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Weeping tyre


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Posted

Got a puncture at hill2hill...plugged and bombed it...the plug is not leaking however the rest of the tyre seems to be weeping...every time i want to ride the bike i have to pump.

 

Is this normal?

 

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Posted

This is very normal for non-snakeskin. The solution is to immediately remove all non-snakeskins and throw them in the rubbish bin and replace them with tyres that has some sidewall strength.

Posted

Got a puncture at hill2hill...plugged and bombed it...the plug is not leaking however the rest of the tyre seems to be weeping...every time i want to ride the bike i have to pump.

 

Is this normal?

 

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1444851344.078617.jpg

Fairly normal. I have same problem with Spez tyres. Two issues at play here:

 

Most sealants are latex based. The sealant includes ammonia to prevent the latex congealing until it leaks through a puncture and encounters ammonia free air on the outside.

 

Your bomb uses carbon dioxide which apparently reacts with the ammonia in the sealant......so then the sealant partially congeals inside the tyre and no longer seals so well.

 

Even without a bomb, the sealant ages and has to be topped up or replaced every 3 to 6 months.

 

Now we come to the tyres. ' 'Tubeless ready' tyres are those that 'can' be set up tubeless with sealant but are really designed for use with a tube. Sidewalls are thin and get more porous with use due to flexing. The sealant takes care of this....until it is used up or gets old. Every time you pump or bomb the tyre you introduce fresh air / gas which congeals some of the sealant.

 

many manufacturers now have tyre versions with tougher better sealed sidewalls - Schwalbe snakeskin, Specialized Grid etc. So replace with these when the time comes but don't throw your existing tyres away yet....just put fresh sealant in every time they start to go soft between rides.

 

You might eventually end up with a big ball of congealed sealant in the tyre... remove and just keep using the tyres till they done....then get better ones.

 

[emoji1] [emoji1]

Posted

Two issues here.

 

Most sealants are latex based. The sealant includes ammonia to prevent the latex congealing until it leaks through a puncture and encounters ammonia free air on the outside.

 

Your bomb uses carbon dioxide which apparently reacts with the ammonia in the sealant......so then the sealant partially congeals inside the tyre and no longer seals so well.

 

Even without a bomb, the sealant ages and has to be topped up or replaced every 3 to 6 months.

 

Now we come to the tyres. ' 'Tubeless ready' tyres are those that 'can' be set up tubeless with sealant but are really designed for use with a tube. Sidewalls are thin and get more porous with use due to flexing. The sealant takes care of this....until it is used up or gets old. Every time you pump or bomb the tyre you introduce fresh air / gas which congeals some of the sealant.

 

many manufacturers now have tyre versions with tougher better sealed sidewalls - Schwalbe snakeskin, Specialized Grid etc. So replace with these when the time comes but don't throw your existing tyres away yet....just put fresh sealant in every time they start to go soft between rides.

 

You might eventually end up with a big ball of congealed sealant in the tyre... remove and just keep using the tyres till they done....then get better ones.

 

[emoji1] [emoji1]

 

Good advice!

Posted

Well I just pulled off my 2015 Nobby Nic Snake Skin which was nowhere near done. the tyre kept getting these dark spots on and between the block on the top like it was sweating. but not losing pressure really...

 

Then the last 3 or 4 times I went out on the bike I got about 5 or 6 holes which had to be plugged because the stans wouldn't set until it had all completely evacuated through the hole.

 

Note this was not due to thorns or glass or any foreign sharp objects either. Like the tyre is VROT!

 

The tyre is R650  worth of scrap now and I refitted my old Hans Dampf SS which has had no punctures EVER and about 5 rides later over the same terrain as before still has no punctures - I will deal with the drag till I try some WTBs

 

I think the 2015 versions of Schwalbe tyres has problems because I have had plenty others before this 2015 version which was "NEW AND IMPROVED!"

 

Maybe just a dud...

Posted

Yeah, just keep topping up with a non ammonia based latex sealant, like the white one from Ryder. It'll eventually coat the sidewall with a "skin", which will allow less of this weeping...

Posted

it seems schwalbe do various levels of off road tyres and you need to take note of the little blocks.

 

evo

tlr

snakeskin

star compound 

 

or you just get a P if you buy a giant you get a

P - performance only

if you buy a scott you get a

P - performance line dual compound. 

 

I can only assume this helps reduce cost.

 

if a tyres doesnt have TLR - tubeless ready in a block ...is it tubeless ready?

Posted

Now that all the 'burn them' guys have given their advice just a question, how long ago was the conversion done?

when i purchased the bike 4 months ago...and done about 300 km max...need to check on strava...every ride is recorded...why do i record everything on the strava...to keep record of my progress and to keep record for services...warranty repairs...how long my tyre last...how much riding on the tar...off road...etc etc.

Posted

when i purchased the bike 4 months ago...and done about 300 km max...need to check on strava...every ride is recorded...why do i record everything on the strava...to keep record of my progress and to keep record for services...warranty repairs...how long my tyre last...how much riding on the tar...off road...etc etc.

 

Unless you have money to 'burn' I would take the 'top up both sealant and air every now and then' option, that would be my advice and what I would do anyway.

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