rygold Posted June 26, 2017 Posted June 26, 2017 Ok, thanks guys. Yeah, from my limited knowledge it looks pretty good.Though it might be worth upgrading sometime. Aren't hydraulic brakes a pain to maintain though?
Zorro5614 Posted June 26, 2017 Posted June 26, 2017 Not sure, but they sure cost a lot. My TRP Spyre mechanical brakes are rubbish, almost no stopping power. Pretty scary on a downhill.
rygold Posted June 26, 2017 Posted June 26, 2017 Oh hell, just what I wanted to hear! Well always wear shoes with thick rubber soles...
Monark Posted June 26, 2017 Posted June 26, 2017 Zorro I have no idea where you heard that or how you came to that conclusion . I'm running spyres and cannot praise them enough. Super reliable and very low maintenance
Zorro5614 Posted June 27, 2017 Posted June 27, 2017 Zorro I have no idea where you heard that or how you came to that conclusion . I'm running spyres and cannot praise them enough. Super reliable and very low maintenance Just my personal experience with mine.  Have tried adjusting the brakes myself,  took it to LBS to adjust and fitted new brake cables.  The brakes just don't have any bite I have ordered some Jagwire brake pads and compression-less cable housing which will hopefully help a bit
LOOK695 Posted June 27, 2017 Posted June 27, 2017 Zorro I have no idea where you heard that or how you came to that conclusion . I'm running spyres and cannot praise them enough. Super reliable and very low maintenanceAlso happy with mine....
Underachiever Posted June 27, 2017 Posted June 27, 2017 So I pulled the trigger on Chris' American Classic 30 Cx disk wheelset last week before I went on leave. Nothing in life is easy. Tried to fit a used 35mm Maxxis Cx tyre with a 35mm Kenda tube. Tube valve too short!!!!!!!!!! Luckily I had a valve extender in a box, but the tyre would not seat properly at the valve hole with the tyre bead protruding from the rim. Seems to have too little space for the tyre/tube combo. Am Classic did say the rims could be run with a tube!! Then tried a normal road tube which seems too "small" and the same thing happens. The bead does not want to seat in the rim hook at the valve hole???? Any ideas? Next step to run them tubeless as intended, but this was interesting, since you might require to run a tube after a serious puncture. So the tube/rim/tyre compatibility issue needs to be solved
Pure Savage Posted June 27, 2017 Posted June 27, 2017 So I pulled the trigger on Chris' American Classic 30 Cx disk wheelset last week before I went on leave. Nothing in life is easy. Tried to fit a used 35mm Maxxis Cx tyre with a 35mm Kenda tube. Tube valve too short!!!!!!!!!! Luckily I had a valve extender in a box, but the tyre would not seat properly at the valve hole with the tyre bead protruding from the rim. Seems to have too little space for the tyre/tube combo. Am Classic did say the rims could be run with a tube!! Then tried a normal road tube which seems too "small" and the same thing happens. The bead does not want to seat in the rim hook at the valve hole???? Any ideas? Next step to run them tubeless as intended, but this was interesting, since you might require to run a tube after a serious puncture. So the tube/rim/tyre compatibility issue needs to be solvedAnd its not a case of trying to just push the tube "deeper"?
Monark Posted June 27, 2017 Posted June 27, 2017 Just my personal experience with mine.  Have tried adjusting the brakes myself,  took it to LBS to adjust and fitted new brake cables.  The brakes just don't have any bite I have ordered some Jagwire brake pads and compression-less cable housing which will hopefully help a bit hi bud it is the cable housing that you are using... trust me. Change the cable and the housing and be prepared to get thrown forwards if you slam on the front brake. They are very good. I have the SLC version and I can lock my back wheel up without trying very hard. The feel is also very good. Your cable housing s compressing and flexing thus making them spongey. Your bike is epic, it deserves epic brakes. Make it happen!
Underachiever Posted June 27, 2017 Posted June 27, 2017 And its not a case of trying to just push the tube "deeper"?Nope, the normal road tube trick did not work :-(Â Seems the larger tube is too big for the tyre and the normal road tube too small - if that makes sense?
Zorro5614 Posted June 27, 2017 Posted June 27, 2017 hi bud it is the cable housing that you are using... trust me. Change the cable and the housing and be prepared to get thrown forwards if you slam on the front brake. They are very good. I have the SLC version and I can lock my back wheel up without trying very hard. The feel is also very good. Your cable housing s compressing and flexing thus making them spongey. Your bike is epic, it deserves epic brakes. Make it happen! That is good to hear.  Can't wait for the shipment to arrive
Armand08 Posted July 4, 2017 Posted July 4, 2017 Bike due for a wash after this mornings ride IMG_0709.JPG Not used to swallowing dirt with my waterNice wheels LOOK. Where can one get those carbon hoops?
LOOK695 Posted July 4, 2017 Posted July 4, 2017 Nice wheels LOOK. Where can one get those carbon hoops?Thanks Armand. Those are chinese rims I bought from yishunbike, hubs are novatec. Had a good ride today over tough terrain. Bike and wheels still going strongPM me for contact details should you be interested....
LOOK695 Posted July 4, 2017 Posted July 4, 2017 Been riding my Wolverine for around 8 months now. Really enjoy this bike. Today's ride was on some really bad terrain in some sections. I even walked some steep downhill sections ????????. Honestly, it was more mtb terrain. Here some pics   Even had a river crossing. Ok, a small stream but I am a roadie remember ????
AJG Posted July 6, 2017 Posted July 6, 2017 Â I am selling this CX / Gravel bike if anyone is looking. Â https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/257202-gravel-cx-bikes/
ChrisEVP Posted July 12, 2017 Posted July 12, 2017 Busy with my Cotic Escapade CX. Â Will hopefully have the wheels done by tomorrowÂ
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