DanielJhb Posted June 5, 2015 Share Why do you feel that you need to use all the travel?Is that a serious question? If I wanted a bike with less travel I would have bought one. niterider 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZakAttak Posted June 5, 2015 Share Is that a serious question? If I wanted a bike with less travel I would have bought one.Doesn't your weight have anything to do with it? Surely a heavier oke will use more travel doing the same drops as you?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odinson Posted June 5, 2015 Share Is that a serious question? If I wanted a bike with less travel I would have bought one. Ja, meneer! Your weight, riding style, trails you ride and a whole host of other reasons could be contributing to why you aren't using full travel at the back. The front end of the bike is obviously taking the brunt of the forces working on the suspension, resulting in the rear not reaching full travel.  If it is not compromising your riding, why complain?  Also, check the shock to ensure that it is functioning properly and can actually reach full travel.  If all else fails, drop Pyga a mail and ask them. Edited June 5, 2015 by the_odinson ZakAttak 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielJhb Posted June 5, 2015 Share Doesn't your weight have anything to do with it? Surely a heavier oke will use more travel doing the same drops as you?? That would be true IF we were running the same air pressures, which we obviously aren't. Do you see Manon Carpenter or Rachel Atherton using 20% of their suspension on downhill runs? (they both weigh less than 65kg, and if you've watched Downhill before you'll see they often bottom out their bikes which have over 200mm of travel). Edited June 5, 2015 by DanielJhb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielJhb Posted June 5, 2015 Share Ja, meneer! Your weight, riding style, trails you ride and a whole host of other reasons could be contributing to why you aren't using full travel at the back. The front end of the bike is obviously taking the brunt of the forces working on the suspension, resulting in the rear not reaching full travel.  If it is not compromising your riding, why complain?  Also, check the shock to ensure that it is functioning properly and can actually reach full travel.  If all else fails, drop Pyga a mail and ask them. Question was more a technical one regarding whether or not the 120 can be run at 40%, like the 110 apparently can be (as per their website), without compromising the frame or geometry too much. I know the reason it doesn't reach full travel is the floating shock suspension design and the ramp up setting towards the bottom of the travel. Has nothing to do with riding style or trail type, guys a lot more aggressive than me aren't able to "bottom out" the 120, 140. Granted, it's not the worst "problem" in the world to have, but on bigger drops it's nice to know you using more than 90mm of travel especially when using full available 140mm at the front. I just came across a similar post from 2013 which has been of some help and have also dropped them a mail, will let you know what they say.  Edited June 5, 2015 by DanielJhb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pipsqueak Posted June 5, 2015 Share It can be smoke and mirrors, because sometimes you don't want all the travel. If the trail doesn't have drops or serious rocks its nice to have a bit of "pop" in the bike - harder suspension that doesn't dive or compress too much. It can be faster. Apparently Gwin's winning run at the last DHWC was on less travel/higher pressure. I tend to run 35% or so, and then I use the "pedal" setting a fair bit when I don't want a sloppy back end. But I'm not by any means a highly skilled rider either - this just works for me. You should give your suspension/linkages a service. Made a difference to my ride even though everything was relatively new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidewinder. Posted June 5, 2015 Share Is that a serious question? If I wanted a bike with less travel I would have bought one.I think the pyga is designed specifically not to bottom out. If you do a 2m drop to flat you're gonna bottom out tho. If the bike still feels smooth through rough stuff without bottoming out you're winning. It sounds like you want to bottom out through rock gardens...which isn't going to be fun or fast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted June 5, 2015 Share It can be smoke and mirrors, because sometimes you don't want all the travel. If the trail doesn't have drops or serious rocks its nice to have a bit of "pop" in the bike - harder suspension that doesn't dive or compress too much. It can be faster. Apparently Gwin's winning run at the last DHWC was on less travel/higher pressure. I tend to run 35% or so, and then I use the "pedal" setting a fair bit when I don't want a sloppy back end. But I'm not by any means a highly skilled rider either - this just works for me. You should give your suspension/linkages a service. Made a difference to my ride even though everything was relatively new.Gwin runs far higher pressures than pretty much everyone else on the circuit. Meant he could float over all the chunder on the floor... But the trade off is that you need to be able to hold on. One HELLUVA physical ride. Edited June 5, 2015 by El Capitan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielJhb Posted June 5, 2015 Share Gwin runs far higher pressures than pretty much everyone else on the circuit. Meant he could float over all the chunder on the floor... But the trade off is that you need to be able to hold on. One HELLUVA physical ride. I honestly still don't see how Gwin made up so much time between check points even running such stiff suspension, it was crazy, I've watched it a few times and even guys who didn't make mistakes were losing 5/6 seconds on him between checkpoints 1 and 2.  