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Posted

I am switching from 3x9 26" with 11-34 to 2x10 29" with 11-36, but will be running 38-24 rings

Just waiting for one or two parts before the build takes place.

Thats the perfect combination for a 29er

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Posted

The only thing to remember when going 3x10/9 to 2x10 is that you will lose range. It's your choice to lose that range top or bottom. This should be based on skill level and riding terrain.

 

If you live in Tzaneen - keep that 3x10.

 

If you live in Bloemfontein a 1x10 should suffice.

 

Like I've said many many times - I don't see the advantage of 2x10. Makes no sense to me.

Posted

I'm not convinced either way with the 2x10. But then I ride my bike on a variety of different terrains.

 

Having got a girls bike, its got nice easy gears (I don't know the ratio). I don't need as easy a gear as on my DS as the bike just climbs so much better. Where I'm struggling is that I'm running out of gears when I do races that have flat sections or slightly downhill. Die Burger for example, going down Old Hellshoogte, I ran out of gears way before the guys around me.

 

Majority of my riding is on the singletrack so for 90% of the time, I prefer having less gears.

Posted

The only thing to remember when going 3x10/9 to 2x10 is that you will lose range. It's your choice to lose that range top or bottom. This should be based on skill level and riding terrain.

 

If you live in Tzaneen - keep that 3x10.

 

If you live in Bloemfontein a 1x10 should suffice.

 

Like I've said many many times - I don't see the advantage of 2x10. Makes no sense to me.

 

You dont loose gears. You just start riding differently. This spinning at 150 rmp doing 1.3 km/h is for the birds anyway.....2 x 10 just makes you use a little more power like on a road bike and you keep your momentum.....using a bit more mucle but gonig uphile at 4 rather than 1.3 km/h is much better for the technical stuff anyway.

 

You dont like it cause you have not tried it.

Posted

Also got the Storm1 but only after the LBS agreed to put 3x10 on. The 29" wheels makes the gears even heavier, and for climbing I want to have an as high as possible cadence up the steep climbs. The areas where I ride I need the slowest granny gear possible - very steep long climbs. I need the versatility 3x10 offers, maybe for flatter terrain 2x10 would be suitable.

Posted

You dont loose gears. You just start riding differently. This spinning at 150 rmp doing 1.3 km/h is for the birds anyway.....2 x 10 just makes you use a little more power like on a road bike and you keep your momentum.....using a bit more mucle but gonig uphile at 4 rather than 1.3 km/h is much better for the technical stuff anyway.

 

You dont like it cause you have not tried it.

 

You'll notice I didn't say gears - I said range. Triple has a 20 tooth range between biggest and smallest - double has 12-14 tooth difference. Thats the range I'm talking about.

 

A 2x10 is good enough for the vast majority of riding I agree but try racing in Tzaneen or Sabie or such like and you will either miss the convenience of a 22x36 or the fun of a 42x11.

 

What most people seem to miss is that there is no magic in a 2x10 - gearing is about ratios. 2x10 has less and a narrower range than 3x10.

 

3x10 is like an insurance policy - you don't use it daily but wish you had it when you find yourself up **** creek without a paddle.

Posted

Ride a 29er been on 1x10 for past two months, 38 (rotor) and 11/36 at back, works for me.

 

just like the 1x10.

 

Will upgrade to 1x11 begin next year.

Posted

I was a 2 x 10 convert !! told everyone its the best thing since sliced bread .

 

just got back from 4 days in Magoebaskloof and the first thing going is the 2x10 . 3 x10 back on .

 

FFS i rode 70 km on the one day and did 1900m of climbing , the one climb was 14km at 12percent avg gradiant .

 

2x10 in jhb is great .

 

But when you need 3x10 you figgen need it !!!!

Posted

I was a 2 x 10 convert !! told everyone its the best thing since sliced bread .

 

just got back from 4 days in Magoebaskloof and the first thing going is the 2x10 . 3 x10 back on .

