the nerd Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 puh-lease...http://www.motorcycledaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/120408top.jpgMy mates lives in his studio. Low mileage one owner.
worriesnot Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 SLX Brakes are a hell of an improvement compared to what I am use to...front brakes feel like there is dirt on the pads...need to see what is going on because I haven't even been on the dirt yet http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-how-to-bed-in-disc-brake-pads-31337/ Go check this link.Not sure how much you know about disc brakes but I find this process essential when changing out pads, rotors or riding on a new bike. Agree with other's comments.Leave the shock in trail - if you're set up is done right you won't need anything else for normal riding. Descent is great for really rough riding and you'll figure out quickly how to flick that lever while on the bike. I also find Climb mode a bit awkward and Trail is fine if your set up is right.2x10 off-road is fine. I never go looking for a third chainring and generally pedal out at about 50km/h, which is probably a good thing come to think of it... Many happy miles! Few bikes come close to the Anthem once you hit the sweetspot with your set-up.
Tankman Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 ...the next question would be how much would it cost to fit a remote lever...R 8- 10 000 ...the fork is easy. Yes the fork is easy and wont cost that much! All you would need to convert the fork:Fox CTD remote lockout lever - R1499Remote Topcap Kit on fork -R355A cable and housingand some labour to put it all together. If you want to run the lever to the shock too, you would need the cable splitter too -R385 ... BUT ... you would would need a different shock, the stock shock cannot be fitted with a lockout ... and that is what is going to cost you.
eccc whippet Posted June 26, 2015 Author Posted June 26, 2015 Tomorrow is the big day...cant wait...need to put a little more pressure in the shock...the sag should only be 25 % not 50 % as is at the moment...must be why the shock bottomed out last night...something i noted...they say it is ideal to use max travel...make use of the full travel not just a portion while riding rough conditions. The rebound has 14 clicks from Min to max...will set it on 7 mid way to start... There is black lever with 3 settings will set that on 2 (middle)...according to the fox website...that is a fine tune when in trail mode. The setup of the suspension is the key to getting the best out of this bike so i am gona spend as time as i need to get it right. Got a few weeks to try get it right...if i do i am gona take on the h2h.
JXV Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 Tomorrow is the big day...cant wait...need to put a little more pressure in the shock...the sag should only be 25 % not 50 % as is at the moment...must be why the shock bottomed out last night...something i noted...they say it is ideal to use max travel...make use of the full travel not just a portion while riding rough conditions. The rebound has 14 clicks from Min to max...will set it on 7 mid way to start... There is black lever with 3 settings will set that on 2 (middle)...according to the fox website...that is a fine tune when in trail mode. The setup of the suspension is the key to getting the best out of this bike so i am gona spend as time as i need to get it right. Got a few weeks to try get it right...if i do i am gona take on the h2h.Read the Fox website on shock setup. There are 14 clicks on the rebound because the shock caters to a wide range of rider weights (shock pressures). For any given pressure (weight) only one or two settings will work properly. So set shock fully open (Descend) then set your sag correctly ( 20 to 25% ) to get the right pressure, then work out where you fit in the weight range from about 50kg to 110 kg. Fastest rebound (+) = about 50 kg. So if you are 80kg then 7 or 8 clicks is a good starting point. Weight = you plus kit plus water. Fine tune from there. Similar setup for Fox CTD forks but 15% sag = firm and 20% = plush
eccc whippet Posted June 27, 2015 Author Posted June 27, 2015 I weigh about 110 - 2 kg...depending of the hydration pack etc...weight is slowly coming down so it will require future adjustment...i hope to be in the nineties in the next couple of months...then i will be able to reach the shock lever without having to pull my gut in Big day today so excited I couldnt sleep...wondering if i should go do a quick 20 km ride before everyone wakes up. Going on a variety of rides today...first a beachfront cruise with my 6 year old daughter (most important ride of the day) ...she is very excited that she gets to ride with Dad and uncle Rory is joining us today. Then off for a jeep trail with a bit of single track ride to get the feel of the bike... Then off to giba this afternoon to try it out on the green route... then tomorrow morning off to giba again to ride the blue route at giba for the first time...never ridden the blue so it is gona be a new experience and on a new bike
JXV Posted June 27, 2015 Posted June 27, 2015 Enjoy. At 110 kg you should start with the rebound at 1 or two clicks from the slowest setting cos your shock pressure will be high
eccc whippet Posted June 27, 2015 Author Posted June 27, 2015 yip agreed...considering the max pressure of the shock is 300...i learnt this morning that a good starting point with shock pressure should be around your weight in lbs...as in my case around 230( maybe a little high)...which will allow for all the extra weight...hydration pack...tools...lunch...kitchen sink etc etc... The shock specialist at the bike shop...set it to 210 I sat on the bike...checked...25% on the dot...the fella also check the rebound settings and reset to stop the wheel lifting when he bounced it. I wanted to change my seat to the upright instead of the giant forward...5 minutes later my seat was fitted. All ready to go.
