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Posted

 

Taking off the wheels and cleaning them....

You obviously don't have formula breaks. I avoid everything taking off my wheels because that implies another 30min setting the breaks so pads don't rub.

 

Other than that I have same routine as you

 

Ja taking off the wheels is unnecessary and just asking for issues if you accidentally pull the brake levers with no wheels in.

But each to his own!

Posted

Ja taking off the wheels is unnecessary and just asking for issues if you accidentally pull the brake levers with no wheels in.

But each to his own!

 

That's what brake blocks are for..... ask your LBS for some if you don't have - they also come with some of the bleeding kits.

Posted (edited)

Taking off the wheels and cleaning them....

You obviously don't have formula breaks. I avoid everything taking off my wheels because that implies another 30min setting the breaks so pads don't rub.

 

Other than that I have same routine as you

 

All I have to do to align my disk and pads is to loosen the caliper, pull the brake and tighten the caliper up. That has worked for like 100% of the time. I might be lucky, or it might just my cheap brakes that don't really work on a fine tune level haha.

 

Ja taking off the wheels is unnecessary and just asking for issues if you accidentally pull the brake levers with no wheels in.

But each to his own!

 

I once pulled my front brake without the wheel in with my first bike, all I did was use the little tool to remove the tire from the rim stuck in the caliper and pushed the pistons back. Gave no issues after that.

 

But, I have only done it once and also brake blocks.

Edited by Ruan de Lange
Posted

All I have to do to align my disk and pads is to loosen the caliper, pull the brake and tighten the caliper up. That has worked for like 100% of the time. I might be lucky, or it might just my cheap brakes that don't really work on a fine tune level haha.

 

 

 

I once pulled my front brake without the wheel in with my first bike, all I did was use the little tool to remove the tire from the rim stuck in the caliper and pushed the pistons back. Gave no issues after that.

 

But, I have only done it once and also brake blocks.

 

Again! You obviously don't have formula breaks............ They are a pain in the ass, seriously. But they do stop a bike in a split second

Posted

I always use prepsol, one of those garden pressure bottles works great to.

 

Prepsol is magic. Spray with pressure sprayer. Leave 5 min. Wash. Rinse. Protip: pick and pay hyper has a 2l pressure sprayer filled with clean green for R80. Works a bomb

Posted

Prepsol is magic. Spray with pressure sprayer. Leave 5 min. Wash. Rinse. Protip: pick and pay hyper has a 2l pressure sprayer filled with clean green for R80. Works a bomb

 

Those PnP pump up things are amazing. My mobile bike wash solution of choice for events. Fill with water and use to pre and post rinse.

 

As far as washing goes, a bucket and sponge is the safest and most effective way to clean the muck off a bike, with a brush for hard-to-reach places.

Posted

 

As far as washing goes, a bucket and sponge is the safest and most effective way to clean the muck off a bike, with a brush for hard-to-reach places.

 

Try a Gardena brush that attaches to a hose - MUCH MUCH better than a bucket and sponge to removing crud, friendlier to paintwork - and a whole lot quicker - second only to a pressure washer (a proper one)

Posted

Again! You obviously don't have formula breaks............ They are a pain in the ass, seriously. But they do stop a bike in a split second

 

I know your pain AAAAAHHHHGGG :cursing: and I have over filled my master cylinders so that the lever travel is reduced which compounds the problem.

 

A few tricks that might help these have been formulated after hours of caliper setting experience. :whistling:

  1. Always have dead straight. if they not straight get one of these and make them straight.
    http://thebiketube.com/sites/all/files/tools/tl288k00.jpg
     
  2. Once rotor is straight then loosen caliper, then grab the corresponding brake leaver and pull it hard, whilst pulling the lever tighten down the lower caliper bolt and give it a slight nip ie.(the one that sits below the top of the rotor and this should only be tight enough to stop it from wobbling/moving). Now release the lever and give the wheel a spin if you can still here the rotor rubbing then using your fingers to grab the caliper at the loose bolt side ie.(the side you didn't tighten) and while the wheel is still turning move it slightly inwards our outwards, now because it is lightly tightened down at the other end there will be some resistance. Once you have moved the caliper to a position where the rotor is no longer rubbing tighten down the second caliper bolt tightly and then tighten the first bolt properly.

If this doesn't help get your self a set of these.

http://www.bikegoo.co.uk/shopimages/products/normal/birzmanclam.jpg

 

Which slip over the rotor and then you push rotor with this over it through the brake pads and once it is in the pads you tighten down the caliper and then remove it.

Posted (edited)

I know your pain AAAAAHHHHGGG :cursing: and I have over filled my master cylinders so that the lever travel is reduced which compounds the problem.

 

A few tricks that might help these have been formulated after hours of caliper setting experience. :whistling:

  1. Always have dead straight. if they not straight get one of these and make them straight.
    http://thebiketube.com/sites/all/files/tools/tl288k00.jpg
     
  2. Once rotor is straight then loosen caliper, then grab the corresponding brake leaver and pull it hard, whilst pulling the lever tighten down the lower caliper bolt and give it a slight nip ie.(the one that sits below the top of the rotor and this should only be tight enough to stop it from wobbling/moving). Now release the lever and give the wheel a spin if you can still here the rotor rubbing then using your fingers to grab the caliper at the loose bolt side ie.(the side you didn't tighten) and while the wheel is still turning move it slightly inwards our outwards, now because it is lightly tightened down at the other end there will be some resistance. Once you have moved the caliper to a position where the rotor is no longer rubbing tighten down the second caliper bolt tightly and then tighten the first bolt properly.

If this doesn't help get your self a set of these.

http://www.bikegoo.co.uk/shopimages/products/normal/birzmanclam.jpg

 

Which slip over the rotor and then you push rotor with this over it through the brake pads and once it is in the pads you tighten down the caliper and then remove it.

 

Best step by step info I have seen! To be honest I never new what those clam thingies are for. I will get both these tools this week.

 

Pity you are in KZN. I would happily give you a bottle or 2 of good red for this advice buddy

Edited by Jaco-fiets

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