divernick Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 OK here we go, my 2 cents worth: Let's assume MTB ridden twice a week on the dirt in a mix of dusty, muddy conditions. For example 40-50km at Modderfontein or Van Gaalens. After ride:Wash bike with your choice of bike wash product.Allow to dry. Degrease and clean chain and cassette/RD pulley area (I like the CleanXtreme foaming one these days)Allow to dry.Lube chain with your choice of chain lube.Bike is now ready for the next ride. Tyre Sealant top-up: every 6 weeksSuspension fork lowers (wiper seals): as per manufacturer recommendations. I do mine every 3-4 monthsNew brake pads: Once a year or when necessaryBrake bleed: when necessary. After initial bleed on Shimano's I've never had to rebleed after 3 years of riding. I give my bike a "minor" service with every new chain, approx every 2000km:New chain: when wear exceeds 0.75% as per chain measuring deviceBrake piston clean and lubeSeatpost/frame re-greasing. Investigate any creaking or clicking.Remove crank and BB for a check, clean and re-lube. Replace BB if necessaryLube pedal springs I give my bike a "major" service every 3rd new chain:Suspension fork damper cartridge serviceNew Cassette and chainringsNew RD pulleysNew gear cables and outersNew headset bearings if necessaryCheck and replace/repack hub bearings if necessaryNew grips if necessaryRegrease Bar/Stem/Steerer interfaces I'll edit with anything I forgot later.
V12man Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 I have looked and don’t see a similar post, hopefully this one could be sticky. I want to build a list of things you need to service, fix and clean on a MTB and how often possibly also how. E.G it could be classified as below ina atble ( tried but cant import excell? Part Service every x km How to service Clean every x KM How to clean Issues + the fix Wait for said part to break/stop working properly - then fix.... Works out cheaper than fixing things that are not broken.... and breaking the odd good part too... Wash your bike when it is dirty and before doing maintenance on it - even if you think it is clean - so a minimum of about once a year should work....
V12man Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 OK here we go, my 2 cents worth: Let's assume MTB ridden twice a week on the dirt in a mix of dusty, muddy conditions. For example 40-50km at Modderfontein or Van Gaalens. After ride:Wash bike with your choice of bike wash product.Allow to dry. Degrease and clean chain and cassette/RD pulley area (I like the CleanXtreme foaming one these days)Allow to dry.Lube chain with your choice of chain lube.Bike is now ready for the next ride. Tyre Sealant top-up: every 6 weeksSuspension fork lowers (wiper seals): as per manufacturer recommendations. I do mine every 3-4 monthsNew brake pads: Once a year or when necessaryBrake bleed: when necessary. After initial bleed on Shimano's I've never had to rebleed after 3 years of riding. I give my bike a "minor" service with every new chain, approx every 2000km:New chain: when wear exceeds 0.75% as per chain measuring deviceBrake piston clean and lubeSeatpost/frame re-greasing. Investigate any creaking or clicking.Remove crank and BB for a check, clean and re-lube. Replace BB if necessaryLube pedal springs I give my bike a "major" service every 3rd new chain:Suspension fork damper cartridge serviceNew Cassette and chainringsNew RD pulleysNew gear cables and outersNew headset bearings if necessaryCheck and replace/repack hub bearings if necessaryNew grips if necessaryRegrease Bar/Stem/Steerer interfaces I'll edit with anything I forgot later.You forgot where you buy flowers for the wife for allowing you to do all this maintenance....
divernick Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 You forgot where you buy flowers for the wife for allowing you to do all this maintenance.... Not at the traffic lights - they never last.
V12man Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 Not at the traffic lights - they never last.Thanks - I have no experience - I never buy the wife flowers.... they make me sneeze... But she likes shiney things....
s14phoenix Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 I have been using wet lubes only for the last 8 years, and my chains typically last about 1300-1500km (meaures between .75 and 1.0 on ParkTool Chain Checker), and typically use 3 chains per cassette. I evaluate my chainrings by visual inspection, they usually last as long as two cassettes. If you apply wet lube correctly (wipe off excess), the "grinding paste" you refer to does not form. Besides, in extreme muddy conditions, the mud will stick to your drivetrain irrespective which lube you use. cool thanks i understand it much better now. The bike shop didn't really explain much just said yeah buy this and just squirt it over the chain. Less is more. WHEN YOU KNOW HOW TO USE IT wet lube can be just as effective - agree 100% Most people neglect washing cleaning and re-lubing their mountain goats for the pure reason "It is a Mountain Bike - it is supposed to be dirty..." - usually followed by - "my gears don't work so well..."