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted June 27, 2015 Posted June 27, 2015 Enjoy. At 110 kg you should start with the rebound at 1 or two clicks from the slowest setting cos your shock pressure will be highSorry dude, that's suuupeer *** advice. Isetech, please don't do that. It'll cause the fork to pack down under repeated hits as the fork won't be able to recover in time for the next one. Rebound and compression settings have NOTHING to do with weight. They control the speed at which the oil in the fork and shock pass through the different circuits and consequently the speed at which your fork will compress and rebound under a certain force. Air pressure is the only metric which is weight dependent. To get your ideal rebound and compression, start in the middle and work your way out until you're happy with the speed at which it compresses and rebounds. The more compression damping you have, the slower it will work through its travel and vice versa. The more rebound damping you have the slower the fork will rebound. Too much and it bogs down. Too little and it'll bro a pogo stick.
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted June 27, 2015 Posted June 27, 2015 P.S. I'm 105 and my rebound is normally 1/2 clicks off middle towards the faster side. Compression a little bit lower, depending on the fork or shock
Eddy Gordo Posted June 27, 2015 Posted June 27, 2015 Take the advice above you will see how easy it is to then tune your fork or shock
JXV Posted June 27, 2015 Posted June 27, 2015 Sorry dude, that's suuupeer *** advice. Isetech, please don't do that. It'll cause the fork to pack down under repeated hits as the fork won't be able to recover in time for the next one. Rebound and compression settings have NOTHING to do with weight. They control the speed at which the oil in the fork and shock pass through the different circuits and consequently the speed at which your fork will compress and rebound under a certain force. Air pressure is the only metric which is weight dependent. To get your ideal rebound and compression, start in the middle and work your way out until you're happy with the speed at which it compresses and rebounds. The more compression damping you have, the slower it will work through its travel and vice versa. The more rebound damping you have the slower the fork will rebound. Too much and it bogs down. Too little and it'll bro a pogo stick.Renaissance - You clearly misunderstand the dynamics of a bike shock..... Definitely the rebound is related to both rider weight and terrain. So you start with rider settings based predominantly on weight, then ride it and fine tune to the terrain. All the shock designers say this......It works as follows :1) The shock must sag somewhat to give a good ride. Most designers and most riders settle somewhere between 20% and 30 % for a shock. Fox says 20 to 25% for a CTD.....but the frame designers sometimes recommend different based on leverage ratios of their suspension designs.2) To support the rider's weight the spring needs to push less for light and more for heavy. This is determined by air pressure in an air shock.3) when the bike hits a bump, if the shock is working right it absorbs the hit and reduces the deflection that is transmitted to the rider's body. The absorption is done by a combination of spring (resistance force increasing with compression ) and compression damping (resistance proportional to speed of compression)4) When the ground falls away after the bump the shock extends. This extension is driven by the spring and damped by the rebound circuit ( in bike shocks this generally has a different hydraulic path to the compression damping circuit for better adjustability) Stronger spring (higher pressure) will make it rebound faster...... That's why Fox give you such a wide range of rebound settings. Its to accomodate the wide range of working pressures used by different riders. 5) Only two or three rebound settings will be right for any given shock pressure (quoted directly from a Fox design engineer in a published interview) so naturally the heavier riders with higher spring pressures should set their rebound on the SLOWER side of midpoint TO START WITH and then fine tune from there. Fox says this clearly in their CTD tuning guide...there is a table with suggested rebound settings based on shock pressure. All these recommendations are to give starting point close to your optimum and weight is an issue in addition to terrain. If you then ride more agressively or in terrain with faster hits (like roots) you'll finetune to a faster rebound....but this may feel horrible to a guy riding slowly or riding trail with slow wallowing bumps - he will likely settle for a slower rebound. If a 110 kg novice rider (115 kg with kit and hydration) sets his rebound in the middle to start - he will be further from the proper setting than if he starts with a pressure related setting like his shock manufacturer says he should. I was just summarising all this into practical settings that the OP could make without the long lecture above [emoji6]
JXV Posted June 27, 2015 Posted June 27, 2015 BTW I'm 88kg riding weight and my shock is way better with compression a click or two on the slower side of midway than anywhere else. I tried faster rebound but had problems with wallowing on undulating trail - also my back wheel was jacking my ass forward off small bumps - known sign of too fast rebound.
