rad006 Posted September 6, 2009 Share Is that an Amarula Coffee???Does it taste nice?How much do you put in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted September 6, 2009 Share No problem Swiss! Great to have more tips/experience with tubeless, we can always learn from others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountain_lion Posted September 6, 2009 Share How can I use a compressor to pump up my tubeless tires when using the thin valve? Get a presta to schrader adapter. http://www.nexternal.com/icycles/images/pvadapter.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassie Posted September 7, 2009 Share Here's one to consider... I fitted a standard Maxxi Crossmark (wirebead) via the Ghetto tubeless system... I'm re-using a 20inch tube as rimstrip...seems that the seating of the bead on a secondhand tube is not so good especially if you have cut it very close to the rim on the first occasion......I just cannot get the 100% seal on the rim...takes about two days to loose significant air pressure. But, yesterday went for 40km ride and pressure was OK...overnight went flat...how can that be? By the way, this is just an interrim fiddling around untill I can actually affort R1000 for 2 x proper UST tyres....(next month) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rad006 Posted September 7, 2009 Share Cassie for R900 including Postage I can get you kenda karma UST tyres.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudsimus Posted September 7, 2009 Share Your problem is the wirebead. You'll never get them to seal 100% Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndreZA Posted September 7, 2009 Share Can someone please explain to me why do you need to have the tyre sits inside the tube when doing this conversion but with the proper stuff the tyre does not touch the strip? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudsimus Posted September 7, 2009 Share All 3 my wheelsets is converted with 3M tape and a loose roadbike valve. The tyre seats directly on the rim. It doesnt loose any pressure. And non of the tyres is UST. All is normal kevlar bead tyres. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwissVan Posted September 7, 2009 Share Is that an Amarula Coffee???Does it taste nice?How much do you put in? Ja I like it....thats Amarula with cappuccino powdered cappuccino with amarula, depends on the occasion although usually a double tot satisfies my taste buds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNOSE_E Posted September 7, 2009 Share Some non tubless rims will have a tough time sealing with the tyre. UST or not. Thats why the strip is introduced, to make things that bit more tighter for the seal. If you have a rim that seals well without a strip, then your good to go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwissVan Posted September 7, 2009 Share Can someone please explain to me why do you need to have the tyre sits inside the tube when doing this conversion but with the proper stuff the tyre does not touch the strip? I think the tube overlap helps to close any air gaps between the tyre and rim before the tyre has been inflated / seated. In other words it makes it easier to inflate the tyre on some rims. I tried to inflate mine with my floor pump the first time but could not, used a bomb to seat the tyre first and then let the air out, put in sealant through the valve body (core removed) and then put the valve core back in and managed to inflate with the floor pump and soapy water application. My rear wheel did not work to well and was leaking thru the valve hole on the rim, which for some reason Stans did not seal. As i needed to go ride I put the tube back in again but will check the valve hole this weekend and try the installation again, this time with Doc Blue for a comparison with Stans in the front tyre. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwissVan Posted September 7, 2009 Share I see on the Stans instructions he says NOT to inflate with CO2, wonder why that is? Perhaps cause he's afraid dumb n dumber will feeze their fingers, or spray sealant in their eyes??Or becuase the CO2 has a negative effect on Stans sealant??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Help.Me. Posted September 7, 2009 Share Here's one to consider... I fitted a standard Maxxi Crossmark (wirebead) via the Ghetto tubeless system... I'm re-using a 20inch tube as rimstrip...seems that the seating of the bead on a secondhand tube is not so good especially if you have cut it very close to the rim on the first occasion......I just cannot get the 100% seal on the rim...takes about two days to loose significant air pressure. But' date=' yesterday went for 40km ride and pressure was OK...overnight went flat...how can that be? By the way, this is just an interrim fiddling around untill I can actually affort R1000 for 2 x proper UST tyres....(next month) [/quote'] Hi i am using maxxis monorail with this Ghetto tubeless system...and they are not that expensive and they work well with Stan's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowellingWulf Posted October 26, 2009 Share Here is "Ricky Bobby's sealant addition method" if you don't have BMX tubes with a removable core... Things you'll need:1) 1 small funnel - avaliable from Plasticland(?) in Woodmead @ R2.50 each. Use a plastic funnel so not to damage the rim/bead.2) Stan's sealant and the little red measuing cup3) 2 x tyre levers. Instructions:1) Pop tyre from rim with the two tyre levers - leave a gap of about 1.5-2.0 cm.2) Insert funnel - this might require some effort since the gap might not be big enough.3) add Stan's.4) Remove funnel & levers. If you are using UST tyres it will "jump" back into place. Refer the pictures for an illustration of what is meant above.Hope it helps/works!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trapper Posted October 29, 2009 Share I've taken the gamble about 3 weeks ago, and did the home job. (Mavic rims with Kenda tires). First tried the Insulation tape and loose valve... miserable failure, just could not get it to seal. Then did the front wheel only using 20" tube version. Used four bombs in the process, and ended going to the garage to use the pump (MUCH MUCH easier). It sealed OK but leaked all way round the rim. I pumped it hard (4bar) to make sure it seated OK, then dropped it to 1.2Bar(!!) and took a slow ride round the block going up and down the pavement. It burped once, but that was it. Came back, pumped to 2bar, and it stayed there. Next week did the rear tyre, same procedure. It appears that the riding with lower pressure causes the tyre and tube to seat better. It still lost some air, but I went mountain riding the next day, and had to pump it once after about 10km. Then it settled and did not loose any more air. I'm a full believer and promotor of the tubeless conversion - even though I'm using non UST tyres at this stage Did the Telkom night ride and 57km ride last week-end. Front pressure at 1.8bar, rear at 2.1. Not one punture, leak, But I did dent the one side of the rear rim in one place due to doing the BAD long downhill - with lots of rocks - at high speed. Now my question: I will have to remove the tyre to fix the dent in the rim. Is this insert now re-usable or will it retract too much into the rim when the tyre is deflated? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slow1 Posted October 30, 2009 Share Each time you remove the tire, fit a new tube.i gave up looking for those stupid valve 20" tubes.i just drilled the rims and now use the car valve 20" tube.Its been more than a year. filled up with sealant twice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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