The right tool 4 the JOB

[TNT1]

Pick me. On, no, wait. I'm just a tool, and not really right for any job. As you were...

[Super_mil]

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

 

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh*t!'

 

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.

 

SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

 

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

 

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

 

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

 

MOLE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

 

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for setting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub from which you are trying to remove a bearing race.

 

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing a walls integrity.

 

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground, after you have installed your new brake shoes, and trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

 

BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut perfectly good aluminum sheet metal into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

 

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

 

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

 

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and also for butchering your palms.

 

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

 

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used primarily for making hoses too short.

 

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate those more expensive parts that are immediately adjacent to the object we are actually trying to hit.

 

UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on their contents, such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund cheques, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while being worn.

 

F*CK-IT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'F*CK-IT' at the top of your lungs. It is also most often, the next tool that you will need

[Fish Eagle]

Pick me. On, no, wait. I'm just a tool, and not really right for any job. As you were...

 

 

[kosmonooit]

Torque wenches cost big bucks, and you get quite range. For bikes, you need a small one up to 14 Nm, CWC has a nice BBB one for R649

 

http://www.cwcycles.co.za/sites/default/files/imagecache/product/torq_tl.jpg

 

Remember with tools you get what you pay for (generally)

[splat]

my budged for the month for my tools is about R1200 .. how far up the hill will that get me ?

 

BBB Torque Tool @ CWC - R650.00

 

BBB Bottom Bracket Remover @ CWC - R180.00

 

BBB Cassette Remover @ CWC - R100.00

 

Chainwhip @ CWC - R100.00

 

Pedal Spanner @ CWC - R70.00

 

Allen Key Set @ CWC - R160.00 (Cheaper @ Builder's)

 

Good cable cutters and chain tools are not cheap...

[GrumpyOldGuy]

I was stingy when I bought my first tools. I have junked them since and bought better quality tools ideally suited for the job. Do not make that mistake and rather buy the CORRECT items in increments. You will not reggret that.

 

What is your first priorities with bike repairs or service?

 

Yeah true, for personal use quality tools are a pleasure to use, buy the best you can.

 

However, for commercial use get the cheapest you can, 'cos your staff will lose them, break them, bend them, weld them to jobs, leave them on site, steal them, loan them out, forget them in a job (costly as well), drop them in the furness, paint them, hide them, use them as impact drivers, hammer on them, chisel with screwdrivers, hammer with spanners, cut them up and then tell you they cant finish the job 'cos they dont have any more tools.

Edited June 27, 2011 by GrumpyOldGuy

[kosmonooit]

Lets not forget the 'ole chain checker, everyone swears by it here!

 

http://www.cwcycles.co.za/sites/default/files/imagecache/product/chain_checker.png

 

R50 from CWC

[TNT1]

Lets not forget the 'ole chain checker, everyone swears by it here!

 

http://www.cwcycles.co.za/sites/default/files/imagecache/product/chain_checker.png

 

R50 from CWC

 

Sies. Go and wash your mouth out with soap, and then go and ask johan boringman to teach you how to use a steel ruler

[chris_w_65]

Lets not forget the 'ole chain checker, everyone swears by it here!

 

http://www.cwcycles.co.za/sites/default/files/imagecache/product/chain_checker.png

 

R50 from CWC

 

OH F@#%$!!, here we go

[LeTurbo]

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

 

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh*t!'

 

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.

 

SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

 

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

 

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

 

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

 

MOLE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

 

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for setting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub from which you are trying to remove a bearing race.

 

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing a walls integrity.

 

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground, after you have installed your new brake shoes, and trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

 

BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut perfectly good aluminum sheet metal into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

 

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

 

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

 

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and also for butchering your palms.

 

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

 

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used primarily for making hoses too short.

 

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate those more expensive parts that are immediately adjacent to the object we are actually trying to hit.

 

UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on their contents, such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund cheques, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while being worn.

 

F*CK-IT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'F*CK-IT' at the top of your lungs. It is also most often, the next tool that you will need

 

 

Absolutely classic and absolutely true. Thanks, Super Mil

[rwa.basson]

Is a torque wrench that essential ?

 

OR i should rework my budget..

[rwa.basson]

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

 

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh*t!'

 

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.

 

SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

 

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

 

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

 

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

 

MOLE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

 

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for setting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub from which you are trying to remove a bearing race.

 

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing a walls integrity.

