DubbelBuys

I bought a 650B in 3C EXO+ from my LBS at the end of December.

Can you please add a general search for "View All MTB Classifieds" as well as the rest of the categories respectively instead of "View All Classifieds". It takes more time to enter each section, Bikes, then frames, then components then wheels etc. I build bikes for a hobby or aren't always looking for only 1 specific item at a specific time. We buy items (Ie: Bargains) whenever it pops up. * Sorry if this has been discussed.

2020 Bronson

Any updates regarding this?

Revelation can fit a 2.35 Magic Mary.

The Rapide shims wrap around about the post about 90-95% (& I'm sure Lyne's & many other brands do as well). Don't see any ovalization happening when using those shims. I am using a Rapide shim on a KS dropper without any issue. On a side note: Never overtighten a seat clamp when using a dropper post. The sidewalls of the tubes are fairly thin to save weight. Over tightening the seat clamp will distort the dropper's sidewall & posts will perform sluggish or not fully extend. Always use a torque wrench to tighten the seat clamp. Range is around 5-7 Nm See manufacturer's specs.

Thanx, but I see the price is unchanged... Will check again during the morning.

Thanx CWC!

https://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/shimano-pd-gr500-pedals As well as the above, please.

https://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/hope-pro-4-rear-hub-32-hole-boost A good deal on this will be highly appreciated.

Is there an alternative synthetic motor oil that may be a substitute for the 5W Magnatec?

Does you HRM's strap have silicone 1 side? Edit: Someone just posted a bit faster what I've suggested.

Awesome deals right here guys!

http://www.double-distribution.com/nsb_schaltaugen.html Maybe it's these guys SwissVan was thinking about.

Post a pic of the hanger. Maybe it's not a MW propriety part. For other guys having a hard time to find hangers try this: https://www.aliexpress.com/popular/derailleur-hanger.html

Yes I applied the loctite to the outer race & a little bit inside the swingarm. Applied grease to the SPI bolt & inner race.

Serviced my brother's Shova a few weeks ago & the bearings fitted fairly loosely into the swingarm. Secured it with Loctite's Threadlock & it doesn't move or make a sound. Doubt the washers (that fits between the frame & the bearing) have worn out, but worth a shot to try & move the swingarm sideways at the SPI. If it does then it may either be the washers or the bearing (width) It may even be that the bearings are slightly narrower than the original bearing or that your bike's swingarm (where the bearings are fitted into) is machined (slightly) deeper than other Shovas. Also use a clean cloth as a tiny grain of sand can cause a creaking sound that'll drive you nuts trying to search through everything from BB to pedals! Keep us posted.

Is your shock bottoming out? If it does you may not realize how hard it's bottoming out & that may be the cause. What I recommend to be on the safe side of bottoming out: Deflate the shock & press it down until it bottoms out. Cut a piece of cable tie about 2 mm shorter than the shaft between the shock's seal & the travel indicator O-ring. Inflate the shock & set desired sag. hop around on your bike & land as hard as you can. Check the O-ring. It should never go beyond your cable tie's length. The large volume shocks have a much more linear stroke & may bottom out with less force than a shock with a smaller air can (inflated to the same psi / sag) The smaller air can ramps up much faster & won't bottom out that easy. If your bike's shock has the larger air can you can always insert spacers to prevent the shock from bottoming out. I can't imagine that a bolt snaps because the shock is inflated too high. 190psi for a shock isn't high at all. If you think about it: if the shock doesn't bottom out it shouldn't snap the bolt unless there's something else causing it. (or the bolt is made out of cheese) As mentioned before: Remove the shock, cycle the suspension & feel carefully for any 'binding' in the pivots. Is the frame is carbon or alu? It may even be misalignment if it's alu & because of a crash. (or manufacturer 'defect') I have rear of similar issues on some of the older Santa Cruz Bronson frames where the rear axle wears much faster than expected due to misalignment. Hope this helps. 90kg isn't anywhere near a Clydesdale, but if a Yeti can't handle a rider of 90kg then I'll recommend another brand

I have a brand new 1 like this. Send me a PM if you're interested

I also had this creak on my Saint pedals. Turned out to be the pedal axle on the crank.

Easiest way to be 100% sure is to do a fitment test. 1. Fit a 650B wheel (with big volume tyre) 2. Remove the shock (only 1 side should do the trick) 3. If enough tyre clearance in the rear triangle then proceed to next step 4. 'Compress' the rear suspension to where the shock will bottom out. (measure 'virtual' eye to eye length of the shock at full compression) If the tyre doesn't rub against the seatpost take it for a ride & decide whether that's the route you want to go or rather put the 26" wheel back.

PM sent.

Hi Dave. Do you know the RRP of the PF35 ? (the Pro model without the dials)

Hi Peach, Have you had the shock custom tuned or you running a M Comp / M Rebound?