SRAM BB30 vs Shimano Hollowtech

[Wyatt Earp]

Quick one...

 

I have recently purchased a bike that has the SRAM BB30 Crank and bearing and it seems great, runs smooth and is easily maintained (regarding you have a pressfit tool and circlip removers ).

 

Now my question to all you hubbers is what would you prefer? The simple Shimano Hollowtech type or the SRAM BB30? Reasons please...

 

Side note, can you change from a BB30 to Hollowtech?

 

The crank technology is called Hollowtech.

You must be referring to the Octalink versus Pressfit systems.

[JXV]

Quick one...

 

I have recently purchased a bike that has the SRAM BB30 Crank and bearing and it seems great, runs smooth and is easily maintained (regarding you have a pressfit tool and circlip removers ).

 

Now my question to all you hubbers is what would you prefer? The simple Shimano Hollowtech type or the SRAM BB30? Reasons please...

 

Side note, can you change from a BB30 to Hollowtech?

Prefer the screw in Shimano BB with Hollowtech II cranks. Reasons:

1) I already have a spare BB (for my previous bike)

2) I already have the tools for fitting/removing it and it is an easier job than the press-fit.

 

Was a factor in selecting a SC Tallboy LTc over a Spez Stumpy when I bought a bike recently. I think I would have enjoyed riding both bikes equally but for a home mechy like me the SC looked to be easier to maintain in the long run.

Edited August 7, 2014 by JXV

[Johan Bornman]

The crank technology is called Hollowtech.

You must be referring to the Octalink versus Pressfit systems.

Greetings. No, the OP is right. Shimano has two Hollowtech "technologies". One is the hollow forged cranks and the other is the hollow crank shaft of the so-called two-piece crank with a hollow 24mm shaft. I can't remember which is which, but one is called Hollowtech and the other Hollowtech II. This is all very confusing, since as you said. Octalink is also hollow and actually if anything, should have been called Hollowtech I. I think however that Shimano is trying to pretend it never perpretrated Octalink, it is such a big flop and ill conceived.

[Eldron]

Greetings. No, the OP is right. Shimano has two Hollowtech "technologies". One is the hollow forged cranks and the other is the hollow crank shaft of the so-called two-piece crank with a hollow 24mm shaft. I can't remember which is which, but one is called Hollowtech and the other Hollowtech II. This is all very confusing, since as you said. Octalink is also hollow and actually if anything, should have been called Hollowtech I. I think however that Shimano is trying to pretend it never perpretrated Octalink, it is such a big flop and ill conceived.

 

If we're gonna try and be specific - isn't the "screw in shimano hollowtech II" actually the British ISO/BSA?

 

All the Shimano stuff fits in the BSA threads.

[Eldron]

Eldron's BB 101 for those not familiar with BBs:

 

There are 3 types of BB that dominate the market.

 

BB30 - the inside of the frame is smooth apart from a "notch" that goes right round the inside of the BB. You put a circlip into this notch then press fit the bearing up against this notch - add a few spacers/washers and add the crank to that. the "30" stands for 30mm - the diameter of the crank shaft.

 

PF30 - the inside of the frame is completely smooth. You press fit (the PF in PF30) complete bearing unit into the frame and add crank with some spacers. The crank shaft is also 30mm.

 

Threaded/British ISO/BSA: This is the threaded BB and you screw the entire bearing unit into the thread. Add some spacers and then the crank. There is an italian version with slightly different thread dimensions but these are not that common anymore.

 

Job done.

[Johan Bornman]

If we're gonna try and be specific - isn't the "screw in shimano hollowtech II" actually the British ISO/BSA?

 

All the Shimano stuff fits in the BSA threads.

Not strictly, no. Hollowtech II refers to the 24mm (at both sides) crank shaft diameter and not the fixture method of the BB to the frame, In other words, a Hollowtech II crank can fit into an ISO/BSA BB, a pressfit BB or even Italian thread BB. Speaking of the latter, I just want to add a little detail to your description of Italian thread BB - Italian also uses right-hand threads on both sides of the BB whereas BSA uses left hand thread on the one side and right hand on the other. Then there is that other evil BB Right. What the hell were they thinking?

[Wyatt Earp]

Greetings. No, the OP is right. Shimano has two Hollowtech "technologies". One is the hollow forged cranks and the other is the hollow crank shaft of the so-called two-piece crank with a hollow 24mm shaft. I can't remember which is which, but one is called Hollowtech and the other Hollowtech II. This is all very confusing, since as you said. Octalink is also hollow and actually if anything, should have been called Hollowtech I. I think however that Shimano is trying to pretend it never perpretrated Octalink, it is such a big flop and ill conceived.

 

Hollowtech 1 and 2 bot refer to the crank not the spindle.

Hollowtech 1 used octalink bb's and Hollowtech 2 uses external bb cups.

[Johan Bornman]

Hollowtech 1 and 2 bot refer to the crank not the spindle.

