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WTB hubs, am I missing something?


M L

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Ok so I bought myself a pair of crest 29er rims, now I am searching for hubs. Going to build as the cash comes in. Want to get the hubs next and when I got the cash spokes and have a pro build them for me.

 

Thing is I came across these wtb hubs

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=49031

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=49034

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=49030

 

These hubs are well priced and weigh much lighter than hope pro's...so what's the catch?

 

I have a GT zaskar pro 29er frame, unshure of how wide the rear hub should be. 10spd setup.

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Those are American Classic hubs with a WTB label and paint job. No real catch other than they are less durable. The bearings are small and don't last very long. However, they are light and reliable. The freewheel mechanism is easy to service and when looked after, very reliable.

 

Your rear hub should be 135mm wide.

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Thanks Johan.

 

Any experience with Kore hubs? See they are R1200 front and rear and weigh about 75grams more than a R2000 set of hopes. Best pair of value for money hubs then I rate.

 

If you order ztr crest rims on kore hubs laced with DT swiss revolution spokes you get a 1605gram wheelset for a steal of R3300!

Edited by wheelerdealer
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Thanks Johan.

 

Any experience with Kore hubs? See they are R1200 front and rear and weigh about 75grams more than a R2000 set of hopes. Best pair of value for money hubs then I rate.

 

Naah, I have never come across them AFIK. Howevr, whenever you okes start weighing things I cringe and run away. What ever happened to choosing a nice colour or perhaps a durable, strong component?

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Sorry....I am still a noob so you have to forgive me.

 

I always run away when people buying speakers start talking about wattage, same concept.

 

In your opinion top 3 front and rear hubs? Considering price as well.

 

My thinking is just, you bought 370gram rims, doesn't help you stuff them up with heavy shimano xt hubs...

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Correct me if im wrong but when it comes to wheels weight really only counts on the rim and tyre in the form of rotational weight.

 

A heavier hub will contribute a lot less than a heavier rim.

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Why is it when you talk about a component that is very light, the word weak comes to mind?

 

Im 95kg's at the monent. I'm ridding on Tune hubs, some of the lightest hubs avail. they are 5 years old, serious xc. running like the are new.

 

I had them on my 26 and when I had my 29er build used the in my newly build wheels set. done another 1500km now on them with new bike xc. Run as they are new.

 

This thing of light equipment is weak is B/S.

 

You find that the most lighter equipment is manufactured from a higher standard material.

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Correct me if im wrong but when it comes to wheels weight really only counts on the rim and tyre in the form of rotational weight.

 

A heavier hub will contribute a lot less than a heavier rim.

if you go uphill its the weight that holds you back.

keep everything light as possible.. cut your toe nails if that will make a diffrence in your weight.

 

ya I think a lighter rim would be better.

 

wanna go faster, think about Rolling resistance.. now we talking. tyre pattern, tyre pressure comes into play.

 

and if you really wanna go fast .. train more often and harder.

 

my 2c worth.

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Correct me if im wrong but when it comes to wheels weight really only counts on the rim and tyre in the form of rotational weight.

 

A heavier hub will contribute a lot less than a heavier rim.

 

You are wrong, unfortunately. An old myth and fiercely debated here.

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Light - strong - cheap - pick any two.

 

Andro, how much did those Tune hubs set you back? Guessing it might be a shade over 1200 ZAR a pair. So your strength argument holds, but only in certain cases.

 

As has been said earlier - get something that's easy (and hopefully inexpensive) to get parts for and service. A busted hub means rebuilding the entire wheel, which can mean new spokes (R18 a spoke x 32 spokes = money you could have spent on a weekend away with the missus) as well as a few hundred bucks to get it properly rebuilt, so it pays to get something decent from the start. Buy cheap, buy twice.

 

Old school cup and cone XT (M765) for the budget buy, Hope Pro 2 for the middle ground and Chris King for top spot.

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I recon you boys are underselling the Hope Hubs in the "Budget" category ... it should sit up there with the CK goods.

 

I like the idea behind Hopes thinking of using industry standard bearings in their components as this keeps cost down, part are readily available and cheaper than CK custom goodies and then the Hopes are so simple to open up and service.

 

Good Old Shimano have also gotten the short end of the stick from custom wheel builds because (In my opinion) they are lacking the choice of colours that other brands offer.

 

H

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Well I would prefer to buy locally, new or second hand or new (if around the CRC price). Waiting 20 days before getting on my bike is a no go. If any one knows of second hand hopes please do let me know. maybe I will place an add.

Edited by wheelerdealer
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Well I would prefer to buy locally, new or second hand or new (if around the CRC price). Waiting 20 days before getting on my bike is a no go. If any one knows of second hand hopes please do let me know. maybe I will place an add.

 

In my experience, I would not suggest buying second hand hubs. The relatively small amount you could save would be very easily lost should you need to replace bearings or parts on the free hub. Worst case, you might have to replace the free hub body.

 

IMO not worth the risk.

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In my experience, I would not suggest buying second hand hubs. The relatively small amount you could save would be very easily lost should you need to replace bearings or parts on the free hub. Worst case, you might have to replace the free hub body.

 

IMO not worth the risk.

 

Thanks duly noted.

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