wonduhboy Posted January 29, 2015 Posted January 29, 2015 If you go 2x10 you will need to buy new crankset.If you go direct to 1x10 you can use your 3x10 cranks, placing the new NW chainring in the middle position. The chainline should be close to ideal and not likely you will need spacers. Going direct to 1x10 with your existing 11-36 cassette and a 32t NW chainring means you will lose 1st, 2nd and 3rd granny ratios and also on the big ring you lose 9th and 10th (the 2 hardest gears). If you toss the 15, 17 off the cassette and add a 16 + 42 you will lose only 1st and 2nd granny (the 42t gives your 3rd granny back). On the top end you still lose 9th and 10th big ring but do you really use those a lot on trails?Can you explain a bit more why you would lose the 15 and 17?
JXV Posted January 29, 2015 Posted January 29, 2015 Can you explain a bit more why you would lose the 15 and 17?To make space for the 16 and 42. Otherwise you must lose either 15 or 17 to fit the 42 and then tolerate a disruptive 4 tooth gap between 13-17 or 15-19
Brian Fantana Posted January 29, 2015 Posted January 29, 2015 Tried the Raceface N/W and currently have the XX1 chainring on my bike. Chain is the shortest it can be, and I'm running an X9 type 2 RD (yes, clutch is working) and a Deore cassette. Dropping every single ride. I'm making a chain guide this weekend. Sick of it. I'd rather run a normal chainring and guide than a narrow wide alone. It's cheaper and more efficient. Especially if you have a good guide.I think it must be bike specific. Maybe your suspension movement have a unique way of reducing chain tension at crucial times? Could also be specific to certain terrain ie rocky sections? Perhaps I am just lucky, but I am on chain number 4 on 1x10 which means I am close to 4500km with only one dropped chain. About 1500km on 1x10 on my Morewood Shova, and about 3000km on my Intense. The dropped chain was on a rocky descent at B&B called the bone shaker. My clutch was off at that time as I forgot to turn it on after switching wheels that morning. With 2x10 and 3x9 I regularly dropped chains with the Shova. So for me 1x10 is a big improvement.
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted January 29, 2015 Posted January 29, 2015 I think it must be bike specific. Maybe your suspension movement have a unique way of reducing chain tension at crucial times? Could also be specific to certain terrain ie rocky sections? Perhaps I am just lucky, but I am on chain number 4 on 1x10 which means I am close to 4500km with only one dropped chain. About 1500km on 1x10 on my Morewood Shova, and about 3000km on my Intense. The dropped chain was on a rocky descent at B&B called the bone shaker. My clutch was off at that time as I forgot to turn it on after switching wheels that morning. With 2x10 and 3x9 I regularly dropped chains with the Shova. So for me 1x10 is a big improvement.Yeah. I've considered that as well. Both Headshot and I ride giants, which have pretty large amounts of chain growth under suspension compression. The reversion to the Uncompressed position could put extra slack in the chain faster than the clutch can cope with. Possibly.
JXV Posted January 29, 2015 Posted January 29, 2015 Tried the Raceface N/W and currently have the XX1 chainring on my bike. Chain is the shortest it can be, and I'm running an X9 type 2 RD (yes, clutch is working) and a Deore cassette. Dropping every single ride.Maybe your chainline is too far off. Have heard it said that you ideally want the front chainring to line up on about the 4th largest rear cog in a 1x10 setup.
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted January 29, 2015 Posted January 29, 2015 Maybe your chainline is too far off. Have heard it said that you ideally want the front chainring to line up on about the 4th largest rear cog in a 1x10 setup.Nope. It's a good chain line. Plus it comes off when I'm descending so my chainline if anything would be too high. But it's not. Spaced correctly for the bike.
NotSoBigBen Posted January 30, 2015 Posted January 30, 2015 Now I can also be one of the cool kids - fortunately I have quite a few 'old' road and MTB cassettes around so am hoping to find a loose 16 there somewhere!
NotSoBigBen Posted January 30, 2015 Posted January 30, 2015 You were born cool Bennie. my kids would disagree mate
AlanD Posted January 30, 2015 Posted January 30, 2015 I currently have a 3 x 9setup and was also wondering about this 1x 10 evolution so i did a test ride where i stayed only in the middle ring. I must say, it was lots of fun not having to worry about the front gears and just using the back. I did find that towards the end of the right i needed a few extra granny gears because my legs were totally shot after that. havig the 1 x 10 setup with the cog extender i think would have solved that issue. For me, this will more costly to convert by may cosnder doing this over time. I think if you want to go 1 x 10 then do a test ride only using the middle ring up front then you will know what you want to do.
still learning Posted January 30, 2015 Posted January 30, 2015 Have tried looking for the answer to a question I have but cannot seem to find anything. Please forgive me if it turns out to be a stupid question. My bike has internal cable routing and therefore my question is this. When removing the front shifters cables how would the cable for the rear mech stay in place? There are two pieces of plastic that are in place at the bottom of the frame and seem to be dependent on each other to stay in place. Please can someone help me with what I am missing here Thank you
JXV Posted January 30, 2015 Posted January 30, 2015 Have tried looking for the answer to a question I have but cannot seem to find anything. Please forgive me if it turns out to be a stupid question. My bike has internal cable routing and therefore my question is this. When removing the front shifters cables how would the cable for the rear mech stay in place? There are two pieces of plastic that are in place at the bottom of the frame and seem to be dependent on each other to stay in place. Please can someone help me with what I am missing here Thank youPics?
Eldron Posted January 30, 2015 Posted January 30, 2015 I've kinda gone full circle on this issue. I started out as "why the hell would anyone pay money to have LESS gears" - then I got into the cleanliness/simplicity of 1x10 and loved it, now I'm back to minimum of 2x10. I roll a 32/11-40 on my training bike and enjoy the low maintenance aspect but I do find the gaps between gears too big - especially the 13-16-19 area. I'm pedalling too fast in one and too slow in the other. I've settled on 1x10 for training and 2x10 for racing. Oddly enough I like running an 11-34 on my 2x10. The training bike will remain 32/11-40. I figure pedalling at an uncomfortable RPM will help the HTFU aspect of training but racing I want to be at my perfect RPM all the time. I think I've said this before:1x1 for fun/training.1x10 for training/low maintenance.2x10 or 3x10 for racing.
still learning Posted January 30, 2015 Posted January 30, 2015 Hi JKV, I hope that i have added the pic correctly. I am referring to the little silver pieces at the top of the pic.
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