 

FFS i rode 70 km on the one day and did 1900m of climbing , the one climb was 14km at 12percent avg gradiant .

 

2x10 in jhb is great .

 

But when you need 3x10 you figgen need it !!!!

You were riding when you should have been walking
Posted

I was a 2 x 10 convert !! told everyone its the best thing since sliced bread .

 

just got back from 4 days in Magoebaskloof and the first thing going is the 2x10 . 3 x10 back on .

 

FFS i rode 70 km on the one day and did 1900m of climbing , the one climb was 14km at 12percent avg gradiant .

 

2x10 in jhb is great .

 

But when you need 3x10 you figgen need it !!!!

 

Just a question... and bear in mind, I've never been to Magoebas...

 

What about rule no 5..?

 

Would it make a diffrence?

Posted

I was a 2 x 10 convert !! told everyone its the best thing since sliced bread .

 

just got back from 4 days in Magoebaskloof and the first thing going is the 2x10 . 3 x10 back on .

 

FFS i rode 70 km on the one day and did 1900m of climbing , the one climb was 14km at 12percent avg gradiant .

 

2x10 in jhb is great .

 

But when you need 3x10 you figgen need it !!!!

 

What was your smallest chainring on the 2x10 - a 26? If so I would have a similar feeling to you. I use the 24 chainring on my XT 3x10 and am very grateful to have it. I couldn't pull a 26 with any real comfort up some of the climbs I've done this year.

 

But with Shimano now supplying a 24 on a 2x10 chainring I can't help but think that 24/38 on a 2x10 is the way to go. I agree with Eldron about range being the relevant point of a 2x10 vs 3x10 debate and for me the lower end of the range is most relevant. But to be honest I don't know how often I would use/miss a 42/11 when a 38/11 with a aero tuck and freewheel will probably be as fast?

Posted

But with Shimano now supplying a 24 on a 2x10 chainring I can't help but think that 24/38 on a 2x10 is the way to go. I agree with Eldron about range being the relevant point of a 2x10 vs 3x10 debate and for me the lower end of the range is most relevant. But to be honest I don't know how often I would use/miss a 42/11 when a 38/11 with a aero tuck and freewheel will probably be as fast?

 

The problem with 2x10 is that you're always forced into compromise - there just isn't the range.

 

If your bike came with a 2x10 then the compromise makes sense. It's cheaper than buying a new crank.

 

What I don't understand is why anyone would want to take their 3x10 off and spend money to limit themselves.

 

Me - I race everything from XCO to XCM and stage racing. The 3x10 does it all. XCO mostly granny and middle, XCM mostly middle and big, stage racing - every frikkin one of the 30 gears on my bike!

Posted (edited)

The problem with 2x10 is that you're always forced into compromise - there just isn't the range.

 

If your bike came with a 2x10 then the compromise makes sense. It's cheaper than buying a new crank.

 

What I don't understand is why anyone would want to take their 3x10 off and spend money to limit themselves.

 

Me - I race everything from XCO to XCM and stage racing. The 3x10 does it all. XCO mostly granny and middle, XCM mostly middle and big, stage racing - every frikkin one of the 30 gears on my bike!

 

You're right - I wanted Shimano XT on my bike when I built it last year and I thought I wanted 2x10. But with shimano then only offering a 26 tooth chainring on the 2x10 I knew I had to go for the 3x10 which offered a 24. Even then the change from a 26er on 3x9 with a 22t chainring to a 29er on big volume tyres with a 24t took some getting used to and there were a few times, at the Garden Route 300 in particular, that I wished I had a lower gear to spin out when I was at my limit . But like you I'm certainly not going to spend money on a new crankset just for the sake of having a 2x10. When I need to upgrade I'll certainly look at 2x10 (not sure I'm up to running 1x11 or can get my head around a cluster the size of a side plate).

Edited by sometime

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