Hollowtech 1 used octalink bb's and Hollowtech 2 uses external bb cups.

I don't have a Shimano catalogue anymore, but in the back they explain all their idiosyncrasies. Have a look at this video, where Hollowtech II is all about the axle, not the crank. http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/nl/index/technologies/hollowtech_ii.html

[Wyatt Earp]

I don't have a Shimano catalogue anymore, but in the back they explain all their idiosyncrasies. Have a look at this video, where Hollowtech II is all about the axle, not the crank. http://cycle.shimano...lowtech_ii.html

 

Yes, Hollowtech 2 is all about the spindle, but Hollowtech is all about the hollow crack arms.

You can get a crank with the external bearing spindle which is not a hollowtech crank.

[Eldron]

Not strictly, no. Hollowtech II refers to the 24mm (at both sides) crank shaft diameter and not the fixture method of the BB to the frame, In other words, a Hollowtech II crank can fit into an ISO/BSA BB, a pressfit BB or even Italian thread BB. Speaking of the latter, I just want to add a little detail to your description of Italian thread BB - Italian also uses right-hand threads on both sides of the BB whereas BSA uses left hand thread on the one side and right hand on the other. Then there is that other evil BB Right. What the hell were they thinking?

 

Ha ha - forgot about the reverse-reverse thread eytie BBs. I think I last fitted one in 1994.

 

For those wanting to run Shimano cranks in their PF/BB30 frames here are some of my favourite adaptors:

 

http://clee-cycles.co.uk/esite/P20004/product

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/kcnc-bb30-bottom-bracket-to-shimano-adaptor-road-68-mm-prod33009/

http://www.quickrock.net/Pages/ProductCatalogue2/ProductPage/ProductPage.asp?ProductID=8104

[Johan Bornman]

Yes, Hollowtech 2 is all about the spindle, but Hollowtech is all about the hollow crack arms.

 

 

Hmmm, infinite loop.

You can get a crank with the external bearing spindle which is not a hollowtech crank.

Nope, that is still a Hollowtech (II) crank. As I said, Hollowtech is not all that obvious. Hollowtech (subsequently renamed as Hollowtech I) refers to a hollow forged crank and Hollowtech II refers to the 24mm axle. It would be safe to say that the Shimano trademark Hollowtech refers to both the axle dimensions and the method of forging in the crank. It is silly but that's Shimano for you. Have a look at your Shimano manual. In the back they have several pages of glossary with nice icons and diagrams. Over and out.

[kosmonooit]

And then there's the hallowed ground of Cannondale's Hallowgram

 

http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/2013-Cannondale-Si-crankset-with-standard-spider.jpg

 

 

http://autobus.cyclingnews.com/photos/2007/tech/features/cannondale_supersix07/Si_Hollowgram_SLchanges1.jpg

[Wyatt Earp]

 

Hmmm, infinite loop. Nope, that is still a Hollowtech (II) crank. As I said, Hollowtech is not all that obvious. Hollowtech (subsequently renamed as Hollowtech I) refers to a hollow forged crank and Hollowtech II refers to the 24mm axle. It would be safe to say that the Shimano trademark Hollowtech refers to both the axle dimensions and the method of forging in the crank. It is silly but that's Shimano for you. Have a look at your Shimano manual. In the back they have several pages of glossary with nice icons and diagrams. Over and out.

 

No it's not, I have catalogues here with me .

[Dorpie]

Is there anyone who has the complete Product code for the BB30 bearings?

 

The Cannondale catalogue says KB6180/ but the local bearing supplier has said that is missing a digit, they know what bearing it is but the last digit is the size.

The manufacturers do this so that you can not order bearings from out sourced suppliers.

[Johan Bornman]

Is there anyone who has the complete Product code for the BB30 bearings?

 

The Cannondale catalogue says KB6180/ but the local bearing supplier has said that is missing a digit, they know what bearing it is but the last digit is the size.

The manufacturers do this so that you can not order bearings from out sourced suppliers.

It is a 6806 bearing. Ask for a 2RS6806, the oke behind the counter will know what it is. If you are interested in the code meanings, the number denotes the bearing ID, OD and width, as well as the type of rolling element, in this case balls, in a single deep groove. The RS loosely translates to Rubber Seal. The 2 in front of the RS (sometimes put behind) simply means two rubber seals, one either side. Your supplier may use another type of rubber, denoted by say LLB. Don't worry about the rubber type, you just want two rubber seals, one either side of the bearing.PS, I haven't worked with this for a while, so just double check by asking the supplier to see if the ID on a 6806 is indeed 30mm. Alternatively, just go to SKF.com and check the dimensions. These are published. SKF sometimes uses an extra digit somewhere, ignore that, look for the base code. Dimensions remain the same no matter the seal type, rubber, steel or nothing.

Edited August 8, 2014 by Johan Bornman