Hydraulic brakes mineral oil

[Wyatt Earp]

Hi.... enough for front and rear. So 150ml would do.

I bleed a front and back with 70 ml's from empty, front and back.

I have a 50 ml. bottle here for you, mahala .

[Morwa]

I bleed a front and back with 70 ml's from empty, front and back.

I have a 50 ml. bottle here for you, mahala .

PM send!

[LittleG]

Motorcycle Fork oil should also work, we use it as an alternative to Motorex mineral oil on some of the off roads hydrolic clutch systems. I use Bel-ray 2.5w which can be bought for R120/L. Figured I would use the same on my Mtb...

[porqui]

Motorcycle Fork oil should also work, we use it as an alternative to Motorex mineral oil on some of the off roads hydrolic clutch systems. I use Bel-ray 2.5w which can be bought for R120/L. Figured I would use the same on my Mtb...

 

You're brave - very brave

 

To OP

When in doubt - ask!

(just not on a Friday)

 

or

 

Google (your friend in darkness)

 

Are you following this thread as you are awfully quite.

[LittleG]

 

 

You're brave - very brave

 

Why? Always interesting to hear the warnings without much to back it up. DOT fluid is aggressive stuff and damages the seals, most of the other stuff mentioned won't, the difference might be in Feel of the lever or issues with heat etc. Have not seen anything here other than 'that isn't what is recommended by manufacturer'.

[porqui]

There are a number of issues to consider when using stuff made for one application and using it for another ie: viscosity and boiling points to name two in this case. Mostly warnings are backed up with good reasons. When doing something different - do your homework. You do not want to mess around with your brakes esp.

 

My statement was directed at your statement and it being your 1st post.

(flamesuite and popcorn)

[Wyatt Earp]

Why? Always interesting to hear the warnings without much to back it up. DOT fluid is aggressive stuff and damages the seals, most of the other stuff mentioned won't, the difference might be in Feel of the lever or issues with heat etc. Have not seen anything here other than 'that isn't what is recommended by manufacturer'.

Let's make life easy for all of us.

How about you first backup your fork oil claim with some facts ?

And perhaps when you give some facts and also manage to spell hydraulic correctly, you might get taken a little serious .

I always become skeptical when I read "it should work" without any conclusive facts.

[GoLefty!!]

Nope.

 

The stuff you get from a chemist is way too thick and has far too low a viscosity index. Too thick means the brakes will be far less responsive and may jam, and low VI means that you'll get terrible brake fade as the oil heats up on even a moderately long descent.

 

Shimano mineral oil, LHM or a very light (Shimano is rated at about 10cSt) HVI suspension fluid can work, but the Shimano stuff is the best. Buy it by the litre - it's about R 300 - and split it with your mates.

 

As has been said already, DOT fluid will swell the seals in mineral oil systems and your brakes will be toast. Which is unfortunate because Shimano can't be rebuilt, you'll have to toss them and get new ones.

 

 

 

Spot on,

 

The big advantage of mineral oil is that yo can close the top of the bottle tightly and you can use it a year later. You cannot do that with a DoT Brake Fluid. Once the bottle of DoT is opened it has to be used within a month before its performance will degrade due to absorbing moisture from the atmosphere

[LittleG]

Let's make life easy for all of us.

How about you first backup your fork oil claim with some facts ?

And perhaps when you give some facts and also manage to spell hydraulic correctly, you might get taken a little serious .

I always become skeptical when I read "it should work" without any conclusive facts.

Sure.

Apologies for the spelling mistake, lets see if I can make you a little less sceptical 

Correction on my reference to 2.5w fork oil, it should have read 5w.

 

Go check the specs page on this Document around Motorex 75 hydraulic fluid.

http://www.motorexusa.com/tech/hydraulikfluid%2075.pdf

MOTOREX HYDRAULIC FLUID 75 is used in the hydraulic disc and rim brakes of mountain bikes and the hydraulic clutch controls of motorcycles where the manufacturer specifies a mineral-oil-based pressure medium (Shimano, Magura).

