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MTB Gear Ratios


Rocket-Ron

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Posted

Hubers!

 

I have a question to ask.

 

How do you compare the gearing ratios on MTB's.

 

I recently bought a MTB that has a 1 x 10 set up.

 

I see a lot of guys are riding 1 x 11's.

 

My set up is currently 33 Teeth (front Ring) and 36 Teeth (largest ring on Cassette)

 

How does that compare to normal 2 x 10;s and 1 x 11's.

 

I am have entered Berg and Bush and am worried when it comes to the "granny Gear" or lack there of.

 

I noticed that with the current set up, on the road, i loose out on top end speed as it just does not have the gears to keep up with Road bikes. I am hoping that the loss of the top end speed means that it has an easier climbing gear?

 

Advice???

 

Thanks

Posted

Your front chainring should be either 32t or 34t and not 33t as a single chainring should be a narrow wide chainring and can only have an even number of teeth. If it is 32t with a 36 at the back you should be fine on almost any hill. If it is 34t you might want to look at getting a 40t gear for the back as a bail out gear for those steep climbs when your legs are tired.

Posted

I still prefer my triple although I am riding a 27.5 wheels. 1x10 on a normal 36t at the back I am not strong enough to climb steep hills over long distances.

Did a 80km 2000m ascent ride the other day and legs were to tired to even pedal the granny gear.

Posted
I used to rock a 3x10 with a 22t & 40t in the front and a 38t at the back (yes PROPER granny). Now I'm riding on a 2 x 10 with 24t & 38t in front and a 36t at the back. You get used to it. It's GREAT!

 

For me personally that's just about the perfect ratios, Shimano makes it in an Xt 38/24t 2x10 crank, maybe SLX as well.

The 24t/36cog is almost the same granny ratio as the old 3x9 22/34, I find the 26/36 ratio that's the common granny ratio with SRAM blades not enough to comfortably spin up sitting down on the really steep climbs.

Posted

You will need an even number up front for a narrow wide cog.

 

You will not get up Speonkop with a 36 rear cassette(unless you have legs like HULK).The rest of the track is very ridable.

 

If you can remove your 15&17 cassette and replace them with a 16&42 you will be a happy rider without doubt.

 

If this is your first Berg n Bush you are in for a life changing mtb experience.It is simply awesome!

 

See you at B&B :clap:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

A granny ring on the crank will give a much lower gear ratio than a big cog on your cassette (if that makes sense). There are a few apps online that can work the ratios out for you. So a 1x10 or a 1x11 will not give you the same granny ratio as 22/24 on a double or triple crank with a 36 cassette. The logic attached to 1x11 is that the front ring is easy to switch out depending on riding terrain, but in terms of on the bike flexibility a double can't be beaten.

 

I ride year round with a 1x10 (32&42) but for races like the B&B I switch back to 2x10. I am not a powerful peddler though, you may be able to swing it.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

HI Guys - I thought it best to open this for my question.

 

I recently purchased a scott spark 900 prem - it has a 2x11 34/24 front chain rings on a 11-40 cassette.

 

My previous bike was the scott spark 910 with 2x10 36/24 front 11-36 cassette.

 

The new set up I don't seem to use all the gears as yet - have yet to go onto small chain ring and I seem to use only bought half of the cassette on the 34 front ring. Also seem to lack some top end not that you are there very long on mtb rides.

 

My question is should I just replace the front to a 36? should I replace the front and run it as a 1x11? or replace the rear cassette as well and run a 36 front and 11-42 rear? should I keep it as a 1x or 2x?

 

most of my riding it around JHB, I do some Nissan races and am doing berg and bush in oct - how do I go about deciding what is best option?

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