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Selecting the right "tools for the job" - what type of bike should I buy?


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You think Oscar Pistorius's technical team had a problem determining the right blades for him - that is kindergarden stuff if we start talking about bike design! Which one fits your riding style?

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Many 2013 bikes are already on display on the web, and they have all been decorated with one goal in mind: To look very appealing! That reminds me of one of the BIG issues of being a cyclist - when do I upgrade my bike?

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Many 2013 bikes are already on display on the web, and they have all been decorated with one goal in mind: To look very appealing! That reminds me of one of the BIG issues of being a cyclist - when do I upgrade my bike?

 

Geez like still flogging a dead horse.

Making common sense observations and then trying to charge someone for the favour.

What next?

When do I upgrade - when I have more money is the correct answer......

 

That reminds me - How long is a piece of string?

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Wanneer jy jou fiets wil opgradeer maar dit onderhewig is aan die verkoop van jou huidige fiets is 'n goeie manier om die huidige waarde van jou fiets te bepaal om die aankoopprys van jou huidige fiets te neem, 40%daarvan af te trek vir die 1ste jaar en daarna 10% vir elke jaar daarna wat jy die fiets het.

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Upgrade when you feel like it. Or don't upgrade, just get another. Remember the rules? n+1?

 

But I have no idea what you are saying above except I do recognise 40% and 10%. But the context is lost on me.

 

Bored us to death with battle plans. But wait, there's more, now we need economics lessons on the perfect time to get a new bike?

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Upgrade when you feel like it. Or don't upgrade, just get another. Remember the rules? n+1?

 

But I have no idea what you are saying above except I do recognise 40% and 10%. But the context is lost on me.

 

Bored us to death with battle plans. But wait, there's more, now we need economics lessons on the perfect time to get a new bike?

 

There are certain things you never say and certain questions you never ask - like asking your teenage son "Do you thing I'm stupid". Outside he says "no" but inside you know he says "yes" ...

 

But when is the perfect time to get a new bike? Is it every time you can afford it?

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But I have no idea what you are saying above except I do recognise 40% and 10%. But the context is lost on me.

Depreciation is what he's getting at. But it doesn't in any fashion tell you when your bike is kaput. Upgrades on a bike screws that one up. My one bike is 8 years old (well the frame, that is), but the components are brand new and the frame performs just as well as a brand new one.

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Bicycle ranges are updated every year, sometimes only with a new paint job. What do you use to guide your next upgrade - do you rely solely on the sales person or do you make sure you acquire some knowledge before you part with your cash. Like which is better to buy, a 29er 100mm travel dual suspension or 26er 140mm travel dual suspension when you have a limited budget (like we all have)?

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Bicycle ranges are updated every year, sometimes only with a new paint job. What do you use to guide your next upgrade - do you rely solely on the sales person or do you make sure you acquire some knowledge before you part with your cash. Like which is better to buy, a 29er 100mm travel dual suspension or 26er 140mm travel dual suspension when you have a limited budget (like we all have)?

 

What-mountain-bike bike of the year shootout. Works everytime.

 

29ers are the best, everyone knows that.

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Talking about dual suspension, what differentiate single pivot from 4-bar linkage and when does which one work better? .... why is one frame more expensive than another

 

Shame on you for not mentioning the Zero Pivot option! As for fancy prices, generally related to the posher shops .... 'location location location'

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What-mountain-bike bike of the year shootout. Works everytime.

 

29ers are the best, everyone knows that.

 

If that is so, why are there no 29er downhill bikes commercially available? Your comment is valid from a certain perspective, but is it not application dependable?

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What-mountain-bike bike of the year shootout. Works everytime.

 

29ers are the best, everyone knows that.

Go Rouxtjie

as dinge so aangaan het ons weer 'n lekker lees en lag thread soos daai anner Battle Plan ene. Ek wens ek was so slim soos sekere mense. Is seker maar stupid, ek klim net op my fiets (nogals 'n rooie) en ry. :whistling:

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Shame on you for not mentioning the Zero Pivot option! As for fancy prices, generally related to the posher shops .... 'location location location'

 

Remember the perfect bike has yet to be designed! Single pivot is mainly used where you need lots of travel, like with downhill. The biggest down-side with the design is the trajectory of the rear wheel which is elliptical, implying "chain growth" when pedaling hard and you suddenly ride over a rock with the rear wheel. With 4-bar linkage you can fit a link like the Horst-link that results in a better rear wheel trajectory, saving energy in that context as you have better movement control. Down-side with 4-bar is lots of pivot points which equates to more flex potential. Zero pivot is becoming popular but is like a "purist" clan. I grew up on single speed hardtail fixed fork so I like my "comfort". If you're really budget conscious I would suggest hardtail, good suspension fork and fat takkies (with multidirectional casing) used a lower presure. That should take care of your small bump absorption.

 

With carbon frames the flex in the frame can be controlled better as most of them are hand crafted and direction and layers of carbon can be manipulated. With aluminium, techniques like hydro-forming, butting, extrusion techniques and others are used to ensure surface tension that eliminates unwanted flex, are used, all adding zeros to the price. Remember what Tom Ritchey said - in cycling, pick 2 of cheap, strong and light, and forget about the 3rd one.

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Remember the perfect bike has yet to be designed! Single pivot is mainly used where you need lots of travel, like with downhill. The biggest down-side with the design is the trajectory of the rear wheel which is elliptical, implying "chain growth" when pedaling hard and you suddenly ride over a rock with the rear wheel. With 4-bar linkage you can fit a link like the Horst-link that results in a better rear wheel trajectory, saving energy in that context as you have better movement control. Down-side with 4-bar is lots of pivot points which equates to more flex potential. Zero pivot is becoming popular but is like a "purist" clan. I grew up on single speed hardtail fixed fork so I like my "comfort". If you're really budget conscious I would suggest hardtail, good suspension fork and fat takkies (with multidirectional casing) used a lower presure. That should take care of your small bump absorption.

 

With carbon frames the flex in the frame can be controlled better as most of them are hand crafted and direction and layers of carbon can be manipulated. With aluminium, techniques like hydro-forming, butting, extrusion techniques and others are used to ensure surface tension that eliminates unwanted flex, are used, all adding zeros to the price. Remember what Tom Ritchey said - in cycling, pick 2 of cheap, strong and light, and forget about the 3rd one.

Haha lets all copy and paste crap from google that we really dont know much about but we read it on google so it must be true.
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Haha lets all copy and paste crap from google that we really dont know much about but we read it on google so it must be true.

 

How many different bikes have you used (not merely tested) over the past 3 years - remember mountain biking is an experiment and if you cannot talk from experience you also practice "true crap you find on Google".

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