Rockshok Recon Silver Poploc Question

[lyslexic]

Hi

 

My new bike has a Rockshok recon silver air 100mm shock. When I engage the remote lockout the shock doesn't lock completely, it just gets "harder". Is this right with this kind of shock or is it meant to lock out completely?

[nickelass]

most likey correct, there will alway be some movement.The system is designed like that.if not working correctly minor problem ,needs more oil.

[Johan Bornman]

Without knowing the magnitude of "harder", I'll guess and say it is probably perfect.

 

The lockout mechanism on those forks is called a Motion Control Damper and it has an inertia valve that over-rides the lockout in case of a hard bump. That valve is called the Gate (IIRC) on that fork. The gate isn't a complete lockout but oil can seep past it. Therefore, if you apply sustained force on teh fork, it will slowly sag lower.

 

However, that is not a realistic test of lockout since when we ride, the bobbing motion continuously resets the lockout position..

 

What you should look for is a large freeplay distance before the fork locks. If the freeplay is unacceptable, the oil level is too low.

 

In short, lockout is not absolute but good enough for riding.

[lyslexic]

Thanks

 

I wasn't aware of the motion control damper. I suspect that it might be short on oil but considering I know nothing about shocks It could also be perfect. Will test the freeplay when I ride this weekend.

[dillon]

If you have a rockshox with a manual lockout, what do you need to buy to get the poploc?

[droo]

A new compression damper with a remote. Somewhere around R 1 600 all in, depending on which damper you want - the hydraulic ones are a fair bit more, but worth it...

[David Marshall]

I wouldn't change from manual to a cable remote. We do far more conversions the other way around. The hydraulic ones are great.

[dillon]

I wouldn't change from manual to a cable remote. We do far more conversions the other way around. The hydraulic ones are great.

 

Why? I use my thumb remote all the time

[David Marshall]

That little grub screw holding a gear cable in a light aluminium housing is a weak point and is going to fail. So bad on the DT Swiss shocks that I won't service them myself. Let the agent have the hassel.

[droo]

Horses for courses... I wouldn't bother with a remote lockout because I never use it anyways, but there are those that use it all the time. The RS hydraulic lockout is a fit-and-forget, hence me recommending it over the cable one which is quite a high maintenance item.

[DuncanGV]

The Recon on my Silverback Sola 2 also has a bit of play when locked out.

 

When I enquired about it at the lbs, I was told that it was completely normal and was meant to prevent damage to the fork from any knocks that may happen whilst the fork is locked out.

 

It is such a small amount of movement that it is not even noticeable when riding.

[Mets]

Good day - might be a bit off topic, but seeing as I'm reviving an ancient thread, it shouldn't be to bad. 

 

I have a RS Reba RL with Poploc (cable). It started sticking and I decided to have a fiddle with the control on the fork. The little blue adjustment nut is held in position with a silver, flat / flatish bolt which is tightened with a torx key (not regular hex / Allen). I've loosened this bolt and and upon re-fitting it, it appears to be worn and I can't get it tightened again.   

 

Question - Does anyone know the size of these bolts? Can I get a replacement from a bolt and nut place or is it one of those specialized parts that I have to pay through the nose for? 

[David Marshall]

There are a few variations so a pic would help.  The "stickiness" is usually as a result of dirt in the seal inside the top cap.  To get in there you need to remove the cartridge from the fork - normal thread 24mm socket after removing the control hardware and then remove the cap from the cartridge (this is a left hand thread).  Post a picture and I can be more specific.

[Mets]

There are a few variations so a pic would help. The "stickiness" is usually as a result of dirt in the seal inside the top cap. To get in there you need to remove the cartridge from the fork - normal thread 24mm socket after removing the control hardware and then remove the cap from the cartridge (this is a left hand thread). Post a picture and I can be more specific.

Thanks for the feedback. It is the little silver screw / bolt at the top.

[lukes_handle]

I have the same fork and the little bit of movement is normal as has been explained. Also consider the air pressure before just putting more oil in. If it is correctly set for your weight then consider an oil top up.

[Mets]

I have the same fork and the little bit of movement is normal as has been explained. Also consider the air pressure before just putting more oil in. If it is correctly set for your weight then consider an oil top up.

Thanks for the input, but the shock is fine, it is the remote that is sticky. My main concern is replacing the bolt or screw which became worn without much use.