Fork seal kits?

[Kerchak]

How much do they charge for a service?

R500 for labour plus parts which is another ~R500. Best you contact them for a proper qoute

[Skylark]

R500 for labour plus parts which is another ~R500. Best you contact them for a proper qoute

That's not bad, plus shipping each way though?

[AlanD]

Quick Question: are thise seals in enough? Ive been giving then a few knocks in and they dont seem to go further. Ive seen on videos they just use that took and push it in by hand.

[JXV]

Quick Question: are thise seals in enough? Ive been giving then a few knocks in and they dont seem to go further. Ive seen on videos they just use that took and push it in by hand.

Use a large socket....I think a 36mm works ok. press in using palm of hand on socket / driver. The outer lip should sit flush on top of the lowers (no gap).

 

They push in by hand with moderate pressure. Do not hammer them.

 

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[droo]

Quick Question: are thise seals in enough? Ive been giving then a few knocks in and they dont seem to go further. Ive seen on videos they just use that took and push it in by hand.

 

Yup, that looks pretty well seated to me.

 

Those are quite old seals though - if you're using 20W gold, make sure you check the packaging to make sure the seals are compatible. This will be indicated on the label of the packaging they came in.

[AlanD]

Finally finished, took longer than expected but I did it nice and slow.

 

So after getting all the parts I got going. Thanks Hubber Jaqkar for organizing the Fox GOLD 20w oil.

 

Took the fork off the bike and put it in the workstand and started to undo the lower nuts and take the lowers off. Took a few bangs with the rubber mallet on the socket attached to the nut on the damper side for it to come loose, oil started to drip out. did the other side and let it drip for a while and then got the lowers off:

 

 

The inspected the lowers and they were quite dirty:

 

 

The old seals and foam rings:

 

 

Cleaned the lowers and added the new (soaked in the oil) foam rings:

 

 

Then I put in the new seals and oil as per the Fox oil chart, put the lowers back on (this was tricky), put new crush washers and the nuts back on, put some air and cycled it through some strokes and all seemed well.

 

This was all in all not too bad but there are few tricky parts to this procedure where you need to be rather careful but super chuffed I managed to do this without an emergency trip to the LBS. The true test is when I go ride and all hold together.

 

Thanks everyone for the advice.

 

[Cogent Industries]

Sure they gonna feel great! Good jaaaaab!

[droo]

If the seals were that vrot, I'd suggest doing the damper as well before it eats itself...

[AlanD]

Now that I am a "master" at the fork service (lol), I am considering servicing my fox float x shock. I can get the seals at the same place I bought my fork seals.

 

Quick question: Do I need fox float fluid (the blue stuff) or will the 20wGold also work in the shock?

[Cogent Industries]

Now that I am a "master" at the fork service (lol), I am considering servicing my fox float x shock. I can get the seals at the same place I bought my fork seals.

 

Quick question: Do I need fox float fluid (the blue stuff) or will the 20wGold also work in the shock?

Float fluid

 

 

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[JXV]

Now that I am a "master" at the fork service (lol), I am considering servicing my fox float x shock. I can get the seals at the same place I bought my fork seals.

 

Quick question: Do I need fox float fluid (the blue stuff) or will the 20wGold also work in the shock?

The blue float fluid is a much thicker oil (approx 80 wt) than Gold which is 20wt. Rather stick with the blue stuff

 

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[droo]

Now that I am a "master" at the fork service (lol), I am considering servicing my fox float x shock. I can get the seals at the same place I bought my fork seals.

 

Quick question: Do I need fox float fluid (the blue stuff) or will the 20wGold also work in the shock?

 

If you're not doing the damper, don't bother with the air sleeve seals. They'll last you about as long as the damper oil. Clean out and relube the air sleeve in between services, but those seals will be fine.

 

20W Gold will be fine as a lube in there, Fox used it for a while from the factory. Float Fluid is better though.

[Mongooser]

If you're not doing the damper, don't bother with the air sleeve seals. They'll last you about as long as the damper oil. Clean out and relube the air sleeve in between services, but those seals will be fine.

 

20W Gold will be fine as a lube in there, Fox used it for a while from the factory. Float Fluid is better though.

Since you're the pro,is it normal for fox 40s that where serviced 4 months ago to ooze gunk and shock fluid onto the stanchions after heavy use?Someone said its self lubricating. New seals or just normal?

[droo]

Since you're the pro,is it normal for fox 40s that where serviced 4 months ago to ooze gunk and shock fluid onto the stanchions after heavy use?Someone said its self lubricating. New seals or just normal?

 

You may have got an older set of seals, which did leak a fair bit of oil. Post a photo so I can have a look at how much is coming out though - a certain amount is normal but I'm guessing from your comment that it's a bit more than it should be.

[AlanD]

If you're not doing the damper, don't bother with the air sleeve seals. They'll last you about as long as the damper oil. Clean out and relube the air sleeve in between services, but those seals will be fine.

 

20W Gold will be fine as a lube in there, Fox used it for a while from the factory. Float Fluid is better though.

Ok great, thanks. Probably due soon for a damper service.

[Skylark]

High quality synthetic ATF fluid also works well

Castrol synthetic Atf is R90 a bottle and works like a charm, used it on my revelation and Rp23 services.