Why is Tubeless better.

[arendoog]

If you ride rocky sections ,you want lower tyre pressures for grip and comfort 1.6 to 1.8 bar works for my 95kg .If a tubeless is at 1.6 bar You will get a snake bite unless you weigh 30kg .Last snakebite made 4 holes in the tube .Put new conti protection on and no punctures in last 9 months .I ride them at 1.6bar F 1.8 R

[TheV]

I run actual tubeless tires (Conti's) on "real" UST wheels (easton haven), my weight is about 88kg's and I run front at 2.0 and rear at about 2.2, works really well for me....

 

oh yeah, and i carry a tjooop and a couple of parktool side wall stips/patches - never had to use them...(yet).

[arendoog]

Having recently converted to tubeless, I feel like I have more control of the bike in corners. When I feel like the bike is sliding, I can counter. Never had any puncture issues with tubes, ran slime in the tubes and liners. I also prefer the lower pressure. Tubes were 3bar + and tubeless is 2bar front and back

Lower your pressures even more ,makes for great riding

[GLuvsMtb]

At this stage you are back in the 90's and use words like "this is like so cool, dude" jou-ma-se-#$%%$-van-n-tyre

I fixed it...

...and you pray that you've got most of the thorns out that may be sticking through on the inside of the tyre.

[blind]

Well that little bit off info changes EVERYTHING!

 

I now might consider tubeless as my next upgrade

 

Im such a noob lol

 

Thanks for all the info guys!

[rouxtjie]

if all things been equal. tubeless is heavier conti mountain king II folding tire - 620g (26 x 2.2) / 680g (26 x 2.4) Continental MTB 26 Butyl Tyre Tube - 200g total wieght 820g conti mountain king II UST - 820g / 880g plus 125ml or roughly 125g of sealant total wieght 945g and if you still need to a conversion kit you go over Kg

But hold the horse boerewors

 

You dont HAVE to ust tyres to do a conversion, so all things aren't equal. My setup of tape + sealant + valve on Stan's rims with Schwalbe RR snakeskin will be lighter than if I had to use tubes. The Snakeskin tyres is a non-negotiable for me...tubes or not

[rouxtjie]

My only worry is getting the Geax off the rim........

1 bottle of jaeger...green crowbar tyre levers + 5 jou ma se porches = tyre comes off

[lyslexic]

Lower your pressures even more ,makes for great riding

 

Once I lose more weight I will. us fattys can't have the pressure too low.

[Grebel]

No one knows if tubeless wheels ever get punctures, because if they do you wont know... it's like when a tree falls in the forest and no one hears it, does it really fall?

 

Oh it falls, we just not sure if it makes a noise....

[jcza]

1 bottle of jaeger...green crowbar tyre levers + 5 jou ma se porches = tyre comes off

 

I'm dreading the day I need to tjoop that Geax but its wearing down so slowly I'll only be replacing it next year! I'd better start carrying proper tyre levers. Last time I tjooped the RR I didn't even need a tyre lever.

[Wyatt Earp]

What I enjoy most about tubeless is it's puncture resistance.

I won't dispute that slime filled tubes can't offer that, but I have been let down way too often.

 

The downside with a dinosaur condom lined tyre (tjoop), the volume of air is considerably lower than in a tubeless tyre.

So one little prick and you hardly notice the loss of air.

But that's a year long debate.

 

The tubeless stuff was pushed for, as riders were getting endless snake bites as a result of riding lower pressures than what the tires and tubes could handle.

You see, then we only had hardtails and 60 mm. travel shocks on baby wheels.

 

The U.S.T. system was introduced, I remember riding this with some Michelins and no sealant (that's what we were told was all that was needed)

Tried some of the sealant we got for tjoobs, but fail yet again.

 

Eventually bough latex from the apteek and almost finished every ride looking like a dominatrix.

 

Thank goodness for Stan and his sealant.

 

Nowadays we are spoilt for choice, Batseal being my personal choice.

Point I am trying to make, tubeless was never really introduced as a puncture resistant alternative, bottom line is, it sure as heck makes a convincing argument in favor of it.

 

Ok, I am now out.

[scotty]

Been riding 26" with slime tubes since i first started MTB +/- six years and in all that time i have never had a flat in a race and only a few times in training. My 29'er riding with RR evos's and slime tubes i punctured my 1st ride, again a week later and quite regularly after, so i converted to tubeless and Geax TNT's and going on a month now have had no flat tyre issues.

[patches]

My only worry is getting the Geax off the rim........

1 bottle of jaeger...green crowbar tyre levers + 5 jou ma se porches = tyre comes off

I'm dreading the day I need to tjoop that Geax but its wearing down so slowly I'll only be replacing it next year! I'd better start carrying proper tyre levers. Last time I tjooped the RR I didn't even need a tyre lever.

 

Geax tyres aren't that bad to get on and off (especially compared to dual ply High Rollers or Big Betties)...

 

There's a trick to it you see... pinch the beads together and push them into the 'V' of the rim. Then pick a point to lever from, and take up all the slack to that point. Easy peasy! In fact last time I did this I took my AKA off without a lever.

[jcza]

Geax tyres aren't that bad to get on and off (especially compared to dual ply High Rollers or Big Betties)...

 

There's a trick to it you see... pinch the beads together and push them into the 'V' of the rim. Then pick a point to lever from, and take up all the slack to that point. Easy peasy! In fact last time I did this I took my AKA off without a lever.

 

Cheers patches! Hoping I won't have to..........ever.

[rouxtjie]

Geax tyres aren't that bad to get on and off (especially compared to dual ply High Rollers or Big Betties)...

 

There's a trick to it you see... pinch the beads together and push them into the 'V' of the rim. Then pick a point to lever from, and take up all the slack to that point. Easy peasy! In fact last time I did this I took my AKA off without a lever.

Welding torch?...grappie....You told me about that trick and yes it is much easier. But I find that on stan's rims, I still need about half a bottle of jaeger and 2 swear words. Shot patches

[patches]

I run tubeless on 2 of my bikes. One runs Geax TNT's (AKA front, Saguaro rear) on 'ghetto conversion' rims. The other runs Mountainking Tubeless front and rear on Mavic tubeless rims.

 

The Geax bike has been running like that for about a year now and I've had only 2 flats. One from cornering to hard and rolling the tyre off the rim. One from slashing it on a rock (6mm cut). In each case the repair took 2 min. For the cut I just spun the wheel to spread the sealant, then repumped. The rolled tyre I just whiped clean reseated, re-inflated.

 

On the Continental bike (9 months old) I have had 1... a slash. Unfortunately too big for sealant to take care of. But 1 in 9 months... not bad.

 

As far as pressures are concerned, I still run mine quite hard. I hate the feeling of a rear tyre rolling on the rim when railing a berm or boosting for a jump. Also... I'm not keen on burping the tyres whn landing hard.