BrandonF_ Posted October 10, 2015 Author Posted October 10, 2015 How exactly are you determining that your chain is shot? Chains must be replaced when they wear out. Wear is caused by friction due to no or little lube or grinding in dirt. Chains don't stretch. My 2c Google the Sheldon brown article on chains and lubeI use a Birzman chain checker. Im a fair weather rider, and wont go play in the mud,...learned my lesson long ago. My cassette, chain and chainring gets scrub with Prepsol after every 3rd ride (Im pedantic). I wont lube over old lube and after the chain is thoroughly cleaned, I'll apply more than enough lube, work it into the chain with my hand, wipe the excess and let it stand overnight. Its a passion, so its proper I'll be trying different brands, cos I think thats where the problem lies...Also heard good things about KMC chains
Baracuda Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 11 speed chains do apparently wear the fastest of all the chains, all other things being equal, less pin and roller surface to spread the load/wear so they wear quicker. 1x9 for the win! They need to be thinner, so are probably weaker than an equivalent 1X8 or single speed chain. I ride mine until it starts hopping and that takes quite a while. In terms of reducing costs, one of the best pieces of advice I got is to user lower-end chains, cassettes and chainrings. The Deore, SLX or basic SRAM or KMC stuff is made out of good robust metal, not high end lightweight but soft stuff. The difference to the overall weight of your bike is negligible, you can't really feel the effect on shifting, but they last far longer, cost a fraction and are as strong as. Keep the top end derailler etc though
Rocket-Boy Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 They need to be thinner, so are probably weaker than an equivalent 1X8 or single speed chain. I ride mine until it starts hopping and that takes quite a while. In terms of reducing costs, one of the best pieces of advice I got is to user lower-end chains, cassettes and chainrings. The Deore, SLX or basic SRAM or KMC stuff is made out of good robust metal, not high end lightweight but soft stuff. The difference to the overall weight of your bike is negligible, you can't really feel the effect on shifting, but they last far longer, cost a fraction and are as strong as. Keep the top end derailler etc thoughA 105 11spd road chain would probably be a better bet than the XT one, its definitely a tougher chain.
WIPEOUT 1000 Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 They need to be thinner, so are probably weaker than an equivalent 1X8 or single speed chain. I ride mine until it starts hopping and that takes quite a while. In terms of reducing costs, one of the best pieces of advice I got is to user lower-end chains, cassettes and chainrings. The Deore, SLX or basic SRAM or KMC stuff is made out of good robust metal, not high end lightweight but soft stuff. The difference to the overall weight of your bike is negligible, you can't really feel the effect on shifting, but they last far longer, cost a fraction and are as strong as. Keep the top end derailler etc though Contrary to popular belief, all other things being equal, thinner chains are in fact stronger. The wider the chain, the higher the bending moment the pin can exert for the same force applied.
WIPEOUT 1000 Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 Chain longevity is primarily determenied by riding conditions and although I normally get 1000's of km's out of a chain on my road bike on my mountain bike I have destroyed many chains in a single rides. Reality is that if the mud/dust gets inbetween the pins and the rollers it takes very little time to destroy the chain. I.e. keep your drive train dry and clean/ wipe it down it ASAP after every ride.
Malpiet Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 11spd is thinner and will wear out quicker than a 10spd. Just double check your cluster that all your gears are fine. I also find that using poly TFE works like a charm, only problem its such a mission to apply and depending on the conditions your right calve (driveside) tends to pick up grease.
Capricorn Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 Contrary to popular belief, all other things being equal, thinner chains are in fact stronger. The wider the chain, the higher the bending moment the pin can exert for the same force applied. i'm dof. explain this bending moment thingy
_im_from_earth Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 6 - 8 weeks out of any chain with a wide-range + narrow wide 1X setup is pretty normal. Clean your chain well and regularly, use good lube, and replace the suckers to save your chainrings and cassettes. Its the price of simplicity.
Sidmouth Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 I average 1000Km on a MTB chain and about 3000km om a road bike, the chain is the cheapest part of the drive chain, once it is worn it wears everything else, so i change them regularly, I normally order the cheapest 11 speed chain from CRC, as both my bikes are 11 Speed around R220.00 a chain.http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/za/en/shimano-105-5800-hg600-11-speed-road-chain/rp-prod116487
Paul Ruinaard Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 How exactly are you determining that your chain is shot? Chains must be replaced when they wear out. Wear is caused by friction due to no or little lube or grinding in dirt. Chains don't stretch. My 2c Google the Sheldon brown article on chains and lubeUm, Hate to tell you mate , but, chains do stretch. And that is how you determine whether they are worn or not - by using a meter to measure distance between a sample set of links. Thats why if you change them early enough they don't eat your sprockets and clusters.
Firozfx Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 Um, Hate to tell you mate , but, chains do stretch. And that is how you determine whether they are worn or not - by using a meter to measure distance between a sample set of links. Thats why if you change them early enough they don't eat your sprockets and clusters.Mmm. The "Stretch" is actually the wear between the pins and bushings. The linear tensile strength with circular pins spread the stresses over the link. It is impossible for the links to be elongated since the yield strenghts of the steels that chains are made off is far higher than any pro cyclist can put through a chain. Plenty info on the net from those that know. Also plenty of junk that tells otherwise.
Guest notmyname Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 My cassette, chain and chainring gets scrub with Prepsol after every 3rd ride (Im pedantic).I do this after every ride. I've also read and adhered to the ruler method of checking chain wear. The industry wants to burn your pocket.
WrightJnr Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 I've done well over 1000km on my XT 11 speed chain. 11-42 cassette and 34T Wolftooth NW chainring. Like NEW still.
_im_from_earth Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 Mmm. The "Stretch" is actually the wear between the pins and bushings. The linear tensile strength with circular pins spread the stresses over the link. It is impossible for the links to be elongated since the yield strenghts of the steels that chains are made off is far higher than any pro cyclist can put through a chain. Plenty info on the net from those that know. Also plenty of junk that tells otherwise. You'll be surprised. Take a chain thats done 3000+ km vs a new chain of the same model and across its length there will be a visual difference in length.
johanpre44 Posted October 10, 2015 Posted October 10, 2015 Interesting that your chains are wearing so quick. I have 2 MTBs, one is running Shimano 2x10 SLX/Deore Drive train, first chain (KMC) lasted for about 2000km (with which I was impressed), it was replaced with an SRAM (because I could not find a KMC when it was worn out). My Other bike is a cheap 3x8, and those chains lasted about 1500km, but recently (since changing to a single 34t chain ring at the front) they do not seem to last too long (got about 200km out of my last cheap Shimano chain). I have also been playing with the chain line a bit and I think I've made it worse... Out of interest, what is your chainline? I would assume that the XT 11x1 would have a good chainline, but suspect that a "right-in-the-middle" of the cassette chainline should be the least amount of wear (since the strong riders can actually apply a lot of power regardless of the gear).
BrandonF_ Posted October 10, 2015 Author Posted October 10, 2015 I've done well over 1000km on my XT 11 speed chain. 11-42 cassette and 34T Wolftooth NW chainring. Like NEW still.I wonder if terrain, ito flattish vs very hilly with regular short steep power climbs will influence chain life, seeing that you run less gears, you place more force on the chain than for e.g. spinning up a steep hill with a 24/36 ratio...Im also running 34 upfront with 11-42,..only speculating, not sure if theres any truth in that, but logic tells me its possible.. What is your area like?
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