2x10 drivetrain - derailleur skipping

[sjeants]

Hi there,

 

I'm new to the sram 2x10 groupset but have been plagued with the chain skipping when I run on the large chainring and the large ring on the cassette. Vice versa for small chain ring and small ring on the cassette. On my 3x9 groupset I never ran this way ( tried to keep it as straight as possible ) but thought that with 2x10 you could you the full range of gears for each chainring. Am I misusing the groupset - I have had the setup checked and my LBS says that it is correctly set up.

 

Advice is appreciated

[usxorf]

I run the full range of gearing on my sram 2x10, so you should be able to as well. There are a lot of factors which can affect how smoothly the gears run, but the easiest thing to check is that the rear derailleur top pulley is aligned with the cassette cog that you're skipping on.

[Guest Latent Blue]

What you are doing is called crosschaining.

dont shift though the whole lot of rear cogs before you change in the front.

 

My rule of thumb...

 

With small chainring: dont combine with 3smallest at the rear

 

With large chainring: dont combine it with 3 largest gearsbat the rear...

 

Otherwise ull kill ur chain and rings!

 

Edited June 22, 2013 by Latent Blue

[wapad]

2x 10 should operate through full range of gears, I had the same issue and resolved it by putting 2-3 extra links in the chain. When it Large ring rear and front see how far towards the crank the deraillier pulls.

 

Its not ideal to run like that but it should operate through full range

 

adjusting the barrel adjuster on the shifter could also help but I reckon your problem is chain length..

[Guest Latent Blue]

Oh ok ... then I was mistaken. ..

 

Take the other guys' advice

[Skylark]

2x10 correctly setup you can run any combination, that's why it's so awesome!!

Your LBS must be hellva sh1e if they can't solve such a basic problem.....

 

[Ryanpmb]

Hi there,

 

I'm new to the sram 2x10 groupset but have been plagued with the chain skipping when I run on the large chainring and the large ring on the cassette. Vice versa for small chain ring and small ring on the cassette. On my 3x9 groupset I never ran this way ( tried to keep it as straight as possible ) but thought that with 2x10 you could you the full range of gears for each chainring. Am I misusing the groupset - I have had the setup checked and my LBS says that it is correctly set up.

 

Advice is appreciated

What size cassette and chainrings are you running?

[Stretch]

I ride on my 42 big ring and 36 rear big all the time...it is definitely not cross chaining. When you say slipping...do you mean slipping off the ring (then your front der needs tweaking) or slipping on the cogs (then you chin length is wrong or your drive train is worn)

[majestic]

have your hanger bracket checked , could be bent.

[sjeants]

What size cassette and chainrings are you running?

 

Cassette is SRAM PG-1050, 10-speed, 11-36

Chainrings 36/22

All stock on the bike and are new

[sjeants]

I ride on my 42 big ring and 36 rear big all the time...it is definitely not cross chaining. When you say slipping...do you mean slipping off the ring (then your front der needs tweaking) or slipping on the cogs (then you chin length is wrong or your drive train is worn)

 

Doesn't slip off the chainring but slips on the cogs - perplexing thing is that when you run it without load e.g. On a work stand then shifting is crisp but under certain conditions under load it slips. My LBS has worked on it and I can agree with them that it is strange because it only happens occasionally in under specific conditions. The derailleur has been sent to SRAM who can't find anything wrong

[sjeants]

have your hanger bracket checked , could be bent.

 

Will check this - it is a new bike 4 months old but I have done a Sani on it. Bike is meticulously maintained but will check and maybe just replace the hanger

[majestic]

May I ask what Bike is it?

[madmarc]

I also run 2 X 10 with 11/36 cassette and 39/26 chainrings. As many have said you can run across the full spectrum of gears. Also had lots of trouble with the set up until I decided to get it sorted myself. this is what I did

 

make sure you chain length is correct, I have a calculator but need certain dims off your bike. Another way is to wrap the chain on the big chain ring and big cog on the rear and then add 1 link.

 

Make sure your B adjustment screw is correct. when you are in your 36 cog on the back there should be a 6mm gap between your top der pulley and the 36 cog. Lots of setups done by LBS have a much larger gap, because they don't seem to read SRAM instruction manuals.

 

Make sure your L & H Der screws are set perfectly. Remove the chain and release the cable, check the Der pulley alignment on both the 11 and 36 cogs by pushing the Der by hand. Connect the cable and check it again by shifting the Der with your shifter if it needs adjustment then adjust with the barrel adjuster on the shifter. Many mechanics pull the cable to tight when clamping it on the Der.

 

check your cable routing, especially if it's a full suspension bike. Here once again, if the cable is too tight it will ghost shift under load, or there will be a delay in shifting down from the 36 cog on to smaller cogs.

 

also make sure you Der pulley's are not cracked or broken.

 

with your gear ratio you should be running long cage Der.

 

I have a TREK superfly full susser and when I climbed a steep embankment standing up in the 36 cog it shifted down....not cool!!!.....on the bike stand shifting it shifted perfect. I cannot pinpoint what the actual problem was but when I finished doing all the above it was Schweet.

 

when all else fails take it to JB at Yellow Saddle

[geoff.rich]

Gotta get myself a 2x10! it sounds great

[Skylark]

I also run 2 X 10 with 11/36 cassette and 39/26 chainrings. As many have said you can run across the full spectrum of gears. Also had lots of trouble with the set up until I decided to get it sorted myself. this is what I did

 

make sure you chain length is correct, I have a calculator but need certain dims off your bike. Another way is to wrap the chain on the big chain ring and big cog on the rear and then add 1 link.

 

Make sure your B adjustment screw is correct. when you are in your 36 cog on the back there should be a 6mm gap between your top der pulley and the 36 cog. Lots of setups done by LBS have a much larger gap, because they don't seem to read SRAM instruction manuals.

 

Make sure your L & H Der screws are set perfectly. Remove the chain and release the cable, check the Der pulley alignment on both the 11 and 36 cogs by pushing the Der by hand. Connect the cable and check it again by shifting the Der with your shifter if it needs adjustment then adjust with the barrel adjuster on the shifter. Many mechanics pull the cable to tight when clamping it on the Der.

 

check your cable routing, especially if it's a full suspension bike. Here once again, if the cable is too tight it will ghost shift under load, or there will be a delay in shifting down from the 36 cog on to smaller cogs.

 

also make sure you Der pulley's are not cracked or broken.

 

with your gear ratio you should be running long cage Der.

 

I have a TREK superfly full susser and when I climbed a steep embankment standing up in the 36 cog it shifted down....not cool!!!.....on the bike stand shifting it shifted perfect. I cannot pinpoint what the actual problem was but when I finished doing all the above it was Schweet.

 

when all else fails take it to JB at Yellow Saddle

 

If you do all that you must sort out the problem.

 

Or else your chain and cassette must be to worn - things can often look fine but the actual wear esp on certain cogs may be toast....

Wear is a result of the amount of useage and type of conditions not age.

 

Seriously the OP's Lbs must be dorff, not rocket science this - if they suspect the RD or whatever just fit parts they know are good and then test and work from there.

Called trouble shooting, looks like they are lazily just passing the buck...