Bottom Bracket MTB how long should it last

[jcmeyerSS]

I haven't bought a new (Shimano) BB in three years.

Now all I do is not out the bearings.

Head off to local BMG and get two 6805 bearing. Cost around R80 each. The bonus is they are sealed on both sides unlike the standard bearings that are sealed on only one side.

Pop the new bearings into the deep freeze for 20 min.

Pop the CLEAN BB cups in some hot water.

Bearing slip into cups no issue and then fit back onto my bike.

2000km no worries.

Edited March 4, 2014 by jcmeyerSS

[Sidmouth]

I haven't bought a new (Shimano) BB in three years.

Now all I do is not out the bearings.

Head off to local BMG and get two 6805 bearing. Cost around R80 each. The bonus is they are sealed on both sides unlike the standard bearings that are sealed on only one side.

Pop the new bearings into the deep freeze for 20 min.

Pop the CLEAN BB cups in some hot water.

Bearing slip into cups no issue and then fit back onto my bike.

2000km no worries.

OK this is the info I am waiting for, the Size 6805, is this the size needed for both sides of the GXP

[Flowta]

OK this is the info I am waiting for, the Size 6805, is this the size needed for both sides of the GXP

 

As long as you have that spacer, then yes

[jcmeyerSS]

OK this is the info I am waiting for, the Size 6805, is this the size needed for both sides of the GXP

this is for SHIMANO BBs NOT GXP

[BogusOne]

this is for SHIMANO BBs NOT GXP

 

Read my post earlier and you will see shimano and gxp uses the same bearings. There is just a stepdown insert on the non drive side bearing when used for GXP

Edited March 4, 2014 by BogusOne

[Sidmouth]

Will it work on GXP if I get the right sizes, anyone know

[jcmeyerSS]

Read my post earlier and you will see shimano and gxp uses the same bearings. There is just a stepdown insert on the non drive side bearing

Boom there you go problem solved.

thanx Bogus.

[Sidmouth]

awesome 6805 it is, thanks

[Skylark]

once paid in $ and postage, cheaper just to buy a new GXP

 

Local company Rush Sports used to stock them and my old LBS had them if I remember correctly.

[Spoke101]

Local company Rush Sports used to stock them and my old LBS had them if I remember correctly.

Yes you are correct. Rushsports do sell them. I run them on my Trek and they seem to last pretty well even with the bearing sitting directly in the frame. But with the Enduro non driveside bearing the inner race has a ID of 22mm so there is no spacer to knock out. This is what you are looking for.

[Skylark]

I took a look at my brand new spare GXP BB, bought in 2012 and it definitey does look like there could be a removeable collar in there, would make perfect sense because getting a custom specced bearing made would cost a mint and the sram overlords wouldn't want that.

 

Bogusone, how do you knock that collar out?

I recently knocked out my current GXP bearings from their housing to give them a proper service and they were a bit of a bitch to get out and I was knocking on the extended collar thing from the inside and it didn't budge, I'm assuming its press fitted into the bearing race quite tight?

[BogusOne]

I took a look at my brand new spare GXP BB, bought in 2012 and it definitey does look like there could be a removeable collar in there, would make perfect sense because getting a custom specced bearing made would cost a mint and the sram overlords wouldn't want that.

 

Bogusone, how do you knock that collar out?

I recently knocked out my current GXP bearings from their housing to give them a proper service and they were a bit of a bitch to get out and I was knocking on the extended collar thing from the inside and it didn't budge, I'm assuming its press fitted into the bearing race quite tight?

 

I put the bearing on a vise and then a old screwdriver through the spacer that sit right on the edge of the spacer and moer it. You just need to budge it a wee bit then it starts moving easier. Sometimes I do destroy the bearing but considering its already shot and im just after the spacer im not too fussed. Once you have taken one or two out the process becomes easier.

Edited March 4, 2014 by BogusOne

[kosmonooit]

There is a special tool to extract those bearings (I have the raceface one), sure you can hammer and punch but be careful to drive it square and not hammer the inner race.

 

For the step down collar, that is to use a 'normal' external bearing cup system on a GXP crankset, Hope makes one in Al, I found it a bit feeble and it developed play after a few events. The GXP crank has a step down on the non-drive side.

[Skylark]

I put the bearing on a vise and then a old screwdriver through the spacer that sit right on the edge of the spacer and moer it. You just need to budge it a wee bit then it starts moving easier. Sometimes I do destroy the bearing but considering its already shot and im just after the spacer im not too fussed. Once you have taken one or two out the process becomes easier.

 

Is it relatively easy to fit the collar into the replacemnt bearing, doesn't destroy the new bearing?

I suppose you can squeeze it in with a vice and socket

[BogusOne]

 

Is it relatively easy to fit the collar into the replacemnt bearing, doesn't destroy the new bearing?

I suppose you can squeeze it in with a vice and socket

 

Yeah it very easy to fit into the new bearing. I put it on a flat surface and then just tap the spacer in with a rubber mallet. Just make sure you dont enter skew....

[jcmeyerSS]

Yeah it very easy to fit into the new bearing. I put it on a flat surface and then just tap the spacer in with a rubber mallet. Just make sure you dont enter skew....