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Can't get tyres on ZTR Crests


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Posted

Which tyres did you go for, and what pressure are you running? On tar, high pressure is key. On dirt, the lower the pressure the lower the rolling resistance (to a point, of course) as the tyre moulds to the imperfections & undulations rather than bouncing off them. 

 

Also - the difference in compound would make a large difference. 

 

EDIT: I see you're used to running 3 to 4 bar (45 to 60 PSI) no wonder you're feeling a difference on the tar. Quite frankly, I'm surprised you haven't had any catastrophic washouts and drifts in the corners, cos at that pressure, no tyre is going to stick on the dirty stuff. 

 

As an absolute MAXIMUM, you should be running 30psi (2 bar) and with your weight you could even drop it down to 25psi and still be happy with the performance of the tyres. Yes, they'll drag a bit on the tar, but it's a mountain bike for goodness sakes, and you already have a road bike. So keep it on the dirt, don't worry about road performance, or have a bit of extra training and ride on the verge when you need to commute to the trail heads. 

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Posted

The Good : 

  • Bike lost 2kg weight, down to 15kg
  • Wheels and hubs looks kief

 

The Bad :

  • That hub is freakin' load when you free
  • At R5500 this whole exercise clock in at a mere R700 less than what I paid for the bike
  • Rolling resistance is a lot higher, despite being lighter I really have to put effort in on tarmac.
  • Did I mention it was kark expensive :)

But I'm gonna give it some time and see how it pans out. This could be good and I hope that like the bike I will be able to get my rands worth in kilometers. I am still keeping the CR70 wheels and fitted, with one hand I might add, the Racing Ralphs on them. Should I ever be let down by the tubeless and not able to plug it nor fit a tube I'm going back to basics. 

You were charged :eek:  :eek:  :eek:  :eek:  :eek:  :eek:  :eek:  :eek:  R5500 for this incl tyres?????

Posted

Mmm, what weight is OK on Crests? I am 85kg.

So 2 bar is too much for tubeless?

Yeah the crests will be fine at your weight. I know Surv0 personally and he is a big lad at over 2m so he is always going to be quite heavy.
Posted

Crossmark at the back and some type of Vittoria at the front. Not sure what the pressure is, what should it be for a mix between on and off road?

Ah cool. The crossmark shouldn't wear that fast on the tar. They're long lasting and tough, just a bit short (okay, a lot) on the grip department. The Vittoria is a rebranded Geax (same company, just went to the name Vittoria to tie it to their road offerings and get some congruency) and depending on which one you have, will determine its characteristics.

 

As for pressure - no more than 30psi. At a stretch. I'm 105kg and I run 25-30PSI on my MTB and I sometimes commute on the road to the trail head. Any more than that and grip suffers a LOT on the dirt. Extra rolling resistance on the road is a definite trade-off that you should be prepared to take, given that it's a mountain bike and you already have a road bike. 

 

If you use it for commuting, as well as MTB fun, then on the commutes (if they're road) pump them up to 35 or so PSI and then when you go MTBing, drop the pressure to around 25PSI or so. It'll be weird at first, cos the tyres will grip WAY better than you're used to, but trust me. No mountain bike should EVER have their hoops inflated to more than 30psi on the trail. 

Posted

Crossmark at the back and some type of Vittoria at the front. Not sure what the pressure is, what should it be for a mix between on and off road?

 

Crossmark and Vittoria - not the best tyres, the question is are these the versions with sidewall protection, folding bead? Crossmark UST and Vittoria don`t know what they call their sidewall protection version.

Posted

Crossmark and Vittoria - not the best tyres, the question is are these the versions with sidewall protection, folding bead? 

Vittoria is the rebranded Geax, which is good depending on which one it is. Crossmark is only ever okay on the back. 

 

But you're right - the version of each will determine how "good" they are. If it's the Crossmark LUST, then it's bulletproof but lacking in grip. Vittoria (Geax) Mezcal / Sauguro / etc... all good in different applications. 

Posted

Cool, I think I'll keep them on 2bar (30psi) since I commute to work on tar and from work it is a rocky trail. Should be a good balance for the type of riding I do. 

 

It was R3500 for the used ZTR wheels, R1200 for the tyres and R800 for the rest (incl crowbars, plug kit, spare tubes and a few extra bits)

Posted

No, that is why I asked here in the first place. Always good advice for a noob like me, although I often hope there would be more el-cheapo minded bikers like me here. 

Only problem with going tubeless is you forget how to repair a puncture :whistling:

Posted

Must be some real kief rubbish cause I paid a small fortune for then in used condition. If they do misbehave I'll gut them for the hubs and make some of the sickest Giant CR70 wheels around.

 

Bike is a Revel 0

Posted

If the Crossmark is the LUST version it will be very heavy making a good light wheel heavy. If it`s not the LUST then the sidewall will be cut very soon.

 

I don`t know the Vittoria so well but Geax also tend to be heavier than other tyres and does not last longer than the Maxxis Ikon. If it is not the sidewall protection version it will be cut very soon.

 

Sometimes buying cheap is actually expensive. Get a pair of Maxxis Ikon Exo which is light, have sidewall protection, and the tread will last very long, making it much a better value buy.

Posted

These were the most expensive ones they had and I said I wanted tyres that will last forever. So I guess they have sidewalls that can withstand most attempts at penetration. 

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