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Posted

I haven't done the maths on this yet ... am hoping to short-cut that little exercise with the help of some engineers out there. Is there more load on the disks (both rotors and pads) with a 29" than is the case with a 26". My first take is that the 29" wheel will actually be spinning slower and the reverse torque that the disks develop is related to the momentum of the bike and rider only (if considered in isolation)... and assuming that no skidding takes place. So the brakes do the same amount of work, irrespective of wheel size.

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Posted

I haven't done the maths on this yet ... am hoping to short-cut that little exercise with the help of some engineers out there. Is there more load on the disks (both rotors and pads) with a 29" than is the case with a 26". My first take is that the 29" wheel will actually be spinning slower and the reverse torque that the disks develop is related to the momentum of the bike and rider only (if considered in isolation)... and assuming that no skidding takes place. So the brakes do the same amount of work, irrespective of wheel size.

:thumbup:

Posted

I looked this up yesterday and found this: "Loss of stopping power, or fade, can be caused by friction fade, mechanical fade, or fluid fade."

and brain fade...

Posted

I don't know what happened here, so I am not really commenting on Kevin's scenario.

But regarding brakes and this is just my opinion.

Brakes can get moisture in them, yes even fully sealed systems, and we are not talking a lot.

Moisture, condensation, oil and heat don't really work well together.

I will conclude by saying this, too many people bleed brakes without getting rid of all the old fluid first.

On Avid brakes I actually "suck" all the old fluid out and bleed complete with new brake fluid, this should deal rather well with the dreaded "brake fade" issue.

And no, I am not here to debate this to end in this topic, if there are those who feel the need to argue, then create a separate topic on the issue (where I will leave it open to the experts again)

 

100% :thumbup:

Posted

Who, Evans on the Elixir 5's ?

 

Dude. I well understand that these top guys often run 'Blackbox' items not even released to the public, but on most of the pics of their 2011 ride they appear to be Elixirs.

 

Which are pretty good, notwithstanding. So the rotor issue must enter the fray too.

 

But am open to correction here. The initial question is still unanswered. What brakes?

Posted (edited)

That's a Scrub rotor ? :huh:

 

Riiight. Thanks.

 

Now find me a pic of them brake levers!

 

Composite rotors, wrong pads? - Eish!

 

"Please be aware that sintered, semi-metallic or full metallic pads should never be used with Scrub rotors. Use only organic or resin pads! If you use a brand other than Scrub or Kool-Stop, be sure they are 100% organic. Use of any other pad may compromise performance and/or void any support that we may offer."

Edited by The Drongo
Posted

Dude. I well understand that these top guys often run 'Blackbox' items not even released to the public, but on most of the pics of their 2011 ride they appear to be Elixirs.

 

Which are pretty good, notwithstanding. So the rotor issue must enter the fray too.

 

But am open to correction here. The initial question is still unanswered. What brakes?

XX brakes.

Reason I asked who you were referring to, I wasn't sure :thumbup:

Posted

AFIK Kev an Dave can't run Blackbox as they are not part of the SRAM program ?

But they would probly have the XX World Cup version which is just the production version, if that is out yet. Or just normal XX Dangle ?

 

Maybe now people will stop giving Sauser moeilikheid about using only 3 disk bolts :lol:

Posted

XX brakes.

Reason I asked who you were referring to, I wasn't sure :thumbup:

 

Cool.

 

So that would include cleansweep rotors then, which in a poor video-shot could look like Scrubs?

Posted

Cool.

 

So that would include cleansweep rotors then, which in a poor video-shot could look like Scrubs?

XX World Cup, which just has an adjuster added at the lever.

The rotors are Scrub/Scrap.

One has to wonder how durable magnesium is when it get's machined to almost nothing. :unsure:

Posted

XX World Cup, which just has an adjuster added at the lever.

The rotors are Scrub/Scrap.

One has to wonder how durable magnesium is when it get's machined to almost nothing. :unsure:

 

And has ceramic in the mix!

 

Back to Shimano - Ta!

Posted

And has ceramic in the mix!

 

Back to Shimano - Ta!

Sure but don't use Scrub :blink:

I have XX brakes, not a day's wort of trouble.

Avid Elixir Mag's on my SS, not a day's worth of trouble.

Posted

Sure but don't use Scrub :blink:

I have XX brakes, not a day's wort of trouble.

Avid Elixir Mag's on my SS, not a day's worth of trouble.

 

I would venture that you would check your brakes regularly, but not service them after each ride :thumbup:

 

KE's brakes were serviced after every stage, so he was basically going out on new brakes every day :unsure:

Posted

I would venture that you would check your brakes regularly, but not service them after each ride :thumbup:

 

KE's brakes were serviced after every stage, so he was basically going out on new brakes every day :unsure:

There is no need to service/bled them everyday.

I will take a bet that what they mean by service everyday, will just be a general check on pads and adjusting the caliper with the rotor to check for brake drag.

Posted

I would venture that you would check your brakes regularly, but not service them after each ride :thumbup:

 

KE's brakes were serviced after every stage, so he was basically going out on new brakes every day :unsure:

 

Yea. Don't know about bleeding everyday. But scrub rotors apparently require regular pad changes, and new pads don't bed in easy, when they do they don't last too long.

 

As Evans says on his tweet, too far, too fast, too hot.

 

Accident. The price you pay for light vs strong.

 

Titanium - now that be light, and strong - He got some :D

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