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killing a chainset in less than 1000 km


Cois

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This. It may also be an improperly seated quicklink, or a stiff pin. Quicklinks need to be properly fitted otherwise they WILL cause the chain to skip under power. 

Yeah Im going with this, had to replace my roadie chain a week ago because a link was not flexing properly. I found it by turning the crank by hand until I saw it causing the RD to bounce a little which caused a smaller contact area on the cassette. 

New chain and its smooth as butter again with no more slipping.

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I go through 2 or three chains before replacing cassette. Theres a way I check chains without any tools, a tip i got from an oldschool bike mechanic.

Gear up to your biggest ring infront (assuming you don't have a bashguard or something)

With the bike stationary ofcourse. Simply pinch the chain and try and tug on it.

See if you can pull the chain away from the ring. You have to do this in the 'front' part of the chaingring, somewhere near the middle. If you can pull the chain away from the ring even a little.

Its worn and stretched

 

like this

http://fcdn.roadbikereview.com/attachments/general-cycling-discussion/293676d1396054584-how-long-do-your-chainrings-last-img_0455.jpg

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cassettes and chainrings usually last much longer. unless you dont replace your chain often enough. then your sprocket teeth will look like that 'C' pattern we use to write in cursive in primary school. then its worn and needs replacing

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Thanks for the wealth of information.  Got a new powerlink as well today, just to make sure the powerlink is not worn.  But still going to replace the cassette.  Start new and see if the problem goes away.

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Thanks for the wealth of information.  Got a new powerlink as well today, just to make sure the powerlink is not worn.  But still going to replace the cassette.  Start new and see if the problem goes away.

 

If it doesn't and it's just a simple costless adjustment  :eek:

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You did not just bang the jockey against an object and bent the hanger? A drivetrain in less than 1000km? Far-fetched.

Shifting problems and gears slipping are often caused by a bent hanger. Quite often it's not bent enough to spot with the naked eye, but just enough to cause problems. Park tools has a nifty tool for checking and straigtening hangers.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-hanger-alignment

 

@ Op; Ask your LBS to use it to check your hanger before you spend more money. If they don't have the tool, perhaps its time for a better LBS.

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And your indexing is correct? Your pawls are clean and properly lubed? I always find this chain story so weird. My bikes have multiple 10 000s of kilometres, and I've not ever had to replace a chain or a cassette (nor am I particularly dedicated to cleaning or servicing them regularly). Someone is spinning you a fat yarn.

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Here is a very informative pdf as written by Johan Bornman.

 

I am clean & lube my chains regularly & I can't even think that my chains will ever last 7000km!

 

Which chain / cassette & lube combo are you guys using?

 

Don't use any sort of equipment to track km done, but surely nowhere near 7000km on a cassette.

 

I use a chain checker to measure wear & replace chains at 0.75

Chains - Everything you need to know about Bicycle Chains.pdf

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And your indexing is correct? Your pawls are clean and properly lubed? I always find this chain story so weird. My bikes have multiple 10 000s of kilometres, and I've not ever had to replace a chain or a cassette (nor am I particularly dedicated to cleaning or servicing them regularly). Someone is spinning you a fat yarn.

 

Someone or was it 'self diagnosis'?

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Replaced the cassette last night, wanted to do a commute this morning, but had to bring equipment to the office that does not do well in rain.

So will test it.

 

On the questions:

Indexing is right

Dérailleur is fine, not bent or loose.

Replaced the power link as well. So just need to go and test

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Here is a very informative pdf as written by Johan Bornman.

 

I am clean & lube my chains regularly & I can't even think that my chains will ever last 7000km!

 

Which chain / cassette & lube combo are you guys using?

 

Don't use any sort of equipment to track km done, but surely nowhere near 7000km on a cassette.

 

I use a chain checker to measure wear & replace chains at 0.75

 

Might want to remove the PDF. Since it's copyrighted in the book it's not really fair sharing it anymore.

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Im my limited experience with bike shops (I do all my own work on all my bikes), the first thing is always "your chain and cassette needs replacing". It like a default setting with most of them.

 

Road bike a cassette can last 1 year providing you change your chain frequently.

Depending on mileage (I do mine about every 3 months. Also clean and lube weekly.

 

Mountain bike a bit different, depending on how much mud/wet riding you do.

There again, replace chain regularly and the cassette will last longer. 

I got over 4000kms on the road out of my last chain.  It had stretched a bit but nothing serious and when I put the new one on, the rear cassette was fine.  Still using it after another 3000kms.

 

However, I am meticulous about cleaning and lubing chain regularly.

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Have one of those.  Chain measures fine with it, but chain is slipping gears when I lift my ass out of the saddle. 

New chain old cassette does that. Mine did the same on road bike. Took 2 month of riding the chain in and now 100%. Only on certain gears as well the worn ones. 

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Took the bike out this morning for my commute to the office.

0 problems with the bike.  Legs not so much.

Gear shifts was well within limits.  Just needed a little adjustment, but could do it on the go.

0 skipping or jumping from the gears.  So happy with that.  Things I swapped:

Chain, new cassette and new powerlink do daa.

 

Glad as commuting with a bike with unhappy gears was a huge pain in the arse

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