 

Technical data:

Viscosity at 40 °C mm²/s DIN 51562-1 14.8

Viscosity at 100 °C mm²/s DIN 51562-1 4.1

Viscosity index DIN ISO 2909 196

 

Go check some of the details on fork oils here - https://transmoto.com.au/comparative-oil-weights-table/

To keep it easy for you the numbers for Bel-ray 5w fork oil:

Bel-Ray High Performance Fork Oil 5 W

Type : Mineral

cSt @ 40 °C   17.1

cSt @ 100 °C 4.10

Viscosity Index 146

 

So some facts,

1. Mineral oil.

2. Similar at 40 °C 

3. Exactly the same at 100 °C 

4 Has a little lower overall Viscosity index (but still relatively decent number).

 

So far I think I have covered most of the potential danger points, I don't claim to be an expert so this is  just rehash of some quick google searches, so I am keen to see if anyone has more info because that way we can make more informed decisions rather than just 'oh the sticker says ONLY MAGURA BLOOD' @ R1000/L.

Edited November 9, 2014 by LittleG

[Wyatt Earp]

 

Sure.

Apologies for the spelling mistake, lets see if I can make you a little less sceptical 

Correction on my reference to 2.5w fork oil, it should have read 5w.

 

Go check the specs page on this Document around Motorex 75 hydraulic fluid.

http://www.motorexusa.com/tech/hydraulikfluid%2075.pdf

 

 

Go check some of the details on fork oils here - https://transmoto.com.au/comparative-oil-weights-table/

To keep it easy for you the numbers for Bel-ray 5w fork oil:

 

So some facts,

1. Mineral oil.

2. Similar at 40 °C 

3. Exactly the same at 100 °C 

4 Has a little lower overall Viscosity index (but still relatively decent number).

 

So far I think I have covered most of the potential danger points, I don't claim to be an expert so this is  just rehash of some quick google searches, so I am keen to see if anyone has more info because that way we can make more informed decisions rather than just 'oh the sticker says ONLY MAGURA BLOOD' @ R1000/L.

 

Cewt, sceptical and skeptical, same thing but nice try.

Also a huge amount of googling from your side, give facts based on your own studies and experiences so we can start believing you and make more "informed" decisions .

[JXV]

I dont buy used brakes for the same reason I dont buy used rock-climbing equipment.....safety critical items.

 

Support using manufacturer's recommended brake fluids for same reason. Even at R175 for that little bottle if you bleed it right it will last a year or more.

 

The true story is more than boiling point amd viscosity. These oils may also have other additives such as seal swelling agents, dye, dispersants and so on designed to suit the particular type of rubber used in seals.

 

Use alternatives at own risk and insist your LBS uses the correct stuff too.

Edited November 10, 2014 by JXV

[LittleG]

 

 

Cewt, sceptical and skeptical, same thing but nice try.

Also a huge amount of googling from your side, give facts based on your own studies and experiences so we can start believing you and make more "informed" decisions .

Lol cute, Thanks for adding value to a discussion.

[Wyatt Earp]

Lol cute, Thanks for adding value to a discussion.

Maybe you should read all the posts.

My contribution has been pretty in depth, rather than the assumptions, and "could have's" and "should have's" you spew out.

Don't play around with other peoples safety.

Edited November 10, 2014 by Wyatt Earp

[porqui]

I dont buy used brakes for the same reason I dont buy used rock-climbing equipment.....safety critical items.

 

Support using manufacturer's recommended brake fluids for same reason. Even at R175 for that little bottle if you bleed it right it will last a year or more.

 

The true story is more than boiling point amd viscosity. These oils may also have other additives such as seal swelling agents, dye, dispersants and so on designed to suit the particular type of rubber used in seals.

 

Use alternatives at own risk and insist your LBS uses the correct stuff too.

 

And sometimes they come from the same batch.

[JXV]

And sometimes they come from the same batch.

Yes the base oil typically comes from a large batch produced by a refinery. A packaging agent then adds the specific additoves requested by each customer that buys a portion of that batch and packages it in their branded packaging. So Magura blood, the pink Shimano stuff and the Castrol LHM may even share the same base oil spec....but the additive packs differ visibly

[Peach.]

Spot on,

 

The big advantage of mineral oil is that yo can close the top of the bottle tightly and you can use it a year later. You cannot do that with a DoT Brake Fluid. Once the bottle of DoT is opened it has to be used within a month before its performance will degrade due to absorbing moisture from the atmosphere

 

If the bottle is opened and closed within 5 min it will only be able to absorb the moisture that is in the air inside the bottle, being in JHB and having no moisture in the air what is the difference is you use it again within a month or a year later, the bottle has not been opened between uses?

 

 

I use distilled water in my Magura HS33 

Feels and works way better than magura blood junk.

Edited November 10, 2014 by Peach.