marko35s Posted November 27, 2014 Share 30t!? Whaaaat!? I climbed to the mast on my reign x on a 34. Okay, I was dead afterwards, but I did it. Now on a 32 and I don't find myself shirt of revs. In fact I often find myself surprised that there's another gear. Buy to answer the OP. The only thing you really need is to remove your big and small rings and then either a chain guide or a narrow wide chain ring. Or both. Won't cost you more than a grand.So that's the downhill bit covered but how are you going up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayleyearth Posted November 28, 2014 Share Just put a 30 tooth in front. Don't change anything else.really. You don't need to buy anything else.shops just want to make money off you What wheen size are you running? 33"? Or are you riding out the Andes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowbee Posted November 28, 2014 Share I am confused You have two click clunks up or two click clunks down *zee germans vood be proud* to deal with on the front chain ring. Surely having 4 click clunks in your riding arsenal is a good thing. But really now, removing 4 clink cluncks is this making things more simple ? Maybe mountain bikers are just lazy. *change to the big front ring, more clunck than clink and pedal like heck* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyDan Posted November 28, 2014 Share Just go single speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patensie Posted November 28, 2014 Share Out of necessity I changed my 1988 15kg Diamondback Apex ridged to a 1x7 as the front shifter stopped working. I simply locked the front derailleur to the middle ring. It now functions as a chain guide. I think the gearing is 32/(12-32). The Diamondback is the "school bus" - star seat & 14kg toddler on top tube. I am not the strongest climber, but can make it to the top of most of the trails in Stellenbosch (Jonkershoek and Eden) on this bike (when I leave my laaitie at home...). Have to tell myself to HTFU at times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmptyB Posted November 28, 2014 Share Op, Firstly ride what drive train you have till it is broken then consider changing. Did my tail bike, or rather bikes as the drive train went onto a couple of bikes, as a 1x9 with a cheap deore 32t chainring and guide combined with a 34t cassette. This went onto 15.5kg 160mm travel bikes and a rider in his birthday suit coming in at 92kgs. It worked well enough on the trails, but for those rides with a steep and consistent gradient over long distances (think climbing table Mountain) it hurt a little. As per one of the other poster's, I was also riding a ss at the time, so you learn to ride in heavy gears. On fast descents I did certainly miss my big ring as I like big gears. Benefits with the chain guide was that I could clear big Rocky sections with more clearance with the big chain ring gone and the bash guard/taco ring saved the bike on the odd occasion from rock strikes to the bb or chain ring. Also never dropped a chain once with this set up. Personally for me a 34 chainring with a 36 rear or better yet a 40t would have proven ideal. The above on a 26er. The was also a time I did the 29er ht as a 42t with a 34t cassette. ....Things got a little heavy with that setup. Had a lighter 650b test bike for two weeks and this was a 32x34 setup and worked well......But this bike was a good 2.5kgs lighter than the 160mm bikes and better designed for climbing. A 40t would have made it with well, even with a 34 up front. My new trail bike is 13kg s and running a 3x9 as this is what the bike came with and the drive train is just about brand new, so will ride this into the ground first before considering a one by something upgrade. I do use the big 42t often on the fast see decents and love having it on tap. My ht is currently a one by nine and sites spin out at times. Was in a fancy bike shop on town the other day and the owner of the shop was pushing me to go one by something with the motivation that one by nine is not fashionable anymore and old technology. ......I scoffed at this and noted that I don't care about fashion. Would I go one by something on the duallie again....sure when my existing drive train dies. Until then if it is not broken then don't fix it. Good info. What is your new trail bike btw? I'm asking for me....not my sister Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falco Posted November 28, 2014 Share I think 1x10 and SS have more to do with novelty than real functionality. Most riders who have these bikes also have normally geared bikes. I'm currently building a 1x10 road bike, 36 up front and 23:11 at the back. My legs have no issue going uphill (on road) in a 36:23 combo. It has flat bars, flat pedals, just a basic jump on and ride bike. The reason I'm doing this is not because it''s better, or lighter, it's because it's different. If I enter races, I use my fully geared bike, if I want to slowly cruise the neighbourhood on a Saturday afternoon without having to get kitted out, I will use this one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DIPSLICK Posted November 28, 2014 Share You can do it in stages. First rip off the left shifter and the chainrings then add a narrow wide ring or chain guide as the others said. Second stage is adding a Hope 40T Trex sprocket to your cassette - works best with an 11-36. Get a 16t to smooth out the gears lower down. Cassette must be XT or above or it doesn't have loose 15 and 17. You now have an 11-40 instead of an 11-36. Better but still not as wide a range as 2x or 3x. 1x10 is fine for XCO and most XCM - I wouldn't take it to a stage race though. Well not a really hilly stage race anyway. It's all about range of gears. 