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted June 27, 2015 Posted June 27, 2015 Renaissance - You clearly misunderstand the dynamics of a bike shock..... Definitely the rebound is related to both rider weight and terrain. So you start with rider settings based predominantly on weight, then ride it and fine tune to the terrain. All the shock designers say this......It works as follows :1) The shock must sag somewhat to give a good ride. Most designers and most riders settle somewhere between 20% and 30 % for a shock. Fox says 20 to 25% for a CTD.....but the frame designers sometimes recommend different based on leverage ratios of their suspension designs.2) To support the rider's weight the spring needs to push less for light and more for heavy. This is determined by air pressure in an air shock.3) when the bike hits a bump, if the shock is working right it absorbs the hit and reduces the deflection that is transmitted to the rider's body. The absorption is done by a combination of spring (resistance force increasing with compression ) and compression damping (resistance proportional to speed of compression)4) When the ground falls away after the bump the shock extends. This extension is driven by the spring and damped by the rebound circuit ( in bike shocks this generally has a different hydraulic path to the compression damping circuit for better adjustability) Stronger spring (higher pressure) will make it rebound faster...... That's why Fox give you such a wide range of rebound settings. Its to accomodate the wide range of working pressures used by different riders. 5) Only two or three rebound settings will be right for any given shock pressure (quoted directly from a Fox design engineer in a published interview) so naturally the heavier riders with higher spring pressures should set their rebound on the SLOWER side of midpoint TO START WITH and then fine tune from there. Fox says this clearly in their CTD tuning guide...there is a table with suggested rebound settings based on shock pressure. All these recommendations are to give starting point close to your optimum and weight is an issue in addition to terrain. If you then ride more agressively or in terrain with faster hits (like roots) you'll finetune to a faster rebound....but this may feel horrible to a guy riding slowly or riding trail with slow wallowing bumps - he will likely settle for a slower rebound. If a 110 kg novice rider (115 kg with kit and hydration) sets his rebound in the middle to start - he will be further from the proper setting than if he starts with a pressure related setting like his shock manufacturer says he should. I was just summarising all this into practical settings that the OP could make without the long lecture above [emoji6]Nope. You're partly right,but mostly wrong. But I don't have the time to correct you here... You set a shock with air to your weight (setting sag) and the rebound and compression damping system according to how you want it to behave. You don't ser rebound and compression according to your weight or the pressure in the air chamber
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted June 27, 2015 Posted June 27, 2015 Anyway. Your original assertion that he needs to set his rebound slower cos he's heavier and has more air pressure than someone half his weight is just plain wrong
JXV Posted June 27, 2015 Posted June 27, 2015 Nope. You're partly right,but mostly wrong. But I don't have the time to correct you here... You set a shock with air to your weight (setting sag) and the rebound and compression damping system according to how you want it to behave. You don't ser rebound and compression according to your weight or the pressure in the air chamberWe'll have to agree to disagree. All my training in physics and as an engineer combined with 20 years of mtb and the documentation from the OP's shock manufacturer all agree and make sense to me. Cannot reconcile your assertion that rebound settings, which essentially consist of an adjustable "valve" that varies resistance to oil flow, are independent of airspring forces that drive this oil flow when the fork/shock is unloaded after a hit. On the compression stroke its different because here the driving force for oil flow is more complex and a lot of modern shocks have both high and low speed compression circuits Also confused that as a heavier rider, you are happy with much faster rebound settings. What shock /forks are you using? Maybe your (or my) shock/fork is faulty - causing our preferred settings to diverge - or we just like a different ride feel
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