Davey_Jones Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 Thanks - I have no experience - I never buy the wife flowers.... they make me sneeze... But she likes shiney things....does she prefer 10 speed or 9 speed cassettes then?
droo Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 A few things I haven't seen yet - first, don't spray bearings or suspension seals with water. You'll drive water and gunk in there and they'll wear out in pretty short order. Clean your bike with a bucket, sponge and brushes and rise off gently. Second, the most important things to keep clean are fork and shock stanchions and drivetrain. This is where you'll save the most money. Read the sticky thread on chains and cassettes in the tech forum and learn how to keep an eye on chain wear with a ruler, not a chain checker. Re the torque wrench question - superbike clutches don't have M4 aluminium bolts or carbon tubes. On bicycles, the torque wrench is more about preventing overtightening than undertightening. The most important one is the small one for things like stem faceplates and binders, seat clamps, rotor bolts and anything that clamps onto or screws into carbon.
V12man Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 does she prefer 10 speed or 9 speed cassettes then?11... well - I do anyway... she on the other hand would not recognise a cassette.... or know what to do with it....
s14phoenix Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 A few things I haven't seen yet - first, don't spray bearings or suspension seals with water. You'll drive water and gunk in there and they'll wear out in pretty short order. Clean your bike with a bucket, sponge and brushes and rise off gently. Second, the most important things to keep clean are fork and shock stanchions and drivetrain. This is where you'll save the most money. Read the sticky thread on chains and cassettes in the tech forum and learn how to keep an eye on chain wear with a ruler, not a chain checker. Re the torque wrench question - superbike clutches don't have M4 aluminium bolts or carbon tubes. On bicycles, the torque wrench is more about preventing overtightening than undertightening. The most important one is the small one for things like stem faceplates and binders, seat clamps, rotor bolts and anything that clamps onto or screws into carbon. The high pressure washer comes to mind... why I NEVER hand in my bike at these "BIKEWASH" spots... "We carefully clean your bike" - ye right...Bucket and water.
Showtime Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 Torque values crucial on a headset ? Personally I just tighten until the play is gone but I see that headset manufacturers do specify a torque for the pre-load top cap bolt. I wouldn't say it's a reason to buy a torque wrench but somenone with no mechanical experience or understanding of the bearing preload could over tighten the top cap bolt or lock down the stem bolts without preloading. So in the broader sense the top cap bolt is one area where torque matters.
EmptyB Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 Geez, I need to go on a proper course to get most bike maintenance and repairs done properly. I suck at this....and I'm in the appliance repair industry. Will fix your fridge or washing machine but got two left hands with bikes!!
Wyatt Earp Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 Personally I just tighten until the play is gone but I see that headset manufacturers do specify a torque for the pre-load top cap bolt. I wouldn't say it's a reason to buy a torque wrench but somenone with no mechanical experience or understanding of the bearing preload could over tighten the top cap bolt or lock down the stem bolts without preloading. So in the broader sense the top cap bolt is one area where torque matters.Often that torque setting on the top cap is in place just so you don't damage the cap after you tightened the stem bolts.You are doing it right tightening to the point of eliminating play .
Odinson Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 Any comments on what to use as a type of polish after the wash? For that showroom shine.
floatfox Posted January 15, 2015 Posted January 15, 2015 Personally I just tighten until the play is gone but I see that headset manufacturers do specify a torque for the pre-load top cap bolt. I wouldn't say it's a reason to buy a torque wrench but somenone with no mechanical experience or understanding of the bearing preload could over tighten the top cap bolt or lock down the stem bolts without preloading. So in the broader sense the top cap bolt is one area where torque matters.Guys please dont underestimate the importance of a torque wrench. Overtightening any bolt can have severe consequences. Especially if you have any form of carbon fibre.Stems brake or crack if you dont follow torque settings, and they come loose. By using a torque wrench you ensure that both or all 4 bolts are equally tightened. This goes for alloy or carbon..
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