If going tubeless means not having to go through this, where do I sign up?

[Uni]

Thanks all. When I went to the bike shop to get a tube 8 months ago, they asked me what size and I answered with a confused look. They assumed 26" and I took them, not realizing there were different valves.

 

Some questions:

- is the presto valve the one more commonly used on bikes? Is there any benefit of one over the other? This front wheel is a replacement wheel after I buckled it beyond repair, I should probably check what's in my back tyre. :-\

- If i do one of these ghetto conversions, Does it matter what kind of bike?

- does the wheel rim matter or is it just the tyre.

- i see mention of tubeless ready - how would I know?

- slime / sealants just mean that you'll get punctures less often - sort of fixing them from the inside?

- can you put slime/ sealant in any tyre?

- are there new bikes that you buy with tubeless tyres? How much more cost wise?

 

 

[RockCoach]

Thanks all. When I went to the bike shop to get a tube 8 months ago, they asked me what size and I answered with a confused look. They assumed 26" and I took them, not realizing there were different valves.

 

Some questions:

- is the presto valve the one more commonly used on bikes?

Presta is more common.

 

Is there any benefit of one over the other? This front wheel is a replacement wheel after I buckled it beyond repair, I should probably check what's in my back tyre. :-\

Presta has the abilty to run a tubeless set up. The valve core can be removed/replaced. The valve comes in different lengths to suit higher profile rims. Schraeder needs a bigger hole in the rim.

 

- If i do one of these ghetto conversions, Does it matter what kind of bike?

No, it only matters what type of rim and tyre.

 

- does the wheel rim matter or is it just the tyre.

Rim matters but most rims will work.

 

- i see mention of tubeless ready - how would I know?

All tyres which have a folding bead (instead of a wire bead) will work. However you do get tyres which are specifically made for tubeless.

 

- slime / sealants just mean that you'll get punctures less often - sort of fixing them from the inside?

Yep.

 

- can you put slime/ sealant in any tyre?

No. Not tyres with wire beads. You can tell if it is wire bead if it holds its round shape when off the wheel. Folding bead will... well... flop and fold over.

 

- are there new bikes that you buy with tubeless tyres? How much more cost wise?

Yes you can but it's not worth it. Even if you need new tyres, rim tape, tubeless valves and sealant, the whole conversion shouldn't cost more than R1500.

 

Edited August 25, 2013 by SLiiick

[kosmonooit]

- can you put slime/ sealant in any tyre?

No. Not tyres with wire beads. You can tell if it is wire bead if it holds its round shape when off the wheel. Folding bead will... well... flop and fold over.

 

Every tyre has a bead, otherwise it wouldn't hold onto the rim. Foldable and other non-wire just have a different type of light weight material that hold the tyre onto the rim.

 

Tubeless tyres have other different characteristics, some use non-tubeless as tubeless, not recommended though.

[RockCoach]

 

 

Every tyre has a bead, otherwise it wouldn't hold onto the rim. Foldable and other non-wire just have a different type of light weight material that hold the tyre onto the rim.

 

Tubeless tyres have other different characteristics, some use non-tubeless as tubeless, not recommended though.

 

 

All tyres which have a folding bead (instead of a wire bead) will work.

Does my statement above not imply that all tyres have a bead?

 

[kosmonooit]

Does my statement above not imply that all tyres have a bead?

 

Indeed - what I meant to say its not the lack of wire bead that define a tubeless

[Dicky DQ]

OKI seem to be missing something, going tubeless is not that dear. To do a tubeless ghetto conversion will not cost more than about 400 ZAR, 2 x 26" tubes for a 29'r or 24" for 26" conversion (90 ZAR for the 2). Stans for 2 Tyres 250 - 300 ZAR (Ibelieve this is better than anything out there and is waaay to dear, but so it is)

 

You can also go the gorilla tape and tubeless valves which will cost a bit more.

 

you do not need to change the tyres, unless you are a serious sidwall slayer, ride the current tyres till they are toast and then replace with tubeless tyres.

 

I am still ring with a Racing Ralph non tubless in front and a Maxis Icone Tubless at the rear. Been this was for almost 2 years now and included was the TransKaroo and the Trans Baviaans. Never had a puncture issue but have had to top up the Stans 4 times.

 

Tubless just works.

[scotty]

Check rim vs tire combo as well, certain tires are easier and fit better on some rims

[Capricorn]

Thanks all. When I went to the bike shop to get a tube 8 months ago, they asked me what size and I answered with a confused look. They assumed 26" and I took them, not realizing there were different valves.

 

Some questions:

- is the presto valve the one more commonly used on bikes? Is there any benefit of one over the other? This front wheel is a replacement wheel after I buckled it beyond repair, I should probably check what's in my back tyre. :-\ If you going tubeless, the one nice benefit of the presta valve is the removable core: if you unscrew this, you can pour in the replacement sealant, when the time comes to top up. It's a no fuss, little mess bit of convenience you'll greatly appreciate.

 

- If i do one of these ghetto conversions, Does it matter what kind of bike?

