26er vs 29er gearing / 9spd 10 spd

[Funrider-CPT]

I recently changed from 26er (9sped) to 29er (10spd) and apart from me just not being stong enough up the hills I found the 29er climbing a bit (lot) tougher that the 26er.

 

I can understand that, it take move power to turn the bigger wheels - at the same gearing. I then then looked and was surprised at the small chainring difference between the two bikes.

• the 26er (9spd) has a 22t chainring - so wheels turn easier AND the gear is small
  
• the 29er (10spd) has a 24t chainring -so with the wheels needing more power to turn, you need even more power because of gearing.
  

A lot of 29er now also come out with 2 instead of 3 chainrings where the smaller of the 2 is even bigger than 24.

 

I might be wrong but I think the clusters are equal on the two (at least in terms of granny-gear)

 

I also believe you do not get smaller than 24t chainring for 10spd (shimano)

 

OK, so long story but the questions are ...

1. can I use 9spd 22t chainring on the 10spd?
   
2. do you get 22t 10spd chainring?
   
3. why do they do this? (or is it just that the 29ers should not be ridden if you are not strong enough?)
   

 

thanks

 

I did not see another post that already covered this - if I missed it though, please point me in the right direction.

[covie]

I also made the transition to 2 x 10, and found that i fly like a demon on the gearing combination on anything less than a 15% gradient anything steeper than that and i die, and starting singing songs of love to my missing granny gear.

 

That said, dont change it mate just leave it as is, you need a lot more leg strength without our beloved granny, but this will come in time. The gearing combo you have is simply forcing you to get more leg strength. And thats a good thing.

 

Sure it might be a bit disheartening struggling up hills you use to fly up, but im sure in a month or two you'll be acing it up the mountain again.

[4u2nv]

I actually struggle with the same problem. Built my 26er parts over onto a 29er, and I cant get my cadence up on the hills. My buddies are spinning and I barely get the crank to turn. Can it be the small blade or the casette that needs to be adjusted?

[Funrider-CPT]

Covie - you should have gone for the Scott it has 3 blades.

 

I am not so much worried about flying up the hills but I learnt long ago on the road (maybe watching too much TdF hill climbs) that spinning up a hill is just so much more economical ... on the legs, the lungs etc. But I can do with a bit more strength

[TNOSE_E]

Don't think you can get a 10s 22t chainring. but if you could you would need to be carefull that the jump from small to large (2x10) chainring or small to middle (3x10) is not too big. This may cause shifting issues.

Edited March 15, 2012 by TNOSE_E

[wouterretief]

I have moved over from a 26" (9 speed) to a 29" (10 speed) - both have their pro's and cons. 26" agile and fast in every way. 29" is a bit more sluggish and is more suited to marathon kind of rides. You will se a major difference between your performance between that of your friend and you when doing a long flat and fast race. Nothing beats the 29er on a long straight where you put your head down and grind and it's very fast down hill - some-times scary fast. Pick your races better. Spinning classes help but not standing in your seat - sitting down and going through every conceivable resistance seated and weight training on legs also helps lots. I am tall and am heavy - so for me the 29er is more comfy.

[covie]

Covie - you should have gone for the Scott it has 3 blades.

 

I am not so much worried about flying up the hills but I learnt long ago on the road (maybe watching too much TdF hill climbs) that spinning up a hill is just so much more economical ... on the legs, the lungs etc. But I can do with a bit more strength

 

Yeah buddy TDF chaps spin up in their biggest gears

 

Im slowly adapting to the 2 x 10, besides the really steep inclines wich ill master as im forced to build more leg strength, I can say im extremely happy with the 2 x 10 setup, So far its keep it in the small blade while the legs warm up, then shift over to my big blade and forget about shifting in the front, (well basically on all but serious hills) The acceleration especially on ST with the 2 x 10 is just insane

 

Guess once this flu is gone, two or three weeks of strength training is in order just to make life a little more pleasant.

 

And as far as the scott is concerned you have no idea how sweet that RM rides, i can throw it around ST just as well if not better than my 26" none of that dead foot syndrome. Im truely loving my bike. Im nowhere as fit as i was last year, but im shattering my times on all the tracks i usually do.

Edited March 15, 2012 by covie

[Iron]

What is the size of your rear cassette ?

 

i went from 9sp 3 x 9 XT with a 11/32 with 22/42 crankset

 

to a

 

10sp 2x10 11 / 36 26/40 crankset on my 29er and its a breeze ( at the last race i was climbing a climb that a struggled a bit on with my 9speed 26er )

 

My granny gear ratio is thus almost the same . 1:64 and 1:39 respectivley ( mmmm think i got this wrong , gonna check )

right so to help out .

 

 

My ratio does the following :

on my 26" fro every 1 rotation of the cranks i got 0,67 rpm of the wheel

on my 29" for every 1 rotation of the crank i get 0,72 rpm of the wheel.

 

 

 

 

in granny gear that is.

 

So in conclution if you use the same ratios from a 26" to a 29" you may struggle , but if you up the rear cassette you should be fine , its not a excact science but you need to be able to have a bit more spin in the 29er because of the wheel size ,

 

Works for me . love the 2x10 !!

Edited March 15, 2012 by Iron

[Paulst12]

On a 2x10 you dont need a 22t chainring as the cluster is usually bigger than the 9spd. The 10 speed clusters can have 11X36, with the 36t compensating for the bigger front chainring. I have a 30/44 in the front and 11/36 on the back and still climb hills no problem. Just play with the rear ratio's and u should come pretty close to the 3x9 levels.

[ramsew]

On a 2x10 you dont need a 22t chainring as the cluster is usually bigger than the 9spd. The 10 speed clusters can have 11X36, with the 36t compensating for the bigger front chainring. I have a 30/44 in the front and 11/36 on the back and still climb hills no problem. Just play with the rear ratio's and u should come pretty close to the 3x9 levels.

 

+1

[jannosmit]

There should be no problem or reason why you can't put aa 22t Granny on, Sram is running 22/33/44 and Shimano 24/32/42. You won't struggle with your configuration like the okes on there 2x10 does, I would say just put a 22t on, it's your bike! Enjoy it!

[Neg]

Hi Built over my 26er 3x9 22/34/44 and 11-34 on to my 29er and i i think i have kept the same gearing taking wheel size and gears into account. i know have a 22/34 for hills and i dont spin out as much as i did on the 26" and it actually keeps my legs at the right cadence and effort and i have a 44/11 for the flats and downs.... very happy!

[Salty]

I have just bought a 2x10 29er coming from a 26er. It comes std withn11/36 on the rear and 24/38 on the front. I find the biggest problem is running out of legs. Would it be possible to do 24/42 on the front?

I have not tried any serious uphill, but from what's have done would be concerned on moving to far from my granny equiv....

[jannosmit]

I have just bought a 2x10 29er coming from a 26er. It comes std withn11/36 on the rear and 24/38 on the front. I find the biggest problem is running out of legs. Would it be possible to do 24/42 on the front?

I have not tried any serious uphill, but from what's have done would be concerned on moving to far from my granny equiv....

 

Thats too far out. Ratio should be +- 1:1,5 granny to bigblade

 

Play here http://www.gear-calculator.com/

[Salty]

Thanks JanMTB, will go and play