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Is going 1x10 really worth it?!?


gpcar

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So I did the whole 1x10 conversion and picked up my bike yesterday and rode my normal 40km Wednesday ride with the group.

 

My setup: 34t in front, and normal 11-36 in the back. Dont feel I need the extender gear as I hardly touched my granny (36t)...

 

It is very premature to give you a raving review then shoot myself in the foot, but here are my motivations for doing it and then also some reviews of the ride:

 

 

I had a 2x10 setup previously, and ended up breaking some gears off my cassette and then my front chainring within two rides of each other and needed to change my whole drive train anyways...

 

 

I was always in the front big chainring (38t) and would be forced to shift down when in the granny gears because otherwise chain would fall off anyways. On the flats I would spin out as well in a 38t...

 

 

Always felt like too many gears are doubled up, then played around on the calculators you get online to compare the various setups.

 

 

XX1 and even X1 would be too expensive for me as I would have to replace my wheel set as well to get a hub that can fit the XD freehub, so all in all with X1 it would have cost me about 20k, no thanks.

 

 

So then saw the 1x10 and thought that would be perfect as its affordable and would rather play around there with the setup and see if I liked it.

 

 

I am not generally a super high cadence guy and have power to put down.

 

 

ANYWHO, yesterdays ride was great. Super smooth and simple... loved it...

 

After climbing a hill at the top you drop a few gears super easy and have good resistance to get your speed built up very fast and accellorate better than I normally could with 2x10 and with less massive change in gears (back to big front and dropping back a few gears).

 

I was able to keep up with the group on the flats using a slightly higher cadence, and would climb hills like a goat....

 

 

I always felt like the front shifting put a lot of strain on the bike and a huge jerk in general, which helps to stuff up your bb bearings in my opinion....

 

With the single chainring the power delivery is much better throughout and my pedal stroke much smoother throughout the ride...

 

As far as I am now, I can tell you for me it was totally worth it!!!

 

 

But here is the calculator I user, its definitely worth playing around with it and comparing... http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

 

Hope this helps someone...

 

For interest, some guys are running 1x7 in the XCE races so they can power down...

 

Also plenty of guys are running single speeds in the same races we all are running 2x10 or 1x10 or 3x10 or 3x9.... and finishing with greater or equal results...

 

So there is no right or wrong, if you have the power then do it... if you only riding granny gears only then not a good call for you....

 

For me, this is working....

 

my 2c.....

 

Kind Regards,

Tim

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So I did the whole 1x10 conversion and picked up my bike yesterday and rode my normal 40km Wednesday ride with the group.

 

My setup: 34t in front, and normal 11-36 in the back. Dont feel I need the extender gear as I hardly touched my granny (36t)...

 

It is very premature to give you a raving review then shoot myself in the foot, but here are my motivations for doing it and then also some reviews of the ride:

 

 

I had a 2x10 setup previously, and ended up breaking some gears off my cassette and then my front chainring within two rides of each other and needed to change my whole drive train anyways...

 

 

I was always in the front big chainring (38t) and would be forced to shift down when in the granny gears because otherwise chain would fall off anyways. On the flats I would spin out as well in a 38t...

 

 

Always felt like too many gears are doubled up, then played around on the calculators you get online to compare the various setups.

 

 

XX1 and even X1 would be too expensive for me as I would have to replace my wheel set as well to get a hub that can fit the XD freehub, so all in all with X1 it would have cost me about 20k, no thanks.

 

 

So then saw the 1x10 and thought that would be perfect as its affordable and would rather play around there with the setup and see if I liked it.

 

 

I am not generally a super high cadence guy and have power to put down.

 

 

ANYWHO, yesterdays ride was great. Super smooth and simple... loved it...

 

After climbing a hill at the top you drop a few gears super easy and have good resistance to get your speed built up very fast and accellorate better than I normally could with 2x10 and with less massive change in gears (back to big front and dropping back a few gears).

 

I was able to keep up with the group on the flats using a slightly higher cadence, and would climb hills like a goat....

 

 

I always felt like the front shifting put a lot of strain on the bike and a huge jerk in general, which helps to stuff up your bb bearings in my opinion....

 

With the single chainring the power delivery is much better throughout and my pedal stroke much smoother throughout the ride...

 

As far as I am now, I can tell you for me it was totally worth it!!!

 

 

But here is the calculator I user, its definitely worth playing around with it and comparing... http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

 

Hope this helps someone...

 

For interest, some guys are running 1x7 in the XCE races so they can power down...

 

Also plenty of guys are running single speeds in the same races we all are running 2x10 or 1x10 or 3x10 or 3x9.... and finishing with greater or equal results...

 

So there is no right or wrong, if you have the power then do it... if you only riding granny gears only then not a good call for you....

 

For me, this is working....

 

my 2c.....

 

Kind Regards,

Tim

 

Awesome review. Thanks Tim.

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Don't waste your bucks on imported stuff. Two local is lekker companies now doing chain rings at good prices. Kitted.co.za and kalbo.co.za

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I was always in the front big chainring (38t) and would be forced to shift down when in the granny gears because otherwise chain would fall off anyways. On the flats I would spin out as well in a 38t...

Tim - your chain should not be dropping off the big ring when you go to the bigger cassette gears on a 2 x 10

 

This is an indication of incorrect chain line or something. If there are any spacer rings in your BB on the right hand side of the crank it may be a good idea to remove one of them, or shift it to the other side. Wondering if your frame is bent?

 

I can see how a 2 x 10 would feel restrictive if you actually only get the 5 or 6 smallest gears in the big ring and have to double shift front and rear every time you start and top out of a climb.

 

You were definitely not getting the full value out of your 2 x10. Anyway, glad you are happy with your 1 x 10 setup.

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Just ordered the FRM set from Evobikes.

 

42T rear and 34T for the front, should be awesome.

 

Going on a Trek Superfly DS, I did already upgrade the RD a while back to X0 Type 2.

 

Also thinking of getting a Wolftooth 16T, is it worth it?

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Just ordered the FRM set from Evobikes.

 

42T rear and 34T for the front, should be awesome.

 

Going on a Trek Superfly DS, I did already upgrade the RD a while back to X0 Type 2.

 

Also thinking of getting a Wolftooth 16T, is it worth it?

The 16 is a not essential, but it's more than a nice to have. Maybe more like an awesome to have.

 

Before the 16t, I always felt like I was just not in the right gear when changing to the 15t /17t (I tried both for a while). I also find I actually spend a lot of time riding the 16t in jhb, so having the smoother change in and out is nice.

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Just ordered the FRM set from Evobikes.

 

42T rear and 34T for the front, should be awesome.

 

Going on a Trek Superfly DS, I did already upgrade the RD a while back to X0 Type 2.

 

Also thinking of getting a Wolftooth 16T, is it worth it?

16t is Def worth it if your running shimano cassette. Taking 15 or 17 out disrupts the angles of the pickup teeth so you won't get crisp shifting thru 13-15-19 or 13-17-19. Putting the right 16t will get the pickup tooth angles right and make shifting thru this range nice and sharp again. Also shifting progression is more even with 16t. Try it without first.if you don't get sharp shifting or you find the gap too big then go for it.
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Hi there Hubbers,

 

There is alot of debate going around changing to a 1x10 groupset.

I am currently running a 3x10 and thinking of changing to a 1x10....

 

Is the conversion really worth it?

or should i just keep the 3x10.

 

Your help would be appreciated :)

yes, but 1x 11 even better. XO1 the bomb.
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So I did the whole 1x10 conversion and picked up my bike yesterday and rode my normal 40km Wednesday ride with the group.

 

My setup: 34t in front, and normal 11-36 in the back. Dont feel I need the extender gear as I hardly touched my granny (36t)...

 

It is very premature to give you a raving review then shoot myself in the foot, but here are my motivations for doing it and then also some reviews of the ride:

 

 

I had a 2x10 setup previously, and ended up breaking some gears off my cassette and then my front chainring within two rides of each other and needed to change my whole drive train anyways...

 

 

I was always in the front big chainring (38t) and would be forced to shift down when in the granny gears because otherwise chain would fall off anyways. On the flats I would spin out as well in a 38t...

 

 

Always felt like too many gears are doubled up, then played around on the calculators you get online to compare the various setups.

 

 

XX1 and even X1 would be too expensive for me as I would have to replace my wheel set as well to get a hub that can fit the XD freehub, so all in all with X1 it would have cost me about 20k, no thanks.

 

 

So then saw the 1x10 and thought that would be perfect as its affordable and would rather play around there with the setup and see if I liked it.

 

 

I am not generally a super high cadence guy and have power to put down.

 

 

ANYWHO, yesterdays ride was great. Super smooth and simple... loved it...

 

After climbing a hill at the top you drop a few gears super easy and have good resistance to get your speed built up very fast and accellorate better than I normally could with 2x10 and with less massive change in gears (back to big front and dropping back a few gears).

 

I was able to keep up with the group on the flats using a slightly higher cadence, and would climb hills like a goat....

 

 

I always felt like the front shifting put a lot of strain on the bike and a huge jerk in general, which helps to stuff up your bb bearings in my opinion....

 

With the single chainring the power delivery is much better throughout and my pedal stroke much smoother throughout the ride...

 

As far as I am now, I can tell you for me it was totally worth it!!!

 

 

But here is the calculator I user, its definitely worth playing around with it and comparing... http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

 

Hope this helps someone...

 

For interest, some guys are running 1x7 in the XCE races so they can power down...

 

Also plenty of guys are running single speeds in the same races we all are running 2x10 or 1x10 or 3x10 or 3x9.... and finishing with greater or equal results...

 

So there is no right or wrong, if you have the power then do it... if you only riding granny gears only then not a good call for you....

 

For me, this is working....

 

my 2c.....

 

Kind Regards,

Tim

 

Thanks Tim Great Review!

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It's soo much about your riding style, give it a try and decide. I have learned a couple of interesting things over the last couple of years.

 

1. Front Shifting is not very efficient, on my 3x8 I used to shift a lot between middle and big ring. I eventually changed my shifting style to cut down on the shifting, and no surprise saw some improvement. Must mention at this point that the 3x8 was brilliant for Tar (26" MTB). Big ring was a 44t, no problems pedaling at 60km/h and pushing beyond.

2. Built a 29er and decided on 2x10 which gave me a similar range as the 26er 3x8 (especially in the granny), only loosing a bit of top end (so 60km/h is a crazy cadence). Tend to stick to the big ring (38t) but love dropping to the granny (24t) on the steep stuff. I really struggled keeping up with my friends (on road bikes) with this gearing.

3. 3x8 was converted to a 1x8, was fun but broke me on some hills (34t at the front with 32t at the back). Was actually ideal for commuting.

4. 1x8 was finally converted to SS (26" with 34x18t) and is currently teaching me to stand and pedal. I also realized I'm stronger than I thought I am and applying what I learn on SS to my 2x10 bike (to some extent).

 

I honestly don't think that 1x11 is worth the cost (it is cool!). For the heavy guys (I'm around 93kg) the granny helps out a lot. I like 1x10 using Shimano Shadow+ (but will not use it on my primary bike), the extra cost and fiddly shifting with the 40t or 42t range extender at the back is too much of a hassle, I would rather just get a 30t or 32t on the front (and let gravity do its work of accelerating you on the downhills).

 

If money was no object I would get the Rohloff 14-speed internally geared hub and gates carbon drive. But I think this will be a lot more expensive than XX1 to buy (and outlast it by years).

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I converted to 1 x 10 a year back (34 front and 11/36 at back on 29 er), the only race I battled was Nottingham Road to Himeville 100 km on the tar roads, I was spinning out a bit on the tar roads, spins out around 45 km/h. With a 36 at the back, you an pretty much climb anything, if you can't you would be riding at a walking speed anyway (5 to 6 km/h).

 

The single chain ring in front really helps in muddy races, get far less problems with gear changes. I did Sani 2013 day 2 in mud with 2x10 and lost a lot of time from battling to change gears in front, just ended up leaving it on the small ring in front. My partner had 1x11 SRAM and had no problems with mud and gear changes, that is why I swopped over to 1x10.

 

If money was no object, I may try a 42 at the back and then put a 36 on the front.

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I paid R600 for my raceface 34T chainring, that was the total cost. Kept same chain length as i had. As long as you have a clutch rear dérailleur youll have no chain drops.

 

Came from a 2x slx setup, so its 10speed now with 11-36 at the back

 

I can do groenkloof and hakahana which have some hectic climbs so i dont see an issue if youre fit. I do spin out at about 40-45 kmph but for me thats not an issue

 

Ill never go back to 2x.

 

Worth it in what way, weight savings, i dropped approx. 300g from the bike

 

Simplicity forsure, and it looks alot cleaner

Yip , I wont go back to 2 x 10 . Really a good set up this 1 x 10 and not so expensive  .

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  • 2 weeks later...

1x10 is awesome for trail riding. XC you will run out of flatline speed. I ran 34T Raceface Narrow Wide with 36T on my 650B. Loads less wear and much cheaper to maintain, no chain guide required. Chain ring is 12 months old and teeth are still 100%, chained the chain once.

 

I ride 2x10 again on my 29er. 28/42 is the way to go for me. Makes you a stronger climber as well.

 

(XT Rear Derailer with clutch)

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Mine is done, FRM 34T front with 11-42T cassette at the back.

 

Really enjoying it, still get good speeds, love the silence of no chain touching the FD! Even though I have a Type 2 RD, the chain will always smack the FD. No more. 

 

And the handlebar is so clean!

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