- does the wheel rim matter or is it just the tyre. Anything can be converted to tubeless these days. Your LBS can convert your current setup into a 'ghetto tubeless' setup. Easypeasy. At some point, when you decide to upgrade your wheels, or change your whole bike, think of wheels that are tubeless compatible. Then you slap on just about any tyre, but by then, i'm sure you can decide upon TLR, or tubeless ready tyres in the process.

 

- i see mention of tubeless ready - how would I know? It will say so on wheel brochure, or the tyre sidewall/brochure. Fore tyres, what TLR means is that the bead is fully UST (universal standard for tubeless) compatible, but the rest of the carcass isn't. Fully UST compatible tyres do not require sealant, but it's added anyway. TLR most definitely requires sealant as the carcass is often too porous to be airtight. Makes the TLR tyre slightly lighter than fully UST compatible tyres, but that's neither here nor there. TLR is more than enough. Almost all my tyres, from trail,road to DH bike are all TLR.

 

- slime / sealants just mean that you'll get punctures less often - sort of fixing them from the inside? That is the correct. The sealing agent in the sealant blocks up the little holes and seals over time. you do lose some pressure in the process, but generally, you wont lose so much pressure so that you have to reinflate immediately. It's really amazing what the stuff does. But do yourself a favor and choose Stan's sealant. The best sealant by far!.

 

- can you put slime/ sealant in any tyre? Yes!

 

- are there new bikes that you buy with tubeless tyres? How much more cost wise? It depends on the tyre and wheel combo, and the type of tyre. But the cost is worth the massive reduction in costs and hassles associated with replacing tubes.

[Uni]

Thanks for the useful and mostly easy to understand comments.

 

Looks like I'm going to be putting some money into my LBS's koffers. I'll take my wheels in tomorrow and see what they think and how much it will set me back - either going tubeless or putting some slime in. Might just go with slime until I upgrade my bike - seems logical.

 

I don't think I'm cut out for a DIY job, even if the youtube videos make it look easy.

[RockCoach]

OKI seem to be missing something, going tubeless is not that dear. To do a tubeless ghetto conversion will not cost more than about 400 ZAR, 2 x 26" tubes for a 29'r or 24" for 26" conversion (90 ZAR for the 2). Stans for 2 Tyres 250 - 300 ZAR (Ibelieve this is better than anything out there and is waaay to dear, but so it is)

 

You can also go the gorilla tape and tubeless valves which will cost a bit more.

 

you do not need to change the tyres, unless you are a serious sidwall slayer, ride the current tyres till they are toast and then replace with tubeless tyres.

 

I am still ring with a Racing Ralph non tubless in front and a Maxis Icone Tubless at the rear. Been this was for almost 2 years now and included was the TransKaroo and the Trans Baviaans. Never had a puncture issue but have had to top up the Stans 4 times.

 

Tubless just works.

 

Yeah. My R1500 estimate was worst case scenario in the event that you had to include new tyres.

 

[Uni]

So if there's a biggest "box" award on the hub, I'm a contender. Turns out my pump can work on the presto, I just wasn't using it correctly. *sigh* never assume that surely the noobies must know.

[Warren911]

Nice one, got to learn somehow. In this game you never stop learning.

 

So if there's a biggest "box" award on the hub, I'm a contender. Turns out my pump can work on the presto, I just wasn't using it correctly. *sigh* never assume that surely the noobies must know.

[schizo]

So if there's a biggest "box" award on the hub, I'm a contender. Turns out my pump can work on the presto, I just wasn't using it correctly. *sigh* never assume that surely the noobies must know.

Or you can learn this the hard way like my brother did on the Trailseeker, But he was stuck with a scrader spare tube, thinking his pump only worked with presto, tried to patch his snake bitten tube, didn't come right with that till the emergency car came around... That same race I learnt that you have to unscrew the value thing at the bottom of a scrader tube to pump it up, because I've only used presto values. Lessons were learnt!

[buffy]

Am I missing something with tubeles.

 

Did 35 km at Northern Farms on Sunday as I came out of the river section I hit a rock and cut in the sidewall. Carried my bike 5km back to the clubhouse. Tried to glue the tyre and then put the powder in, Pumped with a bomb but leaked out. The slime had stuck the tire to the rim no way I could get a tube in. Took my bike to Linden for new tyre R700 odd rand.

 

When I had tubes just replaced and off I went.

 

Any advice please?

[Vetseun]

Am I missing something with tubeles.

 

Did 35 km at Northern Farms on Sunday as I came out of the river section I hit a rock and cut in the sidewall. Carried my bike 5km back to the clubhouse. Tried to glue the tyre and then put the powder in, Pumped with a bomb but leaked out. The slime had stuck the tire to the rim no way I could get a tube in. Took my bike to Linden for new tyre R700 odd rand.

 

When I had tubes just replaced and off I went.

 

Any advice please?

Here is some advice Buffy. Stay tubeless. In the long run it remains the right decision

[buffy]

Here is some advice Buffy. Stay tubeless. In the long run it remains the right decision

Thanks Vetseun maybe I should take a cell phone with me next time.