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielJhb Posted June 5, 2015 Share I think the pyga is designed specifically not to bottom out. If you do a 2m drop to flat you're gonna bottom out tho. If the bike still feels smooth through rough stuff without bottoming out you're winning. It sounds like you want to bottom out through rock gardens...which isn't going to be fun or fastAgree with you, it makes sense when you look at the design I guess. I don't want to bottom out through rock gardens - the 120 I find more sort of "skips" over rock gardens instead of getting bogged down in it's travel (a big plus in my mind) - but I would like to use more than 100mm of travel when doing reasonably sized drops or jumps. I think the linkage design "adds" to the available travel and so the o-ring probably isn't a 100% accurate way to determine how much travel you've actually used. If that makes any sense. Edited June 5, 2015 by DanielJhb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielJhb Posted June 5, 2015 Share It can be smoke and mirrors, because sometimes you don't want all the travel. If the trail doesn't have drops or serious rocks its nice to have a bit of "pop" in the bike - harder suspension that doesn't dive or compress too much. It can be faster. Apparently Gwin's winning run at the last DHWC was on less travel/higher pressure. I tend to run 35% or so, and then I use the "pedal" setting a fair bit when I don't want a sloppy back end. But I'm not by any means a highly skilled rider either - this just works for me. You should give your suspension/linkages a service. Made a difference to my ride even though everything was relatively new.Agree with you but if I had Gwin's skills I would be riding a rigid on most of our trails... Pipsqueak 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted June 5, 2015 Share I honestly still don't see how Gwin made up so much time between check points even running such stiff suspension, it was crazy, I've watched it a few times and even guys who didn't make mistakes were losing 5/6 seconds on him between checkpoints 1 and 2.  It's exactly as you say above in your other post. Being set SO stiff that he doesn't lose any momentum when he lands or hits the tech stuff. But it takes a LOT more to hold on when they're set like that.  Plus the stiffer setup allows him to put a higher percentage of his power down (less being lost to the travel) and he just skips over things where others got bogged down.  I think. That's what I saw. I mean, at that one tabletop type jump near the bottom, where everyone was landing to flat and sorta bogging down - he just carried on at the same speed.  Besides that though - he was just MEGA fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielJhb Posted June 5, 2015 Share It's exactly as you say above in your other post. Being set SO stiff that he doesn't lose any momentum when he lands or hits the tech stuff. But it takes a LOT more to hold on when they're set like that.  Plus the stiffer setup allows him to put a higher percentage of his power down (less being lost to the travel) and he just skips over things where others got bogged down.  I think. That's what I saw. I mean, at that one tabletop type jump near the bottom, where everyone was landing to flat and sorta bogging down - he just carried on at the same speed.  Besides that though - he was just MEGA fast. I hear you, it's just 6 seconds difference over one split purely because of stiffer setup is almost unbelievable, the other guys didn't seem to really make any glaring mistakes on that section. Anyway am interested to see if the other guys run their bikes a bit stiffer on Sunday, guess it will depend on the course. No one could come close to him last time I hope it's a closer race this weekend. RockCoach and Captain Fastbastard Mayhem 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedal_bob Posted June 10, 2015 Share I'm going to be doing a full service on my OneTen and one of the things I want to check are the swing arm and pivot bearings.Does anyone have a list of the bearing sized used on the 110 swing arm and pivot points? Also are there any specific brand bearings would you recommend putting in? I know the big brands like skf, fag, etc make create bearing but was wondering if there are more MTB specific bearings around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted June 10, 2015 Share You should be able to tell when you break down the frame. Bearings have the little numbers on the seals and you'll be able to check exactly what you need then... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedal_bob Posted June 10, 2015 Share You should be able to tell when you break down the frame. Bearings have the little numbers on the seals and you'll be able to check exactly what you need then... Thanks. I was hoping to preorder the bearings to reduce my down time. Jonesy k 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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