 

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground, after you have installed your new brake shoes, and trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

 

BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut perfectly good aluminum sheet metal into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

 

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

 

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

 

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and also for butchering your palms.

 

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

 

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used primarily for making hoses too short.

 

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate those more expensive parts that are immediately adjacent to the object we are actually trying to hit.

 

UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on their contents, such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund cheques, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while being worn.

 

F*CK-IT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'F*CK-IT' at the top of your lungs. It is also most often, the next tool that you will need

 

 

[rwa.basson]

Yeah true, for personal use quality tools are a pleasure to use, buy the best you can.

 

However, for commercial use get the cheapest you can, 'cos your staff will lose them, break them, bend them, weld them to jobs, leave them on site, steal them, loan them out, forget them in a job (costly as well), drop them in the furness, paint them, hide them, use them as impact drivers, hammer on them, chisel with screwdrivers, hammer with spanners, cut them up and then tell you they cant finish the job 'cos they dont have any more tools.

 

nice

[Big H*]

Rrrrr Waaaaa Basson what kind of bike have you got. More modern type with the external BB? or older type with the square taper BB? Road bike or MTB? Disks or V-Brakes, callipers? etc etc.

 

Good tools out there are made by BBB, Pro, Pedro's and Park.

 

Park and Pedro's is workshop quality tools and more expensive. If you will be servicing and repairing your own bike go for BBB and Pro.

 

Go to www.chainreactioncycles.com ( http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Categories.aspx?CategoryID=241 ) and set up your wishlist. Set the website to give you the cost in ZAR. You will only pay VAT and 10% on the Vat only. If your order is over ZAR 2570-00 you pay no shipping, so going into this with a few buddies you may just be able to save some money and bring in a few spares or upgrades.

 

It is very gratifying to stand back and see the fruits of your labour and know you did it yourself. It may be a bit of an overkill with all the tools you will eventually aquire but that is why quality is essential and it is an investment that will last you for many years.

 

There are more tools than you can ever remember but with the verrry basics like a chain tool, good set of allen keys, pedal spanner, cassette removal tool, chainwhip, crankset removal tool (Hollowtec II or square taper?), good set of small screwdrivers you can get very far. I have two fancy cable cutters but nowadays I cut cables with my Dremel tool. I have cut cables with an angle grinder. Bit of an overkill but it works. As you get more proficient you can expand your tool neccesities to do more jobs.

 

O ja first of all get yourself a good book, study the book and then decide what you want to buy. The Park Big Blue Book of Cycle Repair is a good starting point.

 

Lekker leer, droom en koop. Exciting!!!!!!!!

Edited June 27, 2011 by eccentric1

[Big H*]

Picture below of some tools:-

 

Top row from left to right:-

 

Allen Key Set (from Midas)

Allen Key with Grip. (Easier to work with)

Cheapo cable cutter

Syringe with blunted thick needle to apply oil easier.

BBB Cassette Removal Tool

BBB BB Removal Tool (square taper BB)

Crank Removal Tool (Square Taper)

Various small pliers

Park Spoke Nipple Tool

Topeak Chain Tool

Vice Grip

Crescent Shifting Spanner

Set of screwdriver, phillips, torx and allen bits

 

Bottom row from left to right:-

 

Grease gun (not necceary now)

Self made chainwhip

Screwdriver handle for set of bits above

Park Chain Checker (not necceary now)

Park Spoke tension tool (not necceary now)

Chainring nut spanner (not necceary now)

[chris_w_65]

Picture below of some tools:-

 

Top row from left to right:-

 

Allen Key Set (from Midas)

Allen Key with Grip. (Easier to work with)

Cheapo cable cutter

Syringe with blunted thick needle to apply oil easier.

BBB Cassette Removal Tool

BBB BB Removal Tool (square taper BB)

Crank Removal Tool (Square Taper)

Various small pliers

Park Spoke Nipple Tool

Topeak Chain Tool

Vice Grip

Crescent Shifting Spanner

Set of screwdriver, phillips, torx and allen bits

 

Bottom row from left to right:-

 

Grease gun (not necceary now)

Self made chainwhip

Screwdriver handle for set of bits above

Park Chain Checker (not necceary now)

Park Spoke tension tool (not necceary now)

Chainring nut spanner (not necceary now)

 

I prefer the sockets but that is because I have the suitable sized torque wrench

Edited June 27, 2011 by chris_w_65