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Posted

yeah but hayley's like, shorter than Iwan, and I doubt she has a spare 40mm stem she carries in her purse!

You never know what is in a ladies purse!
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Posted

I'm a bit confused, maybe I haven't been paying enough attention. :rolleyes:

Are you going to be spraying over the yellow with Black?

If yes, will this not affect the warranty of the frame?

 

Definitely not been paying attention! I'm using matte black PlastiDip to cover up the Vitamin-P yellow. It's a spray-on vinyl that can easily be removed. Hopefully you'll never find out, but Ibis' CS is second to none. I even got the okay from them to drill out a riv-nut as long as I didn't drill into or damage the carbon.

 

They're not the types who will refuse a...let's say cracked rear tri just cause you sprayed the frame. Read a post where Scott (Mr Ibis) said for them CS stands for customer service, but also common sense.

Posted

Nope. It's an application on top of the existing paintwork, and does not affect the paintwork in any way.

 

 

Yep.

 

It's not like he's sanding it down or anything!

 

So let me get this straight.

The black bits between the yellow now have green plastidip masking them.

So you gonna put black plastidip over the yellow bits?

Posted
So let me get this straight.

The black bits between the yellow now have green plastidip masking them.

So you gonna put black plastidip over the yellow bits?

 

The black bits between the yellow has finite tape over it. This is to cover it when we plastidip all the yellow bits. Idea was to keep the "chevron" look by keeping the frame's carbon black like it is between the yellow bits which will become matte black plastidip. Figured it will look better than having a solid slab of plastidip on tt, dd and rear tri.

 

In short: only PlastiDipping the yellow bits.

Posted

The black bits between the yellow has finite tape over it. This is to cover it when we plastidip all the yellow bits. Idea was to keep the "chevron" look by keeping the frame's carbon black like it is between the yellow bits which will become matte black plastidip. Figured it will look better than having a solid slab of plastidip on tt, dd and rear tri.

 

In short: only PlastiDipping the yellow bits.

 

Ah, got it!

The confusion set in when I thought the green was plastidip :)

How thick does the plastidip go on? Will it not look a bit odd if it is too raised?

Posted

Maybe. We'll see and then take it from there. May have to go several layers to cover the yellow. If it looks off then I will remove it and try vinyl decals. If that doesn't work it's back to zeff with a capital p.

Posted (edited)

But, I'll never know if I don't try...

 

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Hxj16iRXpK0/T8T3RQPbA2I/AAAAAAAAC3Y/GjXVODPXB38/s1600/woody-allen-quotes-myperfectline-com-11.jpg

Edited by The Crow
Posted (edited)

But, I'll never know if I don't try...

 

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Hxj16iRXpK0/T8T3RQPbA2I/AAAAAAAAC3Y/GjXVODPXB38/s1600/woody-allen-quotes-myperfectline-com-11.jpg

 

Last I heard Allen fail was when he was caught seducing little kids.. does that still count as innovative?

 

Sorry..

Edited by Pain or shine
Posted

how hard wearing is the plastidip? If you can remove it easily enough, as soon as you get the wear and tear scratches on the frame, the yellow will show through straight away if it is that easy to remove.

Posted

There's a YouTube video on a car being PlastiDip'd and then cleaned with a pressure washer, and it holds up just fine. The chap suggests (note: I have never used the stuff), that once its had a bit of time to settle, it is reasonably hard wearing.

 

Link:

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