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ABrooks

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Everything posted by ABrooks

  1. Have a look on the USD trading page, they should be there.
  2. The taste was quite bad, but it was new. I ran a few cleaning cycles with diluted vinegar as per the manual. It didn't really make a difference. I ended up sending the machine back today due to the plastic taste. We had an old kettle that would give off the same plastic taste 1 out of 5 times of use, so I am not taking any chances on this. I am also a bit disappointed in the grinder, while the grind volume seems to be consistent, the finest setting is not fine enough in my opinion. I would have preferred to have the option of going finer to experiment with. For the next machine we will go with a separate standalone grinder (burr-grinder off course).
  3. We recently got a new coffee machine, a Philips grind and brew. The problem now is that the coffee smells and taste like plastic, especially if we make use of the timer function. What can I do to remove te taste and smell from the machine?
  4. ABrooks

    RIFLE

    personally, I would recommend either the Glock 26 or the CZ P10s as a self defense pistol. Both have double stack magazines, meaning more ammo per magazine and they are smaller than their bigger brothers the Glock 19 and CZ P10C. Both can take the magazines of their bigger brothers for training or even as an extra mag. You will hear a lot of people recommend a .38 special for a woman, because they are supposed to be easier to maneuver and the old line of "you only need to shoot once so 5 rounds is more than enough". You will see a lot of videos on self defense where the guy only goes down after 4 or 5 shots and then he may not have been alone. Train with your weapon and know how to use and you will be fine.
  5. I don't really have the space for a table saw in the garage so I just use a circular saw for all of my large cutting work. It used to be a pain to set up each cut and even then I would be off by a mm or so. I ended up making a track similar to how a track saw works, now I just use two spring clamps to hold the track in place and I line the side of the track up with my marks. I now get perfect cuts each time. When I made the base plate that fit onto the saw I drilled and tapped the holes so that it is positioned perfectly each time I need to take it off.
  6. It's a good system and in my opinion not that expensive in the time that I save when using it. Holes are always in the correct position and if your saw blade is square the joint will most likely be square. You get two different types of screws for hardwood and softwood. I had a kitchen island that I made using plywood and only pocketholes, no glue and it held up crockery and pots and pans. you have to be mindful of the direction of the screw direction if you want strength. Edit: I have this kit: https://leroymerlin.co.za/jig-pocket-hole-system-kreg-jig-r3with-free-face-clamp-81441768?sfdr_ptcid=32806_617_537688678&sfdr_hash=011bee92e9bd79dd473790239cad6309&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgo_5BRDuARIsADDEntSKzqkBmVaPxrPFRF33VELpnjMmGnTnlWvwOQGY0pyA-dZwJkTyhGMaAmGtEALw_wcB
  7. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTnVDl6Y6u4 The above video shows how to make a tap and die for making wooden threads.
  8. Ah okay that makes sense, thanks for the heads-up. My tolerances were a bit tight so I need to either reprint or see if I can sand it down slightly.
  9. That is really nice! Castors on big items is a necessity when you have a small space to work in, but I hate the slight rocking that it introduces. This is a very good alternative. On a side note, how did you decide on what type of bench you want to build? My goal is to build a moravian style workbench at some point. The bench can be disassembled if it needs to be moved.
  10. I'll see how it holds up, I have some ABS, but the printer needs some setting up to be able to print it and it is a bit cold at the moment. The part will not have high loads on it or prolonged loads it is meant to slide smoothly on the rails.
  11. Once I've tested it with the sqaure tubing I will share, just want to make sure of the dimensions.
  12. The parts have been printed, now I just need to attach the square tubing to the base. Hopefully the base will seat tightly and the guide on the drill will be able to slide freely with no play. Yes the parts are printed in black with glitter, I did not pay close enough attention when I ordered it.
  13. I'm trying to 3D print a mobile press based on this design, I have a corded ryobi drill with a round section where it will be able to bolt the guides. I'm using 25mm square tubing for lateral stiffness. It's only a question of whether the 3D printed parts will hold up. For the odd straight hole I need to drill I guess it should be fine.
  14. There is a nice metabo sliding mitre saw on sale at the moment on Takealot. I thinks it is going for around R4k.
  15. The Ryobi One+ range looks appealing in terms of the variety of tools that fit one battery. Bosch doesn't seem to have such a wide range.
  16. Oh and I only realised I bought black pla with glitter when I wanted to start the print and took the roll out of the box.
  17. I have a new project to share that I have been busy with. So the apparently the Ender 5 has some stability issues when printing larger, heavier items on the cantilever designed bed. On Thiniverse there is a few designs, but I wanted something a bit more structural looking. I designed this piece in Fusion 360 to act as a support for the cantilever base. There were some dimensional limitations on how tall the support could be and it had to go around a base leveling screw. Here is the completed print. I printed it with support material in this orientation to get the layers running along the length of the beams. Here it is with the supports removed: And finally the rear bracket to attach it to the linear bearing at the back. I will post pictures once I have it installed on the printer. I am going to upload to Thingiverse if it fits and works.
  18. I won't be sharing this on Thingiverse because it was a copy from someone else's design that I got on Thingiverse, I just changed it to fit my needs. I am working on some bed supports that I will be sharing, I don't like how the current ones look and function.
  19. I printed these parts out last night for a honing/sharpening guide. Drawn up on Fusion 360 to fit the hardware I had laying around. I got my inspiration on Thingiverse. I had the hardware laying around. I printed bushings to fit some old pivot bearings I had. I also printed a housing for the nut to tighten it down onto a chisel or plane iron. The other bolts are just friction fit. Here it is assembled and with a plane iron in place. I designed the model to be symmetrical to save time on drawing up. In hind sight I could have printed the sections thinner and just swapped it around after printing since it would still be mirror images.
  20. Thanks at the moment the bed seems to be quite level. I did a first layer test print and slowed the print speed down to make it easier to make adjustments.
  21. Ok, I see now that it is included in the TH3D bundle. Will work through it tonight. Is the mesh bed leveling the operation where you set bed offsets to account for a warped bed?
  22. Where do I find the Arduino studio? So best would be to just enable manual mesh bed leveling? I see Teaching Tech on Youtube has a video on bed leveling.
  23. Would it be possible to print the section you need and cut the section that failed on something like a band saw to glue them together?
  24. Thank you, I've looked around on their website. Would you say their prices are on par with what I would typically pay?
  25. I'm still wrapping my head around how the whole firmware stuff works and what is safe to use. As I understand it the Ender 5 pro comes with the V1.15 board which has a bootloader flashed already. However, I am not sure how to proceed further. I have downloaded the TH3D zip file but that is about it.
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