converting 2x10 to 1x10

[rock]

who on earth bought a front shifter and derailleur??? well done man.

[Steven Knoetze (sk27)]

who on earth bought a front shifter and derailleur??? well done man.

 

The same guy bought a set of 26er wheels apparently...........

[Ryanpmb]

I use 1x10 with SRAM X7 which is the same derailleur as X9. The chain does come off if you ride hard enough, even with a narrow wide chain ring in the front, so I have a small chain guide on the top of the front chain ring. You don't need this with a clutch derailleur. With the chain coming off I did trash one rear derailleur, so this is not a problem you can ignore.

 

Kalbo.co.za sell the big cogs for the back, also the 16 tooth smaller cog. I have both and they work well. I used to think that the 40 tooth wasn't required, 36 was good enough. After changing I am very happy with it.

 

The Kalbo is 108 104 BCD in the front, so I had to change the spider on my SRAM front crank set.

 

The hassle of converting is not really worth it, however, once you have it working properly it is great. The set up works really well in mud, also I have a dropper seat post, so don't want too many levers in the front of the bike.

[Fisan]

If you not going or aiming to win races I really do not understand why one want compromise by going 1/10 or 1/11..... Does not matter how you look at it it stays a compromise....

 

If you try to argue for 1x10 on paper on TheHub, you can't win. There really isn't much sense in throwing away a siginicant (2x10) or massive (3x10) amount of gearing ratio's.

 

1x11 is a different story - heck, it's even more expensive than 2x10...

 

But 1x10, mhmmm, all I can say really is: you will only understand once you've done the conversion. It's a....a kind of feeling...

[DoubleJ]

Forgive me if question has been answered elsewhere. Would a 11/34 cassette work or should it be a 11/36 at the back? What I mean is would it be more difficult going from the 34 up to the 40 or 42 blade? I have an 11/34 on my 2x10 and was wondering if I should change my cassette if I wanted to go to 1x10.

 

Shot.

[Longbarn Killer]

Please educate me on this 1x thing. What are the benefits? My uneducated opinion tells me you save the weight of one chain ring and a shifter. Is that it?

 

Surely an extra 10 gears is worth more than a couple of grams saving.

[Martin PJ]

Please educate me on this 1x thing. What are the benefits? My uneducated opinion tells me you save the weight of one chain ring and a shifter. Is that it?

 

Surely an extra 10 gears is worth more than a couple of grams saving.

For me the main benefit is if it is really muddy the drivetrain works better, no front derailleur to clog up.

 

Other benefits are 1) one less lever up front, so more space for shock lock out and dropper seat post remotes, 2) less likely to drop chain because no front chain ring downshift.

 

Something to consider also is if you are building up a bike from scratch, which seems an attractive option these days, you spend a bit less on the group set if go 1x10.

 

The only downside for me is that you spin out at around 40 to 45 kays per hour. Not really a problem in a mountain bike race, but is if you go onto tar road for a while.

[phenning]

I did the 1x10 conversion last week:

 

X0 crank (104 BCD) ant put 32t narrow wide on

on the back I added a 42t ( bot should rather have gotten the 40) the B adjust screw of the X9 type 2 derailleur is just to short.

 

I also got a 16t out of an 9sp casset lying around and used it in stead of the 15t and 17t - with the latter i noticed a difficult shift. with the 16 it is seamless.

 

Start fresh with new chain and derailer and you will save yourself a lot of frustration

[JXV]

Please educate me on this 1x thing. What are the benefits? My uneducated opinion tells me you save the weight of one chain ring and a shifter. Is that it?

 

Surely an extra 10 gears is worth more than a couple of grams saving.

With current 10spd XT setup you save about 400g when converting 2x10 to 1x10.

 

In a 2x 10 system a lot of the ratios overlap. In fact, for a typical 26-38 front set-up on 2x10 it is only the 3 fastest and the 3 lowest gears that don't overlap.

 

When you change to a 1x10 with 42t cassette conversion and 32t or 34t front chainring you lose only the one fastest and 1 slowest ratio compared to 2x10 with 11-36 cassette.

 

If you are riding a lot of tar or a lot of extremely steep stuff this might bother you but for trail riding the reduced spread is still enough.

 

Your legs get stronger quite quickly when they lose the luxury of the lower gear ratio.

[Bobbo_SA]

I did the 1x10 conversion last week:

 

X0 crank (104 BCD) ant put 32t narrow wide on

on the back I added a 42t ( bot should rather have gotten the 40) the B adjust screw of the X9 type 2 derailleur is just to short.

 

I also got a 16t out of an 9sp casset lying around and used it in stead of the 15t and 17t - with the latter i noticed a difficult shift. with the 16 it is seamless.

 

Start fresh with new chain and derailer and you will save yourself a lot of frustration

 

I'll be keen on your "slightly used" 42 if you are going to sell it.

[Sukka]

http://www.kitted.co.za/

[sometime]

If you try to argue for 1x10 on paper on TheHub, you can't win. There really isn't much sense in throwing away a siginicant (2x10) or massive (3x10) amount of gearing ratio's.

 

1x11 is a different story - heck, it's even more expensive than 2x10...

 

But 1x10, mhmmm, all I can say really is: you will only understand once you've done the conversion. It's a....a kind of feeling...

Nope - riding a single speed is a "kind of feeling". A 1x10 is just another bike with less range and a big ratio gap where the 16T used to be.

 

Lastly front derailleur problems? Never had one in many years of competitive racing around the country in all weather conditions.

 

For the record I ran a 1x9 about 5+ years ago, and eventually figured out I was trying to answer a question no one was (or should be) asking, converted it to a single speed and bought a proper 2x10. If I want purity, simplicity, low maintenance and a 'feeling' I ride the SS. If I want to ride / race in any conditions, terrain, road surface, gradient then I ride 2x10 with no compromises or excuses needed.

[Ryanpmb]

Nope - riding a single speed is a "kind of feeling". A 1x10 is just another bike with less range and a big ratio gap where the 16T used to be.

 

Lastly front derailleur problems? Never had one in many years of competitive racing around the country in all weather conditions.

 

For the record I ran a 1x9 about 5+ years ago, and eventually figured out I was trying to answer a question no one was (or should be) asking, converted it to a single speed and bought a proper 2x10. If I want purity, simplicity, low maintenance and a 'feeling' I ride the SS. If I want to ride / race in any conditions, terrain, road surface, gradient then I ride 2x10 with no compromises or excuses needed.

Different strokes.

 

The OPs already indicated the decision to change has been made. His questions are specifically around the chainring requirements and understanding the 16T replacement...