19. My 2c worth. I have done some 8000 km on WHR550s and have only trued them once after I rode into a car. I am light at 65 kg but I think generally heavier riders should avoid all wheels with a low spoke count. Although they look bling wheels such as Shimano, Ksyrium SL etc should not be ridden by heavier riders. Proven wheels for heavier riders, ( www.roadbikereview.com) include: Easton Vistas and Circuits. or even Orions Handbuilts like Mavic Open pro on Dura Ace or Ultegra hubs - 32 spokes I know a guy who pulled out of the 94.7 after 50ks with Ksyrium SLs cause all the spokes came loose (100kg) Friend of mine (95kg) started breaking spokes on 550s after 3500k and another one (100kg) cracked the rear rim on a set of Shimano 7800 - the older Dura Ace. Interestingly enough the later 7801 has a wider flange which increases the spoke offset requiring less tension for lateral stability. Also avoid hubs with very little spoke offset ( spokes nearly vertical) The American Classic hubs are particularly bad in this regard. I like the Shimano hubs simply because they are easily serviced without special tools. Obviously I have omitted a lot of other good wheels that I simply dont know from personal experience. I am sure a set of handbuilts from someone like JB (Yellowsaddle) would be an investment. Regards.
  20. Dear all. Many, many thanks. I really look forward to the experience. My wife started riding about 6 months ago, having never been allowed on the road as a child. She absolutely loves it and I must say after 25 years of marriage, we are experiencing some of the best quality time together by riding. Regards, Nick
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