Shimano brake bleeding

[divernick]

Remember to return the reach adjust to max lever-to-bar distance before bleeding. I forgot to do this on a previous bleed and the levers travelled a long way before bite.

 

I re-bled the other day with the reach adjusted out as far as possible and then re-adjusted the reach once I'd finished the bleed and now the bite point is perfect.

[BaGearA]

I've got some of that castrol in 50ml bottles if anyone needs send me a pm

[GrahamS2]

Just bled brakes on 3 of our bikes.  All Shimano.  Each bike took only 30 minutes using the top to bottom approach.  Put 20 - 30ml syringe in master cylinder, fill with oil (I use Febi Bilstein 06162), put tube over nipple in bottle, open nipple with 7mm spanner, and let gravity do the work.  After closing the nipple a final time, I tap the master cylinder lightly and work the lever to let any bubbles in the master cylinder escape to the top.

 

All of the levers are solid, with no spongy feeling at all.

Where do you source that oil from?

[PhilipV]

Tell more. I need to bleed some Shimano brakes this weekend...

Cup at the top and syringe at the bottom only, otherwise brakes get phooked?

I use 2 syringes.

Remove brake pads and insert bleed block. Brake lever is loosened and turned horizontally. Top syringe screws in, (a reverb bleed kit works well.) At the bottom I use a syringe with a fish tank pipe that I force over the nipple.

Bottom syringe is filled with mineral oil. Open the nipple with a 6mm spanner (quarter turn is enough) and then slowly push the bottom syringe, forcing oil into the system and then the old oil and bubbles in the system will fill the top plunger.

When the new clean oil starts entering the top syringe you have flushed the system. Close the nipple, carefully remove the syringes and close the bleed port in the lever. Clean everything thoroughly and then reinsert your pads. Et voila

 

The fancy Shimano cup is just a neater way than using another syringe AR the top. I had a reverb bleed kit that fits, but the Shimano cup thing is not expensive. The oil itself is more expensive actually.

Edited May 10, 2016 by PhilipV

[dev null]

Where do you source that oil from?

 

Goldwagen stores. R125 per liter.

[BDF]

I use 2 syringes.

Remove brake pads and insert bleed block. Brake lever is loosened and turned horizontally. Top syringe screws in, (a reverb bleed kit works well.) At the bottom I use a syringe with a fish tank pipe that I force over the nipple.

Bottom syringe is filled with mineral oil. Open the nipple with a 6mm spanner (quarter turn is enough) and then slowly push the bottom syringe, forcing oil into the system and then the old oil and bubbles in the system will fill the top plunger.

When the new clean oil starts entering the top syringe you have flushed the system. Close the nipple, carefully remove the syringes and close the bleed port in the lever. Clean everything thoroughly and then reinsert your pads. Et voila

The fancy Shimano cup is just a neater way than using another syringe AR the top. I had a reverb bleed kit that fits, but the Shimano cup thing is not expensive. The oil itself is more expensive actually.

Cool. The thing is to only do from the bottom up, not the top down as well. Thanks!

[Guest notmyname]

Remember to return the reach adjust to max lever-to-bar distance before bleeding. I forgot to do this on a previous bleed and the levers travelled a long way before bite.

 

I re-bled the other day with the reach adjusted out as far as possible and then re-adjusted the reach once I'd finished the bleed and now the bite point is perfect.

Gold*

 

*Failed here a while ago.

Edited May 10, 2016 by neilneilneilneilneil○

[Guest notmyname]

Goldwagen stores. R125 per liter.

OH NO YOU DIDN'T!

[dev null]

OH NO YOU DIDN'T!

 

Something I missed? 

[Guest notmyname]

Something I missed?

I'm sure not using Shimano oil has been debated to death. Lol. Just giving the ol' pot a whirl.

[dev null]

I'm sure not using Shimano oil has been debated to death. Lol. Just giving the ol' pot a whirl.

 

Yes.

 

The LBS was like "You will lose your warrantee then!"

 

I was like "Check the worry in my eyes!".

 

 

EDIT: (on the soap box)

 

I know the price of Shimano fluid has dropped lately.  They finally figured out that we knew they were grossly overcharging us.  But it is still more than double the price it should be, so I am still giving them a miss, and the LBSs around here never have it in stock.

 

If Febi Bilstein 06162 is good enough to be specced as OEM on major European car manufacturers for hydraulic oil (BMW, VW, Citroen), then it is good enough for my MTB brakes.  Check its specs.  Very impressive.

Edited May 11, 2016 by Moridin

[Cappi]

On my Formula One brakes you can solve this problem by pumping the levers two or three times with the wheel removed from the brake calliper. If you pump too much you can gently push the brake pads apart with a screw driver, insert old brake pads when you do this.

 

Also if pushing the brake pads apart is difficult, open the bleed screw at the bottom and let out a drop or two of oil.

And this my friend was the winner. Thank you Sir. the levers feel and bite just awesome!!  

[Simon123]

I just use the cup.   On my XT, XT M8000 and XTR brakes.  Works quickly, and then I pump out the bubbles and dribble in fluid (a few drops over a few "pump out the bubbles".   Works well, and best lever feel.