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Comparison question:

Currently have Racing Ralph's snake skins front and rear on my bike. I have managed to pinch flat the rear twice at Wolwespruit. (That's 2 holes per puncture)

 

Will it be any different fitting a Ground Control GRID on the rear or are they similar to the RR SS (from a durability POV)? Or should I just go for a Russian tank at the back (Crossmarks)?

Grid is slightly tougher than the Snakeskin, IMO. 

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Grid is slightly tougher than the Snakeskin, IMO. 

Great, that's what I wanted to hear

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Comparison question:

Currently have Racing Ralph's snake skins front and rear on my bike. I have managed to pinch flat the rear twice at Wolwespruit. (That's 2 holes per puncture)

 

Will it be any different fitting a Ground Control GRID on the rear or are they similar to the RR SS (from a durability POV)? Or should I just go for a Russian tank at the back (Crossmarks)?

 

Pinchflatting a tubeless tyre is hard work - sounds more like a low pressure issue...

 

Random advice - get a grippier tyre for the front - it's always nice to have the less grippy rear tyre start to lose traction and warn you rather than the front breaking loose first and having to count your teeth :-)

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Pinchflatting a tubeless tyre is hard work - sounds more like a low pressure issue...

 

Random advice - get a grippier tyre for the front - it's always nice to have the less grippy rear tyre start to lose traction and warn you rather than the front breaking loose first and having to count your teeth :-)

THIS. 

 

Plus, it's where you do all your direction management, so good grip is a requirement. Not like moto when you can just plant it and braaaaap your way straight. 

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Pinchflatting a tubeless tyre is hard work - sounds more like a low pressure issue...

 

Random advice - get a grippier tyre for the front - it's always nice to have the less grippy rear tyre start to lose traction and warn you rather than the front breaking loose first and having to count your teeth :-)

I try to stay as close as possible to 1.8 to 2 bar but don't check it before every ride.

Is that a "safe" pressure or what do you guys run at the back?

 

I agree with the "grip at the front" philosophy but good traction on the steep climbs is good for my sanity

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Random advice - get a grippier tyre for the front - it's always nice to have the less grippy rear tyre start to lose traction and warn you rather than the front breaking loose first and having to count your teeth :-)

 

Can confirm that this is not fun 

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I try to stay as close as possible to 1.8 to 2 bar but don't check it before every ride.

Is that a "safe" pressure or what do you guys run at the back?

 

I agree with the "grip at the front" philosophy but good traction on the steep climbs is good for my sanity

 

How much do you weigh? Wolwespruit is quite rocky is memory serves - I normally add ~0.2 bar for rocky rides as protection against pinchflats.

 

Racing Ralphs are firmly in the marathon "low rolling resistance" range - tons of choices for grippier rear and even gripygrippier front...

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Comparison question:

Currently have Racing Ralph's snake skins front and rear on my bike. I have managed to pinch flat the rear twice at Wolwespruit. (That's 2 holes per puncture)

 

Will it be any different fitting a Ground Control GRID on the rear or are they similar to the RR SS (from a durability POV)? Or should I just go for a Russian tank at the back (Crossmarks)?

 

Go for the russian tank at the back. I've been using the same Crossmark on my bike, for almost a year now. I weight 106kgs, it has taken a lot of punishment, and it just keeps going!

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How much do you weigh? Wolwespruit is quite rocky is memory serves - I normally add ~0.2 bar for rocky rides as protection against pinchflats.

 

Racing Ralphs are firmly in the marathon "low rolling resistance" range - tons of choices for grippier rear and even gripygrippier front...

I weigh roughly 85 kg depending on the whether.

Think I'll start of by checking the pressures more regularly before each outing to the spruit.

 

So far I'm fairly happy from a grip perspective, its at least something that I can work with.

I like my short bursts at Wolwe but also starting to do longer rides so won't work committing to a super aggressive set of tyres

 

Any size suggestions on a non-boost Anthem?

A 2.3 should fit at the front and 2.1 at rear or 2.3's all around?

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I weigh roughly 85 kg depending on the whether.

Think I'll start of by checking the pressures more regularly before each outing to the spruit.

 

So far I'm fairly happy from a grip perspective, its at least something that I can work with.

I like my short bursts at Wolwe but also starting to do longer rides so won't work committing to a super aggressive set of tyres

 

Any size suggestions on a non-boost Anthem?

A 2.3 should fit at the front and 2.1 at rear or 2.3's all around?

2.3 front and back

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I weigh roughly 85 kg depending on the whether.

Think I'll start of by checking the pressures more regularly before each outing to the spruit.

 

So far I'm fairly happy from a grip perspective, its at least something that I can work with.

I like my short bursts at Wolwe but also starting to do longer rides so won't work committing to a super aggressive set of tyres

 

Any size suggestions on a non-boost Anthem?

A 2.3 should fit at the front and 2.1 at rear or 2.3's all around?

 

2.3 in front (even 2.4) and 2.25 at the rear. 2.1's are for dirt roadies.

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I weigh roughly 85 kg depending on the whether.

Think I'll start of by checking the pressures more regularly before each outing to the spruit.

 

So far I'm fairly happy from a grip perspective, its at least something that I can work with.

I like my short bursts at Wolwe but also starting to do longer rides so won't work committing to a super aggressive set of tyres

 

Any size suggestions on a non-boost Anthem?

A 2.3 should fit at the front and 2.1 at rear or 2.3's all around?

 

Of course opinions vary but I've never really like Racing Ralphs. We played "spot the Ralph" at Epic one year because pretty much every person we passed on the side of the road was on Ralphs. To be fair Ralphs were the most popular tyre that year....

 

I used to like Conti Xking/Race King combo but they seemed to change the rubber mix and the tyres felt more like plastic than rubber so I moved to Maxxis.

 

My current favourite for marathon/stage/general riding is Maxxis Ardent Race 2.35 up front and Maxxis Ikon 2.35 rear. I like the 3C/EXO/TR version.

 

I do run really narrow rims though (19mm width) so I tend towards the wider tyres. If your rim width is wide/wider maybe the 2.2s would work better for you (or if the 2.35 won't fit in your bike.)

 

Edit: Your pressures sound about right. I'm 84kg and roll 1.9bar over most terrain. Maybe up it to 2.1/2.2 for rocky stuff...

Edited by Eldron
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anyone have any comment on these as a front tyre

 

MAXXIS MINION DHR II 

 

 

basically im upgrading my wheels to 30mm internal and want some thing a bit more grippy than my ardent race ...which i will stick on rear

 

oh and dont want one that weighs a ton

Edited by Mawbs
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anyone have any comment on these as a front tyre

 

MAXXIS MINION DHR II

 

 

basically im upgrading my wheels to 30mm internal and want some thing a bit more grippy than my ardent race ...which i will stick on rear

 

oh and dont want one that weighs a ton

Do it. I have the dhr II WT 2.4 on the front also on a 30mm internal rim. Fantastic grip. I find it better than the dhf it replaced.

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anyone have any comment on these as a front tyre

 

MAXXIS MINION DHR II 

 

 

basically im upgrading my wheels to 30mm internal and want some thing a bit more grippy than my ardent race ...which i will stick on rear

 

oh and dont want one that weighs a ton

 

Fantastic tyre. Get it in the MaxxGrip EXO version.

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