3x10 obviously has the widest range and the most "safety" meaning you won't blow your legs out on one climb because your cadence is too low. Anyone who claims you can just HTFU and grind up stuff at 40rpm knows blow all about riding a bicycle. 1x10 has the narrowest range - you can HTFU up some shorter climbs in XCO and most XMC but try a 5km climb at <50rpm and you will destroy your legs in 30mins. Even short climbs that are too steep and you have to heave yourself over will erode your legs. A wise belgian man once told me you have infinite lungs but finite legs. The more you HTFU the more you erode your legs. Spinning does less damage. There are NO performance positives to reducing your range of gears - only asthetics. LUNGS TAKE MIN TO RECOVER LEGS TAKE DAYS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOEKVLAG Posted November 28, 2014 Share As with most other things it comes down to riding style and personal preference. I was fortunate enough to build up my dream bike earlier in the year and had to choose between the 2x... or 1x... setups. In the end I went with the 2x10 and I am really glad I did. I like bigger gears so I went with a 42/28 setup in front (11/36 at the back). What I like about this setup is that I can leave it in the 28 up front when I hit trails and flick it over to the 42 when on the "open" roads. This works well for me. In the end I'll ride whatever is on the bike (and enjoy it!), but if I have a choice I can't see myself with just 32 or 34 gears on the front - although I want to build up a SS sometime... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arendoog Posted November 28, 2014 Share I ride SS a lot and then 2x 10 .My 2 x10 has been so reliable that I don,t think I wiil change .I don,t like the cross chain idea on the big and small gears that much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBc Posted November 28, 2014 Share 2 factors: 1 - if you're a weight weenie and want to drop a couple of grams. This is probably a smallish factor. 2 - simplicity. Only rear shifting. Point 2 is appealing to me, and point 1 will get my ride in to probably around 10kg. It's a bit of a mute point though, cos I often ride with a couple of beers in my backpack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pipsqueak Posted November 28, 2014 Share Yes, it is worth it. If you get the right number of teeth front and back. It'll make you a stronger rider, and it'll save you R10 000 that you would spend being conned into a 1x11. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted November 28, 2014 Share Good info. What is your new trail bike btw? I'm asking for me....not my sister LOL, a little Rocky Mountain Altitude 26'er with 140mm travel all round ... soon / maybe to be running a 150 or 160mm fork. Tell you sister I said hi BTW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmptyB Posted November 28, 2014 Share LOL, a little Rocky Mountain Altitude 26'er with 140mm travel all round ... soon / maybe to be running a 150 or 160mm fork. Tell you sister I said hi BTW Hahaha....I will tell her Little Rocky mountain sounds like it could be a nifty machine. Lotta travel.....got my eye on the Trek Fuel ex 9.8. (29er) The write up on the 27.5 is super inviting too I might add. Very pricey but gives me wood !!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted November 28, 2014 Share Hahaha....I will tell her Little Rocky mountain sounds like it could be a nifty machine. Lotta travel.....got my eye on the Trek Fuel ex 9.8. (29er) The write up on the 27.5 is super inviting too I might add. Very pricey but gives me wood !!!!People might be put off by the Silverback name not being so glamorous .... but the Slider 1 is a flipping great handling bike and if you want you can also up the fork to a 150/160mm later on as I know they were testing the bike with this set up at one stage and I recon the frame can certainly make that fork length work. the 130mm travel version review here - https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/137733-silverback-slider-1-650b-review/ 2015 will have 135mm rear and 140mm fork - see the last page for a pic of the prototype I got to play with for a while. http://www.silverbacklab.com/bike/mountain/silverback-slider-1/ The slider is running a 1 x 11 at a good price too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Ruinaard Posted November 28, 2014 Share It's all about range of gears. 3x10 obviously has the widest range and the most "safety" meaning you won't blow your legs out on one climb because your cadence is too low. Anyone who claims you can just HTFU and grind up stuff at 40rpm knows blow all about riding a bicycle. 1x10 has the narrowest range - you can HTFU up some shorter climbs in XCO and most XMC but try a 5km climb at <50rpm and you will destroy your legs in 30mins. Even short climbs that are too steep and you have to heave yourself over will erode your legs. A wise belgian man once told me you have infinite lungs but finite legs. The more you HTFU the more you erode your legs. Spinning does less damage. There are NO performance positives to reducing your range of gears - only asthetics. LUNGS TAKE MIN TO RECOVER LEGS TAKE DAYS These lines sum it up the best i have seen. I have always wondered about this. Positive: the aesthetics But no performance benefit (which i suspected). You dont see the Pro Peleton going to 1 